An African Odyssey: Johannesburg, Victoria Falls, Tracking the Big 5, and exploring Cape Town

I began my journey in Johannesburg, which most people overlook. But to explore the country’s history of racial segregation and oppression under the apartheid system, you must visit the Apartheid Museum.

I continued the day in Johannesburg with a drive through Soweto, where I saw flashy cars and grand mansions that looked down over the still-standing shanty towns. Our drive stopped on the famous Vilakazi Street, once home to two Nobel Peace Prize laureates - Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu.

The next day was a 1-hour flight to Livingston, Zambia, where immigration took as long as the flight. As we approached the Royal Livingston Hotel, a luxurious oasis situated on the banks of the Zambezi River and just a few feet from the thundering splendor of Victoria Falls, I was struck by its stately colonial-style architecture, its manicured grounds and gardens and the roar of the Falls. The hotel’s private footpath will lead you to the edge of the Falls, where you can get sprayed with the cascading water’s mist.

Rita Carton

The next day I took a helicopter ride over the Falls, which was a breathtaking experience. Within moments of taking off, the Falls come into view. The sheer scale, the thunderous sound and the ever-present rainbow-hued mist left me awestruck. It is a privileged perspective to see the natural majesty of the Falls from the air.

After the helicopter ride, I went back to the hotel to change and get on rain gear for the walk to and along the Falls. A dry bridge connecting Zambia and Zimbabwe at the Falls has three feet of the bridge that used to be called “No Man’s Land” as that section of the bridge was regarded as a neutral zone not under the full control of either country. Today, the bridge is now under the joint administration of the Zambian and Zimbabwean immigration and customs authorities. Travelers crossing the bridge are required to go through proper border control procedures on both sides, but the overall process has become streamlined and predictable for tourists.

The day continued with a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River that lasted two ½ hours as hippos and crocodiles greeted us. Light African snacks were served, leaving room for a delicious dinner back at the hotel.

The next day I flew to Botswana for the first Safari at Savuti Camp in the region of Chobe National Park. Upon entering the camp, I was overwhelmed by the 40 Zebra at the watering hole, almost in reach from the dining room. I was hooked!! I spent three amazing days watching large herds of elephants migrate in search of water and grazing. I also discovered leopards, impalas, hyenas, beautiful birds, and all the wildlife you hope to see in Africa, except for lions.

Next, I flew to Chief’s camp in the Okavango Delta, where I spotted four of the big five (no rhino yet) as well as the elusive and endangered wild dogs. I could have sat watching the lions play with their cubs for hours. Even the Hyena clubs, a rare sighting as they usually stay in their den, were adorable.

From Botswana, it was time to fly to South Africa for 2 different camps. Lions Sands, I finally saw the Big Five and one night stayed in an open-air tree-house, which was about a 10-minute drive from the main camp. What an experience to hear the animals all night talking to one another. Just a little bit frightening, but we had walkie-talkies to communicate back to the camp. I also had made contact before leaving the US with an elementary school where I got to visit and interact with the children, of course, bringing them candy, pencils and paper.

Off to Cape Town to end our trip, a stunning coastal city nestled between the iconic Table Mountain and the Atlantic Ocean. Take the scenic cableway to the summit of the mount and you’ll be treated to a panoramic vista. I explored in the next few days the wine country — Stellenbosch, Franschhoek — the waterfront, penguin colonies at Boulders Beach, Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden and Robben’s Island for a tour where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 of the 27 years he spent in captivity.

As I was leaving on the plane home to LA, I had tears in my eyes not wanting this trip to end. I visited Africa again (Kenya and Tanzania — look for that trip report) to see more of this fascinating country.

Booking an adventure like this will leave you in awe of the country and the hospitality of the staff at the safari camps and the African people in general. Every detail can be curated, and your guides will be attentive to your needs and ensure your trip is truly special.

Overall, an African safari can be a transformative experience that fosters a greater understanding of the natural world, inspires a commitment to conservation and leaves a lasting impact on the lives of those who undertake this remarkable journey.

You will eat well at the Safari camps and be prepared to get up very early before sun-rise as you will catch the wildlife waking up also.

This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Africa. In need of further inspiration? Check out Katherine Fisher’s guide, South Africa's Secret Wine Country.