2022: A Swiss Odyssey

Lauterbrunnen was a phenomenal home base to explore the Jungfrau region of Bernese Oberland. It is exquisitely stunning and the rail access allows you to explore the entire area. We opted for a multi-day Jungfrau Travel Pass to hyper-focus on this area. We definitely got our money’s worth with the pass. A word of caution: pay attention to when the last train or gondola is for the day. Even with the sun setting after 9 p.m., some trains and gondolas stop as early as 5 p.m.. A week in Lauterbrunnen wasn't enough time, and we barely scratched the surface. In hindsight, I wish we stayed longer.

The Jungfrau Travel Pass offers flexibility to explore the Bernese Oberland.
great day. Take the time to get off at stops and walk to another one. For example, get off at Allmend and walk to Wengen. If you do this, stop and enjoy a drink or bite to eat in Allmend at the Bergrestaurant Allmend. Don’t worry about being unable to find it —- it is the only structure in Allmend and immediately adjacent to the rail stop. Ask for a table outside and enjoy the views overlooking Wengen. It was a bit chilly when we were there, and the owner graciously brought us sheepskin covers for the metal chairs so we could enjoy sitting outside for lunch. The views will not disappoint, and everyone will love the food. We all voted that this was a must-do experience.

Take the time to go to Gimmelwald. It isn’t on the Jungfrau Travel Pass, so we walked from Mürren to Gimmelwald. The views are the most spectacular you will ever see. Gimmelwald is sometimes called Switzerland’s best-kept secret as there is nothing touristy about it, and many visitors don’t go. When you get to town, follow the signs to the Mountain Hostel and ask for a table outside. The pizza is scrumptious and one of the most epic panoramic views you can see. The walk from Mürren to Gimmelwald is downhill and can be easily accomplished in about half an hour by everyone in your party. We opted to buy the gondola pass to return to Mürren as my 75-year-old father-in-law didn’t want to walk back uphill. Reasonable.

Walk from Mürren to Winteregg to Grutschalp. At Winteregg, there is a restaurant called Bergrestaurant Winteregg, which has another panoramic outside venue. I wouldn’t recommend eating a meal here, but perhaps enjoying a beer. Once you leave Winteregg and start walking to Grutschalp, you will see a self-serve refrigerator on the right-hand side. Standard in the area, farmers will stock it with fresh cheese, yogurt, and milk, and you pay for it through the honor system. My teenage daughters and I purchased fresh yogurt and found a bench overlooking the Alps to sit and enjoy. It was to die for —- sitting in silence with the only sounds of the cowbells from the cows grazing on the high meadow. If you choose to experience this, make sure you have Swiss francs for the farmer’s jar.

If you are interested in paragliding, my family went with Airtime Paragliding. Although the company is based out of Lauterbrunnen, where we stayed, my husband and daughters opted to meet the guides in Mürren using their Jungfrau Travel Pass instead of riding in a van. Several years later, they are still raving about the experience, and the photos from the company’s GoPro are incredible. Keep in mind that the return to Mürren from Stechelberg, where the paragliders land, is not on the Jungfrau Travel Pass and is an additional cost. After our rendezvous with the adventure seekers, we ate lunch outside at Hotel Alpenruh. I highly recommend ordering the Berner Rosti. After walking through Mürren, find the Hotel Bellevue and sit on their deck for happy hour.

Grindelwald First has many exciting adventure activities; you could spend an entire day here. We learned the hard way about the last gondola times and closing activities when we arrived late in the afternoon. Don’t make the same mistake we did—go early! It looked phenomenal.

Favorite town? This was debated over many beers on many panoramic decks. It is like asking who is a better player: Michael Jordan, Kobe Bryant, or Lebron James — they are all great athletes and towns. My family voted for Wengen. They loved the town, and it was here we stumbled upon a music festival and found ourselves dancing on the tables with locals to the Nostalgic Brass Ban. If you find yourself in Wengen, eat at Ristorante Da Sina - Wengen BE, and of course, ask for a table outside.

I highly recommend a Swiss Odyssey for your next family European vacation.

This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Switzerland. In need of further inspiration? Check out Phelipe Cardoso Sekai’s guide, 72 Perfect Hours in Zürich, Switzerland.