Having grown up in Genoa, Nevada (population: 1,013), I thought I had seen it all: bears, the crystal-clear waters of Lake Tahoe, its rugged snow-capped peaks. The Sierras are gorgeous any time of year. But I’d grown accustomed to their beauty — that is, until a recent stay at Edgewood.
I was familiar with Edgewood Tahoe, the only luxury property directly on the lake. Former classmates were married there; family friends had many a girls’ getaway there; my parents frequently drove the 29 minutes up Kingsbury Grade for date night. But I had yet to experience its magic. So when the hotel invited my mom and me to stay while I was home for the holidays, I didn't have to think twice.
Day 1: Welcome to the villa
We arrived in the evening. A few centimeters of snow covered the trees, which were strung with warm holiday lights. A towering Christmas tree decorated with oversized ornaments sat in the lobby, where roaring fires warmed couples and families curled up on plush chairs and sofas. The vibe was very alpine-cozy-chic. We were greeted with iced Champagne and whisked away to our accommodations: a sprawling two-bedroom villa.
Many hotels have villas. But not many have villas like Edgewood’s. For one, the villas are actually close to the main lodge (which is quite rare for hotels). Each one is modern and cozy; they look like they’d be at home in a mountain edition of Architectural Digest: chic red doors and exterior detailing, dark wooden floors, a floating (and illuminated!) staircase, towering ceilings, super-tall door frames and a fireplace (even entry-level rooms come with fireplaces).
The welcome basket fit the luxe vibe. My mom loved the Rustic Bakery lemon shortbread cookies and Nevada-shaped toffee. And we must not forget the S’mores Kit, which came equipped with bark-handled pokers, vegan vanilla marshmallows, graham crackers and squares of Belgian milk chocolate. This amenity was especially apt, considering that each villa, ours included, comes with a private outdoor hot tub (and dedicated towels; no need to reuse the ones from the bathroom) and outdoor firepit.
And I still cannot get over the primary bathroom. The giant soaking tub came with a wooden bowl of natural salts and a bath menu, should you wish to deck out your soak even further. The toilet, too, is worth mentioning: the heated seat was a godsend (it was winter, after all), and it had all the bells and whistles you’d expect from a fancy Japanese toilet brand.
We settled in, ordered room service and cozied up to watch a compilation of old Saturday Night Live holiday sketches — fire ablaze, wine (also part of the welcome kit) in hand.
Day 2: Gondolas, massages & ice skating
The next morning I hit the refreshingly well-equipped gym — no basement and poor lighting here. Instead, you can train with a view of the lake, courtesy of the giant windows throughout the property. If you’ve never done a Matt Wilpers power zone ride while overlooking Lake Tahoe, you must. It makes the pain a bit more bearable.
Back at the villa, a basket of fresh pastries — chocolate-chip muffins, Danishes, croissants — decorated with berries and flowers awaited. Every villa (spoiler alert) is treated to this delightful surprise on the first morning of your stay. Should you want something a bit heartier, breakfast at Edgewood is epic. You’ll dine in the Bistro, the main lobby restaurant, where windows frame more unbeatable lake views. Even the tea service was divine, which is no surprise, considering how much thought went into choosing their official tea partner, The Art of Tea. (Get the peppermint.)
Head up the mountain
After breakfast, we got to play tourist. One of Edgewood’s biggest perks is its proximity to Heavenly Ski Resort and its sleek courtesy shuttle. In fact, you can even get on the mountain using fewer steps than many ski-in / ski-out properties. (And do those ski-in / ski-out properties have views of the lake? I think not.) And if you’ve ever skied Lake Tahoe, you know how atrocious parking can be. You do not want to have to worry about parking, and not everyone has a dad like mine, who happily drops you off at the lift before braving the parking warzone himself. We weren’t skiing, but if we did want to ski, the hotel makes it blissfully easy.
Villa guests get free in-room gear fittings from the property’s ski butlers. Edgewood even has a dedicated ski concierge named Ron. Ron used to run Heavenly’s ski school, and really knows the terrain. If you’re traveling with three kids of three different ages, for instance, where to begin? Ron will tell you; he’s essentially on speed dial.
And even if, like us, you weren’t planning on skiing, you must take a gondola ride up the mountain. A thick layer of fog covered the lake that day, and the gondola took us over the clouds. We stopped at the observation deck and marveled at the cloud-covered lake surrounded by those famous snowy peaks. It was quiet. The air was still. The sky was a brilliant blue. The last time I took the gondola was over a decade ago. I couldn’t believe it had been that long.
Chill at the spa
To get back to the hotel, you need only dial the number etched on your wooden room key. The shuttle arrives promptly. That afternoon, my mom and I had scheduled massages. The spa is, fittingly, heavenly. Clean beauty brands — Naturopathica, Éminence, Natura Bissé — lined the walls of the spa boutique and are frequently used in the treatments themselves. The spa waiting area is one of the best I’ve seen. Plush chaise lounges come with the softest wool blankets. Wrap yourself up in one as you hit the candy bar (yes, really) and load up on sweet classics — Kisses, Jolly Ranchers, Jelly Beans — and peanut-butter-filled pretzels. And for the more disciplined among us, there’s also a plate of fresh veggies.
The Edgewood signature massage is tailored to your body and preference. Liz, my masseuse, had this grounding, soothing energy that immediately put me at ease. During the treatment, her movements were so fluid and masterful it felt as if multiple people were at work.
Savor a cozy gourmet dinner
Our massages put us in the perfect relaxed mood for dinner, which was at the Bistro again. In the evening, the lighting dims, and the vibe is elevated. Our server, Korina, was incredible. She was kind and witty — and very informed on the menu. She heeded all my weirdly hyper-specific questions with good humor and well-studied precision. The menu changes frequently (Edgewood sources everything within a 300-mile radius), but if the crispy brussels sprouts are available, get them. Judging from the Bistro, easily among the top five restaurants in South Lake, I can’t wait until their main restaurant, which is being remodeled and rebranded as The Edge, opens this year.
After dinner, it was time to ice skate. Edgewood puts up its own rink each winter. Holiday music plays; lights twinkle overhead; you’re surrounded by snow-covered pine trees. Thankfully, the hotel supplies these adorable support whales so you can hold yourself up as you glide around the rink. I relied heavily on these whale friends, which saved me from severely injuring myself. In many ways, I got to be a kid again, if only for a couple nights.
Most vacations are about tuning out. But at Edgewood, they help you tune in. I haven’t felt more connected to my home in a long time — not least because of the impeccable staff (truly some of the friendliest, warmest people I’ve ever met) and magical location. Edgewood helped lift my veil of habituation. It allowed me to once again feel awe — and a renewed sense of gratitude — for the place I am so lucky to call home.