24 Hours in Napoli... With Kids!

The hotel scene in Naples is changing rapidly, with Rocco Forte opening a luxury hotel in 2027 and Marriott arriving with the first W in the South of Italy in 2024, but while the new players come in, there are a few icons that continue to thrive.

For a traditional hotel stay, book a room at the Vesuvio or the Santa Lucia, two old-fashioned icons of the city, located just across the Castel Dell’Ovo. If you’re looking for a unique place, check out Casa D’Anna ai Cristallini. Located in the heart of the Quartiere Sanità, a former city slum now flourishing as one of the most lively and trendy neighborhoods in town, Casa D’Anna is a luxury B&B with just five rooms, all furnished to the highest standards and decorated with artworks by local and international artists.

Beat the crowd and kick off the day with a visit to the underground city of Napoli Sotterranea in Piazza San Gaetano. Under the surface of the Historic Center of Napoli, there’s another city complete with aqueducts, air raid shelters, catacombs, secret chambers and even a vegetable garden that is a great adventure for kids of all ages and a good opportunity to teach them about the history of the city in a fun and entertaining way. The visit is always guided and there are excellent tour guides for families.

Re-emerging from the underground, explore San Gregorio Armeno, the alley where the Neapolitan presepe, the Christmas nativity scene, was born. While looking at the statues of saints and football players, including a winged Maradona, don’t miss the sight of the Church of San Gregorio Armeno and Santa Patrizia, where the blood of the saint liquifies multiple times during the year.

At the end of San Gregorio Armeno, on Via San Biagio dei Librai, there’s possibly one of the most incredible sights for children of all ages: l’Ospedale delle Bambole, the dolls’ hospital. The owner, the daughter of the founder, is running this historical place where thousands of dolls, stuffed animals and toys are kept and repaired. The guided tour is magical and beautiful, and the children can bring a broken doll to get it fixed, along with a certificate certifying the health of it.

It’s time to eat and try the original Neapolitan ragù: head to Tandem in Via Paladino — reservations are highly recommended — and choose the pasta shape you prefer along with either ragu or Genovese sauce.

After lunch, walk to Via Duomo at the intersection with Via Forcella and admire the murals of San Gennaro by Jorit. Next to it stands the Church of San Giorgio Maggiore, where there’s one of the best kept secrets of Naples: look for the guardian of the church and ask to view the hidden painting behind the altar. You will be surprised!

Stop at the Museo Madre for a glimpse into the world of contemporary Neapolitan and international art. For dinner, head to the Quartiere Sanità and look no further than Concettina ai tre Santi: This pizza place was founded decades ago, but in the past five years, with the takeover of Ciro, the latest generation, this place became a Mecca for people from all over the world. Splurge on the tasting menu — but get a margherita for the kids — and pair it with champagne for a great dinner in the heart of Napoli!