A Foodie’s Guide to Milos (Μήλος)

Welcome to what is about to be a breathtakingly beautiful (and delicious) few days in Milos! Once you’ve arrived and your rental car has been secured, head out to drop off your luggage at your lodging. I recommend starting your visit by staying in the lovely hilltop town of Plaka, as the sunsets from this town cannot be beaten. Check into the Eight Infinity Suites, which has two beautiful apartment-style lodging options right on the cliff face next to the historic Church of Panagia Korfiatissa (where all of the Instagram sunset photos you’ve seen were taken). From Eight Infinity Suites, you can have the same unbelievable view all to yourself, along with a bottle of local white wine (which they have ready for you on arrival). They even have a dedicated parking spot for their guests, which is difficult to find in the small town of Plaka.

Once settled, head out into the town to explore its darling shops and bars. Utopia Caffe has great cocktails with beautiful views when you need something refreshing. After enjoying the sunset from your own terrace at Eight Infinity Suites, head to Archontoula for a lively dinner scene and classic Greek cuisine (reservations are strongly recommended). If you didn’t splurge on dessert at Archontoula, walk across the lane to Cafe Palaios, which has a fabulous array of everything sweet or caffeinated (but is most well known for its mille-feuille).

One of the best aspects about Milos is that everything feels laid back, and other than dinner reservations and catamarans, nothing needs to be decided in advance. This is particularly important for beaches such as Sarakiniko, as visiting relies heavily on calm wind and waves. I recommend taking the first opportunity the weather allows and heading over to the unbelievable lunar-esque landscape that is Sarakiniko. The walk down to the water from the parking area is somewhat gravelly at points, so water shoes (or sturdier shoes than flip-flops) are recommended. On days when the wind and waves are mild, Sarakiniko can get quite busy, so arriving by mid-morning provides the best experience with fewer crowds.

After diving into the beautiful turquoise waters at Sarakiniko, your appetite will lead you to your next stop just a few kilometers away. Medusa Milos is set in the quaint, postcard-perfect village of Mandrakia. This beachfront restaurant is a great way to relax and rejuvenate over a lunch of local seafood and dishes. The mastelo (grilled cow’s cheese with honey) and grilled, sun-cured octopus are some of their most well-known, and most enjoyed dishes.

After lunch, enjoy some downtime back at Eight Infinity Suites before enjoying another picturesque sunset on the terrace. For your second dinner in Plaka, reserve in advance at Avli-Milos and try their renowned shrimp saganaki.

No trip to Milos is complete without a sailing adventure to Kleftiko. Only accessible by water, there are multiple tour companies from both Adamantas and Pollonia you can choose from (but most should be booked well in advance online). I highly recommend Polco Sailing’s Round of Milos & Poliegos Catamaran Cruise, which sails the full circuit around Milos over the course of the entire day, with stops to swim at Kleftiko, Tsigrado, Gerakas, and Poliegos, in addition to a fantastic lunch spread on board. While Polco does provide snorkels and fins, I personally recommend bringing your own to Greece in general (if you can sacrifice the space in your luggage).

If you can muster up the energy to dine out after returning in the evening from your Kleftiko cruise, head over to Mavros Xoiros for your last evening meal in Plaka.

Now that you’ve properly experienced the lovely town of Plaka, it’s time to head to the western side of the island to get a taste of Pollonia. After a leisurely start to your morning, stop off at Kivotos ton Gefseon for some coffee and pastries such as portokalopita (orange cake). They have a fabulous array of jarred, locally produced delicacies that are perfect to bring back as gifts, such as local capers, honey, jams, and, most importantly, koufeto (more on this soon).

After taking your caffeine and pastries at Kivotos, continue to your next lodging at Tania Milos. This beautiful seaside accommodation has lovely rooms, an amazing location, and tremendous staff (I recommend staying in their Deluxe room No. 8 if available during your dates).

Once you’ve relinquished your luggage to the lovely staff at Tania Milos, set back out for the Papafragas Caves. Note that the gated parking lot labeled Papafragas isn’t the best access to the beach (though it is the safest parking). For those more adventurous, continue another 500ft farther down the road until you see cars parked along both sides. This is the easiest walking entrance to the tiny beach, where you can swim and explore the various caves.

After returning to enjoy the sunset from your patio at Tania Milos, make the 10-minute walk to the heart of Pollonia to explore the lively shops and dining scene. Make reservations in advance at the family-run Enalion, which is one of my favorite restaurants on the entire island. Definitely try one of their house specialties, the Fish “Plaki” (Psari Plaki), which is a hearty local white fish filet cooked with tomatoes, onions, potatoes, and garlic. Save room for dessert, as Enalion makes their own koufeto served over yogurt, a local delicacy. Koufeto consists of candied white pumpkin pieces and whole almonds cured in a sugar syrup and is a fabulous, lighter way to round out a filling meal at Enalion.

On your last full day in Milos, take the time to enjoy the breakfast spread at Tania Milos. Mary is known to be the culinary mastermind behind the gorgeous daily spread, which should not be missed. Once satiated, set off for the south side of the island to Fyriplaka Beach (as with all beaches in Milos, make sure to bring your own towels). This beach has lovely white sand set amongst huge, unusually formed red cliffs. If by this point in the trip, you’re missing the beach beds and umbrellas more commonly found in Mykonos, head over to the Aqua Loca Beach Bar set in the beautiful Artemis Seaside Resort. For €20, you can reserve a bed and umbrella with elevated food and beverage service.

After your leisurely day at whichever beach you choose, enjoy one last sunset at Tania Milos before walking to your reservations at Yialos (also referred to as Gialos) along the pier in Pollonia. This culinary hot spot is one of the most popular dining spots in Pollonia and is a fitting way to round out your food travels through Milos.