Exploring Budapest: Food, Sites and Spas

Let's start with a couple of the key tourist sites.

The parliament building is a neo-gothic masterpiece built in the early 1900s. The tour of the building is conducted by an audio guide and takes you through the key rooms of the magnificent structure. Booking in advance is recommended, especially in high season.

Castle Hill on the opposite side of the river has a variety of sites, including the newly renovated St. Stephen's Room. Exploring Castle Hill can take at least several hours, but there are ample opportunities to take breaks at cafés and restaurants nearby. A nice way to get to Castle Hill is to walk across the Danube on the Chain Bridge and take the funicular up the hill. Or, it is not too difficult to take a walk up the stairs and ramps to the top.

While on Castle Hill, visiting the Hungarian National Gallery is a must for art lovers. The collection focuses on Hungarian artists and features some little known, but truly outstanding works particularly by painters active during the late 19th and early 20th centuries

If you have an interest in architecture, seek out the work of Ödön Lechner, a true master of Art Noveau design. His Postal Savings Bank Building is a few blocks from Parliament.

Be sure to walk around nearby streets to seek out angles to get views of the remarkable rooftop. Many of his other designs are scattered around Budapest. And if you are on a Danube Cruise that stops in Bratislava Slovakia seeking out his Blue Church is worthwhile.

The Opera House is a stunning building and worth a guided tour, which is available throughout most days. If you have time to attend the opera, it is world class and last minute seats often become available even if the production says it is sold out -- check at the box office.

Spas

Budapest is justifiably famous for its spas and hot springs. The two most popular are the Gellért and the Széchenyi.

The Gellért is absolutely breathtaking, with beautiful pools both indoors and out. But I suggest getting there early, by 10:00 am at the latest, otherwise the crowds of bathers make it much less enjoyable.

The Széchenyi is much larger, with three huge outdoor pools and a wide variety of indoor baths at various temperatures. Széchnenyi also gets crowded, so weekdays and mornings are best.

Another option is the Palatinus Baths on Margarit Island. Easily reached by tram and bus, these baths are extremely popular with locals in the summer when it turns into a beach-like play park. In the off season, you are likely to be nearly alone in the indoor and outdoor hot pools, making it a perfect place to relax and refresh.

All of the spas are reasonably priced and tickets are available on-line in advance to avoid the queue at the ticket booths. If you can, bring your own towel. You can purchase one at the spas, but there are no towel rentals. If you want to swim in the main pools a bathing cap is absolutely required. And flip-flops or water shoes are also mandatory for walking around the facilities.

Day trips

Pécs is a couple hours by train from Budapest and has very interesting art museums, a UNESCO World Heritage site in its ancient Roman cemetery, and beautiful central square in which to hang out on a sunny afternoon.

CAFÉS

The most famous café in Budapest is probably the New York Café, which reopened recently after a meticulous refurbishment. Be prepared, there is often a wait unless you choose to stay at the Anantara Hotel in the same building which can enable you to cut the line. The room, the food and the entertainment are all top notch.

Some other cafés offer similar outstanding experiences, often without the wait. The Centrál Cafe has been a literary gathering place since its opening in 1897. Wait staff will recite poetry for you (in both Hungarian and English) and the goulash soup is superb.

Even older is the Gerbeaud Café, started in 1858. Delicious cakes and pastries in a calm and elegant setting make it well worth a visit.

On the Castle Hill side is the oldest of all, the Ruszwurm, operating continuously since 1827. Warm and friendly service and delightful pastries.

You can also seek out Buda Rétesvár (down an alley near the Ruszwurm) for a take out Rétes (Hungarian Strudal). Perhaps the best in the city.

BAKERIES AND COFFEE SHOPS

Artizen Café near the parliament nearly always has a line, but it moves quickly and their baked goods and breads are outstanding.

If you happen to be near the West Train Station (Nyugati Palyaudvar) Läget Pékség has some of the best bread in town.

Near the Opera, the 9BAR is a great place for coffee and pastries. And close to Astoria Metro, Fekete is a relaxing place for a break.

RESTAURANTS

A couple of classic Hungarian places: Frici Papa often has a line to get in and has typical dishes of goulash and other stews. The food is excellent but the service can be a bit brusque. A few blocks away the friendly and old-fashioned feeling Karcsi restaurant serves similar Hungarian classics. It is cash only, so be prepared with a few Forints. A third option in the Hungarian food category, and slightly more upscale, is Café Kör near the cathedral.

Mazel Tov serves well prepared Middle Eastern and Mediterranean dishes with fast and friendly service. Hummasbar nearby has bargain prices and great food in a fast food type setting.

Also in the neighborhood is Ghettó Gulyás for updated Hungarian classics. Reservations are essential for dinner.

And for fine dining, I can recommend Stand25 Bistro near the Castle district. World class food and service. The same chefs also run Stand near the Opera, where a fixed price tasting menu is available. Dérnyé, also in the Castle district, is another fine dining place worth a visit.