Curator’s statement
Lyon is the second largest city in France but is much more approachable and easy to navigate than its larger sister, Paris. The city sits on two rivers, the Rhône and the Saône, and has both car and pedestrian bridges up and down the embankment connecting both sides. The proximity to the riverside adds to the charm of this medieval and bustling city. It’s very easy to navigate by foot but you can also rent Velo’v city bikes as a fun and easy way to get around. Because it's home to 10 Universities the city is young and energetic which you can really feel as you walk through neighborhoods and experience life as a Lyonian. Although Paris is lauded for its food, Lyon is actually where a lot of French cooking gets its roots. It is largely considered the gastronomic capital of France and was home to Paul Bocuse, one of France’s most prominent chefs known for innovative cuisine. As previously mentioned, it’s not an overly large city but has 21 restaurants with Michelin stars and many more on the Michelin guide. In short: it’s basically impossible to get a bad meal here! Make sure to try Quenelles while you're there - which is a sausage shaped dough of fish covered in a delicious creamy red sauce. It sounds weird but trust me, it’s delicious!
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Where to stay in Lyon, France
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Things to do in Lyon, France
Lyon as a whole is charming but one particular neighborhood to explore is Vieux (Old) Lyon where the streets are too small for cars and the architecture dates back to medieval times and the Renaissance. One particular architectural feat this area is famous for are traboules, or covered passageways, that connect buildings throughout the town. These were created as a way for textile workers to move throughout the city without having to expose their garments to the elements. The city is still well known for making beautiful silks and other fabrics. One thing that we loved was learning that these passageways were actually used for secret meetings during WWII which helped prevent the Nazis from occupying all of Lyon. This website shows you an interactive map where you can find these passageways, which is a great way to spend an afternoon.
Lyon is still famous for its textiles and the most coveted accessory is a hand printed silk scarf. You can find these chic garments all over the city in souvenior shops but for a more authentic experience head over to Atelier De Soierie where you get a tour of their silk printing process. You can watch them hand press their scarves with gorgeous prints and hear more details about the quality materials they use in these keepsakes. Then of course head upstairs to find one to take home!
Another great way to spend a few hours is at one of Lyon’s famous markets. For farmers market fair, head to the Marché Alimentaire Victor Augagneur on the bank of the Saone. Strolling through you can find fresh produce, artisanal cheese, flowers, olives and admire the meat stalls and rotisserie chicken spits. It’s the perfect activity for Sunday morning because most restaurants are closed in the afternoon / evening so you might want to stock up on some food to make at home later.
For a more upscale experience, Les Halles de Lyon - Paul Bocuse, is a covered market and has incredible goods and food stalls and restaurants. You can find insanely delicious cheese, meats and pates for a cheese board, sample praline pastries which Lyon is famous for or enjoy some oysters and white wine. Pro Tip: Head over on Monday morning (we were there around 11 am) and you'll have the place to yourself. It's never too early for oysters!
And of course, we can't talk about France without mentioning the wine! A short drive outside of Lyon is Les Côtes du Rhône, which specializes in Syrah. As an aside, each region of France is typically characterized by one - two wine varieties. For example, Burgundy is only Chardonnay and Pinot Noir whereas Les Côtes du Rhône is mostly Syrah, as mentioned. To put it into perspective, Burgundy is 12,194 square miles compared to Napa’s 789. In a place that is over 15x the size of Napa, this one region only produces two types of grapes and makes each bottle taste incredibly different. The reason that a wine is not just called “Syrah” from Côtes du Rhône, is that what goes in the bottle is defined down to the plot of land that this particular grape comes from, which is typically the bottle's namesake. So you can be tasting Syrah grapes from the same vineyard but one bottle comes from a plot that gets more sun exposure than the other, giving it a characteristically different taste. To say that the French take wine making seriously is an understatement. There is so much care and precision and honestly pride that goes into producing these wines that it’s hard not to become a bit of a wine snob as you’re tasting their masterpieces. Definitely make time to explore this wine country, which we can help to coordinate!
Places to eat & drink in Lyon, France
Le Bouchon des Cordeliers - A bouchon is a type of restaurant found in Lyon that serves traditional Lyonnaise cuisine, such as sausages, coq-au-vin, "salade lyonnaise" duck pâté or roast pork. This restaurant is a classic with an upscale twist. Make sure to snag a reservation
Sapna - An Asian fusion restaurant in the trendy 1st ARR neighborhood with inventive cocktails and delicious small plates. Make sure to try to Korean Fried Chicken!
Café du Soleil - A casual dining option perfect for lunch that has a delicious quenelles and lyonnaise salad.
Odessa Comptoir - Lyon has a blossoming natural wine scene and Odessa Comptoir is a lively and scene-y place to enjoy it! Don't miss out on their burger and a bottle (or two) of wine.
Restaurant Le Cambodia - Cambodia was once a French colony and they definitely brought delicious food back to the homeland. This laid back restaurant is tucked into the Old Town and filled with locals!
Monsieur P - A quintessential French dining experience best enjoyed through their tasting menu. Make sure to make reservations in advance and enjoy decadent French classics with incredible wine pairings.
Paul Bocuse - Named after the famous chef who put Lyon (and some say French cooking) on the map, this three-Michelin star restaurant has a bucket-list meal well worth the splurge!
Boulangerie Saint Paul - Your one stop shop for baked treats like pan au chocolate and quiches for the morning!
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Jordan Joyce
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For more travel tips, check out Fora Advisor Christian Caudill’s guide, The French City You Should Visit Next: Lyon, France.
This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Lyon.