Start on the Coast

With Alaska Airlines' recent addition of non-stop service to Belize City, we were a mere six-hour journey away from our hometown of Seattle. (Pro Tip: With the Alaska miles credit card, you can snag an annual companion ticket to anywhere they fly for just $129 – Belize included.)

Note: Despite being both the smallest and least densely populated country in Central America, Belize has A LOT to see and do — perhaps too much for one trip. This time around we decided to skip staying on the popular islands of Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker all together- next time!

Once you touch down in Belize City, you're presented with two thrilling options to get to the coast: rent a rugged Jeep Cherokee- ok, it doesn't have to be a Jeep, to drive to the coast (our choice and endorsed by our son to up the cool quotient) or catch a short flight.

The coast hosts a myriad of fabulous resorts, from Francis Ford Coppola’s luxurious Turtle Inn in Placencia to our chosen abode, The Lodge at Jaguar Reef in Hopkins. Our adventure kicked off with a thrilling leap from their two-story “Big Dock” and a few playful swings from it's attached rope swing.

Island Hopping & Snorkeling The MesoAmerican Barrier Reef

The next day it was time to go island hopping. Arranging the boat was as easy as stopping by the front desk after dinner the night before. Our skilled guide, Kendrick, led us on a half-day exploration of vibrant marine life at two snorkeling sites and relaxation on two charming cayes (pronounced "keys").

Going in June during the tourist shoulder season meant we had the boat, and our guide, all to ourselves and the experience was truly one-of-a-kind. From sunny beach chairs at the bar on the final caye, we sipped piña coladas (virgin for our son), reflecting on the day's colorful encounters along the world's second largest barrier reef.

Snorkeling with Sharks and Sting Rays

The apex of our coastal escapade was a mesmerizing expedition 90 minutes into the Caribbean. It's the farthest any of us have ever been out into the ocean on such a small boat and we once again had it all to ourselves. Docking on a dreamy, minuscule island. The snorkeling brought face-to-face encounters with fish, coral and even a Barracuda. Then, it was a final plunge with a group of nursing sharks and stingrays, who flocked to the sound of the boat's motor and happily swam among us as our guides threw them our lunch left overs. Their gentle majesty was awe-inspiring and quickly turned our fear into fascination. On the way home our guide even slowed the boat to a crawl for about 20 minutes to let our son try his hand at fishing with nothing but a lure and a hand-held line. It was a day none of us will ever forget.

End up in the Jungle

The next day it was time for one more jump off the dock and to bid farewell to the beach. The next exciting chapter of our Belizean adventure began with another couple of hours in the jeep- this time heading deep into the jungle.

Staying at Mystic River Inn

Our own bespoke resort in the wild, where limited Wi-Fi availability led to heartfelt conversations and quality family time, uninterrupted by TV- this place was beyond special. My husband and I kept remarking that we felt like we were on White Lotus. The whole resort only has 15 bungalows and the dining room has 15 corresponding tables. All of the staff quickly get to know you by name, and each morning they take your orders for the entire day so that each time you walk into the restaurant, you simply find the table with the correct number of place settings for your group and within minutes your meals magically appear.

Leisurely Canoe Rides on Property

As the resort is situated on a river (we had an amazing waterfront view from our patio), complimentary tubes and canoes were always available. Gliding through serene waters one afternoon, we were graced with glimpses of vibrant wildlife, including the striking macaws in the trees and even an elusive Kinkajou on our short hike back to the room. It was a peaceful yet thrilling venture that connected us deeply to Belize's natural wonders.

ATM Cave

The highlight of the jungle, and indeed the entire trip, was our once-in-a-lifetime hike at ATM Cave.

(Actun Tunichil Muknal) cave is an adventure that's not for the faint of heart. After a 45-minute hike, crossing three rivers, you enter this unique caving experience by swimming into the cool subterranean world of a cave that was once considered the sacred entrance to The Underworld by the ancient Maya. Sadly, cameras are no longer allowed into the sacred space after too many tourists damaged artifacts while trying to get a selfie. You'll just have to believe me when I tell you there are parts that are so tight only your neck will fit between the walls and, just as you're starting to get claustrophobic, the ceilings open up to reveal spectacular stalactites and stalagmites. We waded through water at various heights for much of the hike, guided by the beam of our headlamps to the cave's hidden chambers- nearly 3 miles in total. This is one of the last places in the world where you can get within inches of archeological treasures (including pottery and a fully intact human skeleton from 900 AD) that tell the stories of Mayan rituals and human sacrifices.

Exploring the Xunantunich Ruins

With a local guide that we picked up right outside the site's entrance, our journey to these captivating ruins began with a quaint, hand-cranked ferry ride across the river. The day was filled with exploration, an unforgettable sighting of our one and only tarantula in the wild, and an amazing amount of history. The guides here are incredibly knowledgable, undergoing a lot of study to obtain certification and seeing the ruins without them just wouldn't be the same. Their stories made handball courts and Mayan royal quarters truly come to life.

Chocolate Making Tour in San Ignacio

A treat for the senses, this hands-on experience allowed us to create chocolate the traditional way, from bean to bar. A delectable lesson in culture and flavor. It was a highlight of our stay.

Waterfall Exploring and Cliff diving at Big Rock Falls

The roar of the falls and the invigorating splash of crystal-clear water made this adventure a thrilling plunge into nature- once you make it down the many, many steps to get there. It was well worth it though, as lounging in front of the waterfall was awe-inspiring. And we still laugh about the cheers from everyone visiting the waters that day as we each faced our fears and jumped from the cliff.

Big Dock Bar - The Lodge at Jaguar Reef: If you're anywhere in the Hopkins area, you'll be immediately drawn to this incredibly fun two-story dock. With tons of places to swing, jump and even lounge in nets above the water, you're sure to work up an appetite. Luckily, the Ceviche Bar on the second floor serves up incredibly fresh and flavorful ceviche along with all the tropical drinks your heart will desire.

Paddle House Restaurant - The Lodge at Jaguar Reef: There simply isn't a better way on Earth to start your day than with this incredible view and delicious brunch fare.

Chef Rob's Gourmet Cafe: After our long drive from the airport, we arrived in Hopkins during the dreary afternoon hour between lunch and dinner service. Thankfully, the manager at this hotspot on the beach (and right next door to our hotel) took pity on us and very graciously fed us dinner early- we had the place all to ourselves and it was one of the best meals of our entire vacation. To guarantee ‘the true Caribbean experience’, Chef Rob only uses local ingredients sourced from within our 30-mile range. Their cooking style is best described as eclectic since they bring their experience and cooking techniques from all over the world, including at the 1000 room Hilton Hotel Group at Park Lane in London where they served as ‘Chef de Partie’ for their 5-star restaurant.

Love on the Rocks - A separate dining experience in the same location and also arranged by Chef Rob, Love on the Rocks is bringing back the traditional Mayan cooking technique of cooking your own food on lava stones that have been heated to 700 degrees for eight hours in a modern oven. The experience is extremely interactive and the flavors are delicious.

Benny's Kitchen, San Ignacio - Just a few blocks from the entrance of Xunantunich, locals and the few lucky tourists find this open-air spot. Go for the Mayan pibi, a dish consisting of handmade tortillas, guacemole, salsa and pork that's been slow-cooked in an underground oven. You won't be sorry!