Roadtrip Baja California Sur - Off the Beaten Path

East Cape: Baja’s best-kept secret

Our adventure began on the East Cape, where desert landscapes plunge into the Sea of Cortez. The drive along the Camino Cabo Este is an experience in itself: dusty, bumpy and notorious for rattling rental cars. It’s the kind of road that keeps this part of Baja largely untouched, and I was in awe the entire time. Wild donkeys roamed the sides, the sea sparkled on one side and the rugged desert stretched endlessly on the other. For me, it was like uncovering a secret Baja, frozen in time.

We stayed in a tiny boutique hotel that felt like a hidden retreat — a perfect spot to completely unplug and immerse yourself in the raw beauty of Baja. If you're looking to get some work done or find inspiration, this is the place to be. The coast is just steps away, and the tranquility is like nothing else.

Cabo Pulmo: A treasure at the end of a dusty road

From the East Cape, we ventured to Cabo Pulmo, a dusty little village famous for its scuba diving. If you’re a fan of low-key, solar-powered places with no frills (or ATMs), this is your spot. The Wi-Fi here was surprisingly the best we had all trip, much to my sons’ relief.

Cabo Pulmo is all about sustainable tourism. The local community turned it into a marine park in 1995 to protect the coral reef, and it’s been a success story ever since. The snorkeling was unreal — so many fish, sea turtles, manta rays, dolphins! This place isn’t for everyone (it’s definitely not Cabo with its mega-resorts), but I loved the throwback to my backpacking days. If the accommodations are too rustic for your taste, I still recommend a day trip to snorkel or dive — the underwater world here is worth every dusty mile.

Santiago and Cascada Sol de Mayo: A desert oasis

After Cabo Pulmo, we crossed the peninsula to the Pacific side. On our way, we stopped in Santiago, a charming town nestled in the Sierra de la Laguna Biosphere Reserve. A 30-minute drive from town brought us to Cascada Sol de Mayo, a waterfall hidden deep in Fox Canyon. The short hike was sweltering (114 F / 46 C) but the moment I jumped into the water was pure bliss. Even though we weren’t the only ones there, it felt like a secret desert paradise.

Cerritos Beach: Surf, sun and surprise thunderstorms

Our next stop was Cerritos Beach on the Pacific coast — a laid-back surf town with some of the best waves in Baja. We spent six days here while my husband and I caught up on work (the Wi-Fi was decent!). The boys loved the beach life, and I had a mini adventure when a freak thunderstorm knocked out the power. No electricity meant no fans and no internet, but it also gave us the most stunning sunset of the trip.

Cerritos is still charmingly minimally developed, though I did discover some lovely boutique hotels while wandering around. If you’re looking for something more polished, nearby, Todos Santos has become a hub for artists and surfers, with incredible boutique hotels, galleries and some of the best meals we had on the trip.

A bit beyond Cerritos, we ventured through a stunning oasis, following a small trail with a hint of adventure. Signs warning "no trespassing" were sprinkled along the way, but we continued until we emerged onto a pristine, untouched beach paradise. The seclusion made it feel like a secret spot, though it’s easy to imagine it won’t stay undiscovered for long.

La Paz: Baja’s authentic capital

Our next stop was La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, and it instantly won my heart. This town still feels local, not overrun by tourism. We stayed at a charming boutique hotel, explored the Malecon (perfect for evening strolls) and ate our way through fantastic seafood spots. La Paz also happens to be close to Balandra Beach, one of the most stunning beaches I’ve ever seen.

Just a heads up: You can’t just show up at Balandra. Visitor numbers are controlled, so plan ahead. But even if you miss out, nearby Tecolote Beach is a great backup — and you can always return to Balandra for the afternoon slot.

Last days in San José del Cabo

Before heading to the airport, we spent a few relaxed days in San José del Cabo. Visiting during the low season, the town’s usual buzz was pleasantly calm. We strolled through the historic center, admired the vibrant local art scene and enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere at Flora Farms, a perfect end to our adventure.

Final thoughts

Baja California Sur surprised and delighted me at every turn, from the wild donkeys of East Cape to the quiet charm of La Paz. Whether you’re an adventurer, a surfer or someone seeking a slice of tranquility, there’s a corner of Baja that’s perfect for you. And if you need help planning your own Baja escape, you know where to find me.

For a family getaway like ours, an immersive nature experience, off-the-beaten-path discoveries, a romantic escape or even a quick girls’ trip, Baja offers a wealth of experiences. As your travel advisor, I’ll match you with the perfect hotels and tailor an unforgettable itinerary to your preferences, pace and passions.