Paris & Provence for Art Lovers

Indulge in the charm of Paris as you settle into the boutique haven, Relais Christine, a beautiful launchpad for your French art adventure. This is one of my favorite hotels in Paris, nestled on a quiet street in the vibrant St-Germain-de-Pres. Unwind from your travels and start the culinary part of your journey with dinner at a Parisian bistro. I recommend the quintessential Le Bistrot de Paris, where classics like beef bourguignon and duck confit await.

I believe there is no better way to start your journey in a new city than with a short walk around your neighborhood. Have a local expert meet you at your hotel to unveil Parisian art secrets to you, or wander around by yourself and simply get lost, in a good way. After lunch (try Chez Savy or Relais de l'Entrecôte) explore the often-overlooked Musée Rodin, a stunning mansion where the French sculptor lived and worked or immerse yourself in impressionist and post-impressionist wonders at Musée de l’Orangerie, beautifully located in the Tuileries. Or visit both! I suggest dining at Place des Vosges, one of my favorite Parisian squares.

Visit this stunning ‘new’ temple of modern art in the heart of Paris: The Pinault collection, housed in the historic Bourse de Commerce (former stock exchange); an impressive collection in a striking domed building. It has works from the 1960s to the present day and an ever-rotating series of excellent temporary exhibits. Lunch can be had here at La Halle aux Grain. (reservations recommended)!

In the afternoon, take a walk that Van Gogh could have made in his day, guided by a specialized Parisian art historian. Artists have always made Montmartre their home, and they still do. It was an absolute highlight of our trip to visit an artist at work in his somewhat hidden and serene studio, surrounded by the energy of lively Montmartre. Stop at Musée de Montmartre (Renoir used to work here) and end the day with dinner at the iconic windmill, made famous by Van Gogh (Le Moulin de la Galette).

It’s time to journey south to Provence. Relish the views of the French countryside as you zip along on the high-speed train toward Avignon. Upon arrival, have a driver meet you at the train station (or rent a car) and take you to a truly magical place: Château Des Alpilles, a breathtaking grand manor house in the heart of the French countryside, surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. Consider spending the night here. In the afternoon, you have the choice to simply soak in the serenity of the manor grounds. Swim, play Pétanque or tennis, or go on an outing to historic Saint-Remy-de-Provence, which is totally worth a visit.

After a leisurely breakfast at the chateau, your morning calls for a visit to Monastery Saint-Paul de Mausole, the psychiatric institution where Vincent van Gogh stayed for about a year. It was within these walls that he painted some of his most extraordinary masterpieces, including the Starry Night and the Blossoming Almond Tree. Visit his old room, preserved as it was during his stay. In the afternoon, wander through friendly and historic Arles and view some of the vistas painted by Van Gogh. Stay at Hotel L’Arlatan, a personal favorite of mine and a work of art in itself. Have dinner at their tranquil courtyard or choose a nearby local restaurant at Place du Forum.

Van Gogh lived in Arles and was entranced by the light. He painted nearly 200 paintings while he was here and hung out with Gauguin. This morning, immerse yourself in Van Gogh's world at the Fondation Vincent van Gogh, a vibrant tribute to his life and work. Following, a knowledgeable guide can lead you through Arles, exploring significant sites that inspired the artist, such as Café Terrace. In the afternoon, choose between a visit to the contemporary art museum in Frank Gehry's iconic LUMA building, which I find an absolute must. Or explore the ancient Roman sites scattered throughout the town. Such a contrast. Whatever you choose, you will revel in the charm of Arles.

Today, embark on a scenic drive from Arles to Nice, relishing the breathtaking landscapes of Southern France, the very birthplace of modern French art. A lovely stop along the way is Aix-en-Provence. Here you can trace the life, work, and inspiration of Cezanne, the father of impressionism. Visit his former mansion, and step inside his old workshop and peruse models of his still-life, perfectly preserved as Cezanne arranged them. Take some time to visit Musée Granet. Then, do as I did, and take your time for a stroll around the pleasant streets and plazas and enjoy a light lunch at a local restaurant. Maybe stop for a citronade. Later that afternoon, you continue your journey to Nice, where you'll be welcomed at a lovely boutique hotel.

Rent a car or hire a driver and leisurely explore some enchanting towns near Nice. It’s only a short drive to Saint Paul de Vence, an idyllic medieval village, a mecca for artists, that once inspired legends like Chagall and Picasso. Visit the exquisite Fondation Maeght, the very first private art foundation in France, that, with its rural setting, striking art space and exquisitely placed outdoor works, is a must-visit. In this village, you can savor lunch at the iconic cultural hub, La Colombe d'Or, a restaurant that is full of art, and was once favored by Picasso and Matisse

In the afternoon travel to Èze, a village perched dramatically on the clifftop 1,400 feet above the Mediterranean Sea and take in the splendid views along the coast. Explore the village’s narrow, winding streets and charming squares. Stroll through the Jardin Exotique, home to around 400 cacti, citrus trees and tropical plants. Plenty of restaurants in Eze to have an epic dinner with a view. Consider the Hotel La Chèvre d’Or, from here you could also opt to walk down to Èze sur-Mer. This hiking path is named after the German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche.

Beyond sun and beach, Nice is overflowing with art, design and food highlights to enjoy. In the morning, rise for a visit to the Marché aux Fleurs, the flower market at Course Saleya, with its fragrant, brilliant blooming displays. Then walk the cobble-stone streets in the old town and enjoy the colorful architecture and hidden corners. Devote part of your day to Henri Matisse, who lived in this seaside paradise until his death in 1954. Discover the Matisse Museum, set within the 17th-century Villa des Arènes, which holds an incredible collection of Matisse’s paintings, drawings and prints, cut-outs, and almost all of his sculptures. Late afternoon, I recommend strolling lazily along the Promenade des Anglais, the 7 km-long promenade with beautiful views of the Mediterranean Sea, built in the 1820s by the English aristocracy.

If this is the last night of your French journey, why not end it with a magical sunset boat ride along the French Riviera, offering picturesque views of Èze and/or take time to enjoy a farewell dinner at a fabulous local favorite. Plenty of delightful restaurants to try, such as La Merenda, Las Agitateurs or Rouge.

As we come to the end of this art-inspired journey through the heart of France, I hope this itinerary sparks the same joy and wonder in you as it has in mine and my fellow travelers.

Additions/replacements

This itinerary strikes a balance, allowing you to savor France at a gentle and enjoyable pace, whilst overflowing with inspiration.

It’s easy to change it up or add an extra day:

• Provence: Visit some of the family-owned wineries or discover the world of perfumery in and around Grasse, where you can uncover the secrets of crafting captivating scents.

• Provence: Consider spending a night in Eze; many day-trippers leave and it’s a delight to be there at night.

• Provence: Contemporary art (and wine) lovers will want to schedule a visit to Château La Coste, a winery, hotel and architectural sculpture park with works by Tadao Ando, Louise Bourgeois and Renzo Piano, among many others.

• Provence: Add a beach day in Cannes or Antibes, or venture on to Italy.

• Paris: Not included in this itinerary but always worth a visit are the Louvre and Musee d’Orsay. If you haven’t been, or have not for a while, definitely add this to your itinerary.

• Paris: Consider taking a day to travel to Versailles and immerse yourself in the majestic history of the lavish Palace of Versailles, a remarkably preserved UNESCO World Heritage site. Step in the shoes of King Louis XIV as you wander through the enchanting chateau, and lose yourself in the allure of the dreamy gardens. Lunch can be enjoyed right in the Palais, in Alain Ducasse’s restaurant.

Notes

This itinerary is wonderful year-round, with June-July offering the enchantment of lavender blooms and lovely Mediterranean weather.

This itinerary suggests private transfers, personal expert guides, and boutique hotels. Of course, public transportation in Paris and/or a rental car in the countryside are a great alternative.

Bon Voyage!