Curator’s statement
Rome is such a special place, I return here time and again for another dose of its eternal charm. Each time, I feel fortunate to revisit my favorite locations and fountains, discover new — or ancient — treasures and miss it as soon as I leave. Rome is a compact city that is charming and beautiful year-round, and a lovely place to bring kids for a slow-travel long weekend.
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Day 1: Hop On Hop Off Bus, Water Fountains & Spanish Steps
For breakfast, I would recommend finding a lovely café and sitting outside and enjoying people watching. Order a cornetto and cappuccino and take your time — when in Rome…
Purchase a 24-hour hop-on hop-off city sightseeing bus tour, which gives you convenience and flexibility, especially with young children. Spend the morning hopping on and off at the Vatican, Roman Forum or the Colosseum. If you are exhausted from jet lag, you can take in the city from the top of the bus and enjoy audio commentary in your language of choice.
For lunch, wander your way to the Piazza Navona, and enjoy a leisurely lunch with a view of the fountains. After lunch, plug “Fountain of the Books” into your preferred map app and refill your water bottles at the (potable) fountain! One thing my child really loved was looking for water fountains that dot the city. The water is potable and wonderfully cool on a hot summer day, and fun to fill up your water bottles. If you see a fountain with a hole above the spigot, you are meant to place your hand underneath, so the water squirts up and you can use it like a fountain. You can also tell your child to look for the “SPQR” signs that dot the city on drains, grates and on the sidewalk.
In the afternoon, take the subway to the Piazza di Spanga and take a selfie on the Spanish steps. There is great shopping in the streets along the Spanish steps — and gelato on every block.
For dinner, dine at Carpaccio the Beef Boys, an absolute gem of a restaurant. Don’t let the theatrical wood and marble ambiance fool you — they welcome young children and bent over backwards to make my child feel at home. I trusted our server with recommendations from wine pairings for carpaccio, a salad, steak and pasta, and it was glorious.
Day 2: Castel Sant'Angelo, Children's Museum & Trastevere
On your second day in Rome, meander your way along the Tiber River to the Castel Sant'Angelo, an imposing castle overlooking the river. I personally prefer going first thing in the morning, so that it feels like you have the place to yourself. Kids will love exploring the staircases and taking in the view from the rooftop of the Vatican and Saint Peter’s Square.
When you are ready for lunch, it is an easy walk back towards the city center. Head towards the Piazza del Popolo, and enjoy lunch near the square.
After lunch, unwind while your little one explores the nearby locals-only Children's Museum of Rome! With timed entries, Il Museu dei Bambini di Roma is thoughtfully kid-centric, not crowded and perfect for kids aged two to 12 or so. After they are played out, treat the kids to a gelato, and enjoy an affogato (shot of espresso over gelato).
For dinner, walk or take a city bus to the Trastevere neighborhood for a quiet dinner. I always find Trastevere soothing and peaceful away from the heavily touristed city center. Another benefit is that the cost of dinner is lower here because they don’t depend on tourists.
Need to know
This itinerary was for my family after a cruise. I’d highly recommend the Le Meridien Visconti because they went above and beyond for our family from car transportation to customer service. Don’t be put off by the bland exterior appearance — it is very comfortable inside, their breakfast buffet is to die for and it’s walkable to almost anything in Rome. If you can book their one-room king bedroom suite with a terrace, it is worth it to have the extra space.
My other recommendation is the Rome Cavalieri, a Waldorf Astoria Hotel, which is as luxurious as you would expect, and also has more outdoor space for the kids to run around the gardens or pools. They do have a shuttle, but the Waldorf is slightly outside the city of Rome and uphill (not as centrally located).
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Lacey Hayes
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This itinerary is part of our ongoing series on travel to Italy.