A Week in Croatia & Austria by Night Train

The drive from Zagreb Airport to the city center is about half an hour. I recommend calling an Uber, which is quite affordable and reliable. Of course, you can also use a prearranged car service.

Once you arrive at the hotel, check in and take a moment to relax. The Esplanade offers great on-site restaurants, and I’d recommend having lunch or a snack before heading out to explore.

Head to the designated bus stop for your hop-on, hop-off Zagreb City Tour. You will make a big loop in and around the city, passing many of its most famous sights. Step off the bus at a spot of interest to you or complete the whole tour, which gives you a wonderful overview of Croatia’s capital. Make sure not to miss the cathedral, the funicular and the main shopping boulevard Ilica.

Later in the day, stroll past the Trg Kralja Tomislava area with the art pavilion. For a special welcome dinner, head through Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayera to Theatrium by Filho, located in the atrium of the Zagreb Youth Theatre. I’d describe the cuisine as upscale, contemporary Croatian, which is also reflected by the restaurant’s sleek, modern interior design.

For a nightcap, walk two blocks east to Express Bar, a lovely, smaller craft coffee-and-cocktail shop that has fantastic Negronis.

Start the morning with a light breakfast at the hotel before enjoying a relaxing spa treatment. The hotel has a lovely in-house health club, a tranquil place for calm and quiet.

For lunch, I’d recommend Franko’s Pizza & Bar to taste some of the best (and award-winning) pizzas in Croatia. After, head to the Museum of Contemporary Art, which has more than 12,000 works by local and foreign artists in its collections. Pro tip: Have a refreshing Spritz from the bar cart outside.

After you have explored the museum, take a car back to the hotel and get ready for dinner. Gostionika Ficlek is a wonderful spot for traditional Croatian cuisine, run by a welcoming family that has created a restaurant that feels both modern and traditional.

Close out the evening with a stop at Noel Zagreb, a Michelin-starred restaurant in a quiet corner of the city, which happens to stir fantastic Manhattans!

Check out of the hotel and pick up your rental car. Take a 3-hour drive to Krka National Park and reserve about three hours to explore the beautiful nature. Located around the Krka River, this national park is full of amazing waterfalls and monasteries, and you can explore by foot, bus or boat. You can purchase tickets at arrival or in advance online.

Once you have enjoyed the breathtaking natural beauty, get back on the road for another hour and drive to the hotel in Split. The Le Meridien has two beach areas, one to the south of the main building and one slightly north. After being welcomed with a glass of champagne during check in, put on sunscreen and stroll down to one of the beaches, where you will find plenty of loungers to rest. Catch some sun and float in the crystal-clear water. Also, the beach bars offer delicious cocktails!

In the evening, I’d take it easy and eat at one of the restaurants at the hotel. The Italian place Conlemani is delicious, but for a more upscale experience, try to get a table at 7 Palms.

Finish the night with a cocktail and dessert on your balcony overlooking the marina.

Drop off the rental car close to the old town, then stroll through the Diocletian Palace, where you can still find some of the original tile. Built for the Roman emperor, it houses lots of wonderful shops, boutiques, cafes, galleries and eateries today.

For lunch, I recommend stopping by St. Burek to try one of their deliciously flaky savory pastries. If you can snag a beef burek, you are lucky! They sell out as soon as they come out of the oven, but if you can wait a bit, there is usually more. And if you’re craving something sweet afterwards, just walk around the corner to Gelateria Emiliana for some of the best ice cream in Croatia.

Continue your exploration of the area. Make sure you also peek into the more quiet alleys, as they often hide some of the best galleries and boutiques.

Judita Palace Heritage Hotel’s cozy outdoor bar is the perfect spot for an afternoon pick-me-up.

Later, take a short ride to the harbor to check in for your dinner sunset cruise. Enjoy the views of the city against the sun slowly setting while indulging in delicious Croatian food, wishing the moment would never end.

Take a boat from the hotel to one of the many fabulous islands around Split. I recommend Hvar for a luxurious day trip to historic buildings and lush vineyards, or Brač for secluded beaches and beautiful nature. Both offer numerous restaurants and things to see.

In Hvar, visit St. Stephen’s Square and the Franciscan Monastery, then explore the Fortica, which once was the island’s main fortress. There are smaller beaches throughout, one really close to the Monastery, but you are surrounded by the sea, so just find a spot you like. In the afternoon, book a wine tour and taste your way through Croatian wineries.

In Supetar on Brač, explore the old town and try some of the local olive oil and wine. Spend the afternoon at Zlatni Rat (Golden Horn), the famous beach with its crystal-clear water. Try the outstanding, fresh seafood and relax before returning to Split.

Take it easy in the morning with a late breakfast in bed, then prepare to be pampered. The hotel has a fantastic spa area, and a massage will put you in the best mood for a travel day. Add champagne and fresh fruit and you will be ready for a cozy night on the train.

Head back to old town Split for a farewell late lunch/early dinner at Laganini or Portofino, then take an Uber to the train station and board your night train to Vienna. On board, the compartments are clean and comfortable, and the ride on the train is pretty smooth. Bring some snacks and a piccolo (or regular) bottle of wine, download Harry Potter on your phone and pretend you’re on your way to Hogwarts.

Once you arrive in Vienna after a good night’s sleep, take a car to the hotel and make use of your early check-in privileges. Enjoy a hearty breakfast before heading out to explore the city. Habsburg Palace, the Opera House, the National Library and the beautiful City Park are all within walking distance. Then stroll down the main shopping street until you get to Figlmueller, “Home of the Schnitzel.”

After lunch, take some time to explore the area. Visit St. Stephen’s Cathedral and the Vienna Museum Mozart House, where the composer lived and worked.

On your way back to the hotel, stop by Hotel Sacher for a slice of their famous (and delicious) Sacher Torte and a glass of bubbles.

Get some rest and enjoy your beautifully-appointed room before leaving the hotel for an aperitif at If Dogs Run Free, a wonderfully-cozy bar that serves masterful takes on the classics. For dinner, you can go out with a splurge at Michelin-starred Tian or Silvio Nickol Gourmet Restaurant, or take it easy at one of the many traditional Austrian eateries.

Close out the night (and trip) in the Naschmarkt area with its many gay bars and clubs. Start at Felixx Bar or Village Bar for a good cocktail, then head to KEN Club or WHY NOT to dance off the schnitzel and make new friends.