Curator’s statement
Slightly off the beaten path in Japan is the remarkable Naoshima Island, a small island a couple hours from Kyoto that has been transformed into a collection of museums and outdoor art that is a must see for modern art lovers. Yayoi Kusama's iconic yellow pumpkin, buildings designed by architect Tadao Ando, and countless modern artworks scattered throughout the island make for a dramatic and fulfilling day.
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Where to stay in Japan
Conrad Tokyo
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Uno Hotel
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Uno Port
Gateway to scenic beauty, maritime charm, and cultural wonders in the Land of the Rising Sun.
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Things to do in Japan
The two main art museums on the island are the Chichu Museum (reservations and advanced tickets are essential) and the Benesse Art Site (which includes the Valley Gallery). In addition, the town of Honmura has a collection of abandoned houses that have been transformed by artists into destinations. Do not miss the Minamidera House for a remarkable sensory experience.
The island is small, so covering all the must-see sites in a day is certainly possible. If you are able to stay overnight at Benesse House, even better -- but make sure you make reservations well in advance as the small hotel often sells out months ahead. And there are further excursions to two other art islands nearby if you have an extra day to spare.
To get around the island you can take the local busses, or the Benesse House shuttle bus, which runs in a loop every half hour or so. But I recommend renting an electric bike to enjoy cruising around the island on your own. The electric assist is vital for some of the steeper hills. There are three bike rental places right at the ferry port where you can get a bike for about $10.
Naoshima Island is a little over two hours from Kyoto/Osaka by bullet train to Okayama, local train to Uno Port, and then a 20-minute ferry ride to the island. Alternatively, a private taxi can be arranged from Okayama to the port. The Uno Hotel is a short walk from the train station, has very pleasant modern rooms (many of which have sea views), and provides free access to outstanding Onsen baths right next door. The Onsen features both indoor and outdoor hot pools, sauna, and a variety of spa services.
The island is also about two hours from Hiroshima, so it makes for an excellent stop over if you are following the common tourist path from Tokyo through Kyoto to Hiroshima.
And keep in mind, do NOT go to Naoshima on Monday as all the museums are closed that day!
Places to eat & drink in Japan
There are only a few places to eat on the island. Benesse House has a fine restaurant and a smaller cafe which serves a few set meals every day. In Honmura, I can recommend Ishii Shoutan for a fine bowl of noodle soup.
If you spend the night in Uno Port for early access to the island, and enjoy down-to-earth local cuisine, Osaka-ya a couple blocks from the ferry terminal serves delicious set meals and is friendly and welcoming.
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Travel Advisor
Stephen Field
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Japan. For more travel tips, check out Fora Advisor David Rosenberg's guide, The Culture Enthusiast’s Naoshima Travel Guide.