Curator’s statement
San Diego: the oft-forgotten little sister of the behemoth city to the north. The charm of visiting lies not particularly in the downtown area — although there are a few noteworthy things to see and do — but in its beach towns just up the coast. I’m referring specifically to the stops from La Jolla up to Oceanside. This area is my playground. Let me introduce you.
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Where to stay in San Diego
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Places to visit in San Diego
La Jolla
La Jolla is about 20 minutes north of downtown San Diego. One could say it’s composed of three distinct parts — Downtown, La Jolla Shores and the Cliffs of Torrey Pines — each with its own personality and list of things to see and do.
Furthest to the south lies the posh downtown, perched on the cliffs and featuring upscale restaurants, art galleries and shops. With a fantastic green space next to the ocean, grab a gelato from Bobboi and take a wander down to watch the often noisy and entertaining seals and sea lions — just be sure to stand upwind or bring a nose plug! Check out the Coast Walk Trail as well as Shell Beach and the tide pools if you catch a low tide. If you’re in the mood for some culture, head to the MCASD (Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego), offering a collection of over 4,000 works created since 1950, housed in a recently renovated building with stunning ocean views and a lovely cafe.
About a 10-minute drive north sits La Jolla Shores, which feels more low-key and beachy. Head here for the long, flat beach, surf lessons and the launch point for snorkeling and sea kayaking to the La Jolla Underwater Park — where you’ll see an abundance of wildlife including leopard sharks and rays — and the famous seven sea caves. There are a few fun places to eat as well — see below.
Torrey Pines
Continuing north along the coastal cliffs, you’ll hit the Birch Aquarium at Scripps — a fun stop for families with younger kids and part of the San Diego Go City Pass if you’re exploring other theme parks or attractions in San Diego. Next up is Torrey Pines Glider Port — where you can watch or learn to paraglide off the cliffs. Don’t miss the world-renowned Torrey Pines Golf Course if golf is your game, or if you’re into hiking and nature, there’s the ever-popular Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve — where you can choose your own adventure as you hike the series of trails along the cliffs or down to the beach.
Del Mar
Next up is Del Mar, home to the famous Del Mar Fairgrounds, which host top-tier horse racing and the county fair, as well as concerts and cultural events year-round. The little hamlet of Del Mar has a lovely residential feel, a fabulous stretch of flat beach, a handful of boutique shops and the best Prosciugula pizza I’ve ever come across (and I‘m quite a pizza snob). See the list of restaurants below for more info!
Solana Beach
A stone’s throw up the 101, you’ll hit Solana Beach. Cedros Avenue, one block east of the 101, is full of upscale boutique shops and interior design merchants. You’ll also find the much-loved, boutique concert venue called the Belly Up, which hosts everything from cover bands, to B-list artists, to shows by well-known names, including a private performance by The Rolling Stones in 2015. You never know who might turn up if you’re lucky! Book ahead if you really want to see a show.
Otherwise, grab a coffee and an açaí bowl — ask for extra peanut butter — at Lofty Coffee and stroll down Cedros to explore. Or, if you’re up for a little exercise, check out Annie’s Canyon, a hidden gem of a hike with a short but super cool slot canyon. It gets crowded — street parking only — so go early! If you work up a sweat, head to the beach afterwards for a swim or a walk — when the tide is out, the beach is nice and flat for a walk below the cliffs.
Encinitas
A few minutes further up the coast, you’ll roll into Encinitas, home of internationally known Swami’s surf break, made famous by The Beach Boys’ "Surfin’ USA." If you had to pick only one town to visit in this stretch of beaches in San Diego County, this would be my recommendation. It’s full of character and beachy charm. Swami’s cafe, beach, surf break and tide pools are at the south end of the strip.
You can also visit the Self-Realization Meditation Gardens with free entry. Walk through the gardens to see the extra-large koi, then continue to the top for amazing ocean views. Afterwards, hit up Hansen Surfboards, across the street, for a large selection of surf gear and apparel.
If you’re in need of more retail therapy, check out LOLO, Salt Culture, Grounded, Vuori (the flagship store!), Brixton, ALOHA and various other independent shops. And if the kids (or adults) need refueling, The Baked Bear is a great choice for fancy ice cream sandwiches (get the cookie/brownie combo), or Cali Cream for over 40 choices of ice cream! Hang out for the afternoon at one of many spots for a beer or a cocktail and soak up that afternoon sun. Since Covid, the bars and restaurants have extended their outdoor seating onto the street, making for a very lively atmosphere on a weekend afternoon or evening!
Leucadia
Encinitas extends further up the 101 into what’s known as Leucadia — a slightly less polished section of town (their motto is "Keep Leucadia Funky") but not without some great spots to stop for food and drink — see below! I would be remiss not to mention the beaches along this part of the coast, both for surfing and chilling. Moonlight Beach has barbecues, picnic tables, a playground for littles, beach volleyball courts and a very large lifeguard station. The size of the beach is hugely affected by tides and can pretty much disappear at high tide. But if you happen to catch a low tide, it’s a lovely spot to hang, especially if you walk a little north or south from the main entry point and the crowds. Best surf access points, besides Moonlight, include Stone Steps, Beacons (check for closures) and Grandview. All located along Neptune Avenue, on which traffic only flows in the northerly direction.
Carlsbad
On the border of Leucadia and Carlsbad, you’ll find the Alila Marea Hotel at the south end of Ponto Beach — a beautiful spot for sunset drinks or dinner, with upscale, farm/ocean-to-table cuisine. Just to the north of Ponto sits the South Carlsbad State Beach Campground, and at the entrance you’ll find my favorite local venue for a beer and a pizza (pizza snob strikes again — these are worthy!) — The Camp Store. Full of locals and campers alike, with live music most nights and unbeatable views, this is a must-visit! If you’re traveling with kids, LEGOLAND sits in the center of Carlsbad, and as amusement parks go, this is a winner. Lush landscaping, food that doesn’t break the bank and a great selection of rides and activities to entertain the kids for a full day or more. There’s also the aquarium and the water park, which can be added to your ticket, as well as two themed hotels right on property.
The main part of Carlsbad is called The Village, and it’s about 10 minutes up the coast, with great beaches all along the way. Tamarack has a paid parking lot, but there is free street parking if you can get it. The beaches near the village are deep and sandy, making them popular for locals and tourists alike. When you’re ready for a break from the sand, head into the Village for shopping and food. There is a plethora of fun boutiques dotted around town. State Street is a good place to start, but don’t be afraid to wander beyond. And don’t miss the Cottages on Roosevelt — a collection of food outlets, from coffee to dessert, housed in an adorable setting of restored beach cottages around a central outdoor space.
Oceanside
Last but not least, we have Oceanside. Still up-and-coming with re-gentrification, but having made great strides, there are two super cool hotels, the original Top Gun house and a growing list of great restaurants to check out. In addition, there’s the pier, where you can fish, and a long stretch of sandy beach for sunbathing and surfing. The harbor marina offers boat rentals, jet skis, paddleboards, kayaks, whale-watching and fishing charters — catch anything from bass to tuna to sharks!
Places to eat & drink in San Diego
There are so many great options, but these are some of my personal favorites!
Coffee Stops
Bird Rock (Multiple locations: La Jolla, Torrey Pines, Encinitas, Carlsbad & inland) - A local spot that has exploded over the past few years from the original site in the little village of Bird Rock, on the south side of La Jolla
Steady State (Carlsbad Village) - Off the beaten path but popular with the local crowd, they roast their own beans and make fantastic coffee
Lofty (Multiple locations - Solana Beach, Encinitas, Carlsbad Village & inland) - Good coffee and a great brunch menu
Ironsmith (Encinitas) - Small but mighty, solid coffee options
Better Buzz (Encinitas & Carlsbad) - Great chai, coffee okay, buzzy atmosphere and good food for breakfast/brunch
Brunch
Farmer & The Seahorse (Torrey Pines) - Hidden gem tucked away in a business park with great outdoor space; farm-to-table and great for brunch or lunch
Lofty (Multiple locations: Solana Beach, Encinitas, Carlsbad Village, inland) - Casual, quick and always busy
Shorehouse Kitchen (La Jolla Shores & Carlsbad) - Always a line (you can put your name on the list through the Yelp app)
Café Topes (Carlsbad Village) - Best cinnamon rolls on the weekends, get there early and order extra frosting
Lunch
Puesto (La Jolla) - Tasty tacos and margaritas just a short walk from La Jolla Cove
Del Mar Pizza (Del Mar) - Don’t miss the Proscuigula — perfectly balanced crispy base with a chewy crust, mozzarella, prosciutto, arugula, parmesan and the crowning jewel: truffle oil. Delish!
Corner Pizza (Leucadia, Carlsbad inland, Oceanside) - Nice selection of beer and wine, live DJ Wednesday nights in Leucadia and Thursday nights in Oceanside — I always judge a pizza place by the quality of its margherita pizza, and you can’t go wrong with the margherita burrata here!
Nectarine Grove (Leucadia) - Gluten-free, organic cafe and bakery, always packed
Lobster West (Encinitas & La Jolla) - Best lobster rolls on the West Coast. Top tip: take it to go and head to the park at Moonlight Overlook for a picnic with great views!
Taco Stand (La Jolla & Encinitas) - Inexpensive, delicious and always packed — get there early to avoid the line and make sure to order the spicy shrimp taco! The quesadilla is also amazing, and I’ve heard the churros are good. Make sure to stock up on sauces and salsas at the back of the restaurant.
The Plot (Carlsbad Village & Oceanside) - Yummy vegan food that I have yet to try, but people rave about this place!
Pure Taco (Carlsbad Village) - Fun, quick and inexpensive with yummy guac, tasty tacos, local beer and cocktails
Ice Cream
Bobboi (La Jolla) - Super creamy gelato one block from the cove
Handel’s (Carlsbad Village) - More flavors than you could dream of. Personal faves are vanilla caramel brownie and salty caramel truffle. Top tip: order online to avoid the long line — shhh!
Cali Cream (Encinitas) - Used to be a branch of Handel’s but went independent, so you’ll find a lot of the same flavors here and the same huge variety
Baked Bear (Encinitas) - The best ice cream sandwiches — choose your cookie (or brownie) and flavor of ice cream
Dinner (Reservations recommended for all)
Jake’s (Del Mar) - Classic Southern California cuisine with unbeatable views; open for lunch and dinner
Pacific Coast Grill (Cardiff by the Sea) - A fabulous upscale restaurant on the beach (very unique for this area). By day you can watch the surfers and at night they even light up the water. Don’t miss the tuna sliders and the truffle fries!! Open for lunch and dinner
Death by Tequila (Encinitas) - Tons of personality and a lively scene with incredible ceviches and lots of… TEQUILA!
VAGA (Leucadia at the Alila Marea Hotel) - With partial ocean views and a sleek but welcoming design, your experience begins the minute you walk through the door. Unique and interesting blends of flavors and textures, it’s hard to choose just one dish — remember, sharing is always an option!
Campfire (Carlsbad) - A one-of-a-kind experience, drawing inspiration from the landscapes of California and intended to portray the joy of sharing a meal with friends around a campfire. But make no mistake, the menu is upscale, distinct and interesting, with sometimes cryptic descriptions — just ask your server to explain. Check it out… you won’t be sorry! And don’t miss the broccoli (I promise!)
Jeune et Jolie (Carlsbad) - Carlsbad’s first Michelin-starred restaurant and sister to Campfire, but a completely different concept. French cuisine with a California twist. The main restaurant and lovely outdoor patio have a prix-fixe menu but you can walk in and sit at the bar for drinks or an à la carte bar menu
Fresco Cocina (Carlsbad) - Fun atmosphere, great bar and yummy Latin-inspired cuisine
Piper (Oceanside) - Housed in The Seabird hotel, with its chic mid-century/beachy design and farm-to-table menu, this is a great spot for breakfast/brunch and dinner
Matsu (Oceanside) - Rated one of the “Hottest Restaurants in San Diego” by Eater in 2022 and 2023, it’s safe to say dining at this Japanese gem will be a memorable experience
Live Music
The Sound (Del Mar) - San Diego’s newest concert venue at the Del Mar Fairgrounds; get tickets ahead
Belly Up (Solana Beach) - Boutique venue serving food and drink; get tickets ahead
Le Papagayo (Leucadia & Carlsbad) - Restaurant with extensive menu and live local music most nights
The Roxy (Encinitas) - Indoor/outdoor seating with decent food and drink and a fun vibe when the music gets going
The Campstore (Carlsbad) - Super casual with a great local vibe, excellent pizza and drinks too; music is different every night and calendar is published monthly
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Travel Advisor
Christie Sweaney
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For more travel tips, check out Fora Advisor Kelsie Holt's guide, A Day in North County, San Diego: Encinitas.
This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to San Diego.