Curator’s statement
Having called this region my home for the past two years, I've dedicated myself to unraveling its secrets, from its hidden local villages steeped in tradition to the quaint masseria's serving up authentic flavors. My mission is to guide you beyond the tourist trail, offering personalized insights and recommendations for experiencing an authentic Puglia. Puglia is Italy's best kept secret and is cherished for its embrace of slow living, where time seems to stand still amid olive groves and coastal towns. It's a popular vacation spot for many Italians, and offers a serene escape off the beaten path, attracting fewer tourists and allowing visitors to uncover an authentic experience of Italian culture.
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Where to stay in Puglia
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Things to do in Puglia
Bari
Bari is the capital of Puglia, and is known for its old town, Basilica di San Nichola, Castello Svevo, and the local ladies who make fresh "orecchiette" pasta in Arco Basso. See my profile for a dedicated guide to Bari!
Trani
A truly local secret, Trani is a beautiful seaside town tucked away just above Bari. It boasts many water-front restaurants and bars, as well as it's iconic cathedral right on the sea. While you're here, I suggest paying a visit to the iconic "Castel del Monte" which is my absolute favorite spot for a sunset picnic.
Polignano a Mare
Next up, we have Polignano a Mare, a picturesque coastal town perched on cliffs above the Adriatic Sea. I would recommend spending most of your time following the Poetry written on the walls of the historic center and enjoying the views from the Lama Monachile beach. I also highly suggest taking a boat tour to explore the iconic sea caves the town is known for, and indulge in some fresh seafood! See my profile for a dedicated guide to Polignano a Mare!
Monopoli
Known for its iconic port is Monopoli, a gorgeous seaside town located south of Polignano a Mare. It's a great spot for a morning stroll, a seaside aperitif, and a taste of fresh "frutti di mare" (the local term for raw seafood, meaning "fruits of the sea"). It's also known to have the best free beaches and luxury lido's in the Bari area, as well as a fun beach club nightlife.
Alberobello
Alberobello is a unique fairytale-like town unlike any other you've seen, and a must-see in my opinion. It is known for its "Trulli" which are the unique miniature buildings and roofs that make up the village. I recommend spending 1/2 a day here since the town is quite small and there's not much to do beyond the main streets. From Alberobello, you can visit the more quaint villages of Cisternino and Locorotondo which offer a much more local feel and are completely decked out with traditional decorations during religious festivities.
Castellana Grotte
Arguably Puglia's most iconic natural attraction, Castellana Grotte is a network of breathtaking caves that warrant a few hours of exploration. On religious holidays, locals add to the enchantment with traditional cultural performances held within the caverns.
Ostuni
Known as the "White City", Ostuni is perched atop a hill where you can overlook the Itria Valley, hundreds of ancient olive groves, as well as the sea. Here you can get lost among the narrow streets, adorned with white-washed buildings, and take in the panoramic views from the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta.
Lecce
Known as the "Baroque Capital of Italy" Lecce is another one of my favorite cities and a must-see in Puglia. The city features ornate churches, palaces, and intricately carved limestone buildings. While you're here, you'll want to make sure to order a "Caffè Leccese" (an iced espresso coffee with almond milk) and a "Pasticcioto" pastry for breakfast, as well as a "Rustico" for lunch!
Special Addition: Matera
One of my absolute favorite places, Matera is a must-see when visiting Bari. Matera is one of the oldest cities in the whole world and is made of ancient rocks and caves. Although technically located in the region of Basilicata (and not Puglia), it is still very easily accessible by bus or train. Declared Europe's Capital of Culture in 2019, Matera is known for its "Sassi" which are ancient cave dwellings dating back to prehistoric times. Matera is one of the oldest cities in all of Europe, and is incredibly scenic - the famous James Bond film "No Time to Die" was even filmed here! During your stay, make sure to savor local cuisines such as the infamous bread and the "Caciocavallo" cheese. See my profile for a dedicated guide to Matera!
Places to eat & drink in Puglia
Bari:
Le Sgagliozze di Nonna Carmela - An outdoor "fast-food" restaurant that serves freshly cooked orecchiette pasta - this is a s local as you can get.
Polignano a Mare:
Pescaria: Located in the city center, this may seem like a typical fast food spot, but you'll quickly realize its a favorite among local as you can usually find a line out the door. Here you can find the most appraised local cuisine - raw, fried, and grilled seafood street food.
Locorotondo:
Restaurant U Curdunn: Traditional local cuisine in an elegant stone restaurant with vaulted ceilings.
Matera:
Zipa Cafe: This aperitif bar is literally in the rocks of Matera and offers an ambiance unlike anything you've seen before.
Regiacorte: An upscale restaurant that offers a lounge terrace with magnificent views and delicious high-end local cuisine.
Need to know
Getting around:
After having experienced public transportation here, I would highly recommend renting a car in order to experience the region thoroughly. While trains and buses are available, having a car allows for more freedom to explore remote villages, visit the stunning beaches, and escape into the countryside for a local lunch otasrting in a masseria.
When to visit and for how long:
Puglia is beautiful all year long, but is best explored from April through October. April, May, September and October are the shoulder months, and offer great weather with minimal tourism. I recommend September and October in particular, as it is still warm enough to have a swim! June, July, and August are not only more touristic, but can be unbearably hot. I especially do not recommend visiting in august as most Italians are on vacation and you will find significantly less local businesses open. You can definitely see some of Puglia's main attractions in four to five days, however I recommend 10 days for a more authentic, slower, and local experience.
For more travel tips, check out my guide, Best Beaches in Puglia, Southern Italy.
This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Puglia.
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Gaia Mieren
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