Exploring Uruguay: A Journey Through a South American Hidden Treasure

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Advisor - Marcella Branca
Curated By

Marcella Branca

  • Arts & Culture

  • Off-the-Beaten-Path Travel

  • Uruguay

  • Local Culture

  • Local Food

  • Architecture

Exploring Uruguay: A Journey Through a South American Hidden Treasure
Curator’s statement

Last August I visited Uruguay for the first time. I quickly fell in love with this incredible place, immediately noticing the many contrasts deeply woven into the fabric of this country. Old and new, coastline and farmland, innovations and traditions. Each corner of Montevideo screams nostalgia for a bygone era, old trucks, antique shops, colorful ferias - the local street markets - all mixed with a hint of bohemian modernity. Further along the coast Punta del Este, renowned for its luxurious lifestyle and vibrant nightlife, also retains its bold, natural beauty with its pristine beaches, rugged coastline and stunning sunsets. I hope with this guide I’ll successfully convey to you Uruguay’s amazing vibes and energy.

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One of my best friends was born and raised in Uruguay before moving to the United States, and for years he begged me to go visit his country. I really wanted to go, but I could never find the right time: kids, work, life, everything seemed to be in my way. I finally ended up in Uruguay in August, in the middle of their winter season and I still had the best time and enjoyed very nice weather. No more excuses: it’s always a good time to visit Uruguay!

A red and white fisherman boat tied to a dock in a harbor.
A sliver of an orange sky above the sea with building rooftops in the near distance.

There aren’t any direct flights from New York City to Uruguay, so, after a brief stop in Panama we finally landed in Montevideo. I was glad we were spending a few days in Montevideo before getting on the road along the coast. I found Montevideo with its gorgeous art-deco buildings to be very eclectic, romantic and somehow nostalgic.

An old wooden desk with a red leather chair in front of it. There is a gold framed painting and red curtains on the wall, as well as home accessories on top of the desk.

Worth exploring in Montevideo:

  • One of the many street markets - ferias in Spanish - that dot the streets of the city. These are huge, colorful open air markets where you can find literally anything, from food to dentures!

  • Mercado del Puerto, the old meat and produce market, in the middle of the old city, a few steps from Montevideo’s port. Today this beautiful building hosts many cafés, typical restaurants and crafts stores.

  • Museo Andes. Opened in 2013, this unique museum tells the story of the 1972 plane accident narrated in the book Alive! A tasteful homage both to the people who lost their lives, and to those who survived.

  • You must try the famous Chivito, Uruguay's national sandwich. I had my first Chivito in Montevideo, but you will find this signature dish pretty much everywhere. It’s a five inch tall sandwich (I'm not kidding), stuffed with steak, eggs, cheese, veggies, bacon and mayonnaise. I had the vegetarian version of it which was also incredibly tasty!

A beautiful two hour ride along the coast brought us to the glamorous Punta del Este. Since it was winter, many restaurants and bars were closed, but we were still able to soak in the elegant atmosphere in contrast to the natural beauty of the coast.

Not to be missed around Punta del Este:

  • From July to November, if you are lucky, you can see whales directly from one of the many beaches you will drive by from Montevideo to Punta del Este. A strategic view point is, like the name suggests, Punta Ballena.

  • Check out the sculpture La Mano by Mario Irarrázabal depicting five human fingers emerging from the sand of Brava Beach.

  • Head over to the city’s port to see the wild sea lions steal fish from the fishermen’s boats.

  • Visit Casa Pueblo, the creation of artist Carlos Paez Vilaro who originally built this stunning establishment overlooking the ocean as his summer residence. Today Casa Pueblo hosts a hotel and a museum. Pro-tip: enjoy a drink at sunset on the terrace of the museum, you will not be disappointed!

A vintage truck outside in a city.

After enjoying the coast, we took a short 30 minute drive north to be welcomed by a very different landscape. Miles of farmlands, lazy cows dotting the pastures, gauchos on horses and rows of vineyards neatly marked the countryside. We arrived at what would soon become one of my favorite hotels: AguaVerde Wine Lodge. This property is of remarkable beauty, surrounded by luscious gardens, an infinity pool overlooking the hotel’s vineyards and a beautiful terrace to enjoy the sunset while indulging in a wine tasting to sample the local Tannat. The restaurant’s paired menu was incredible and a great way to sample traditional recipes reinvented in a modern fashion. My room was spacious, superbly decorated and completed by two fireplaces. The property is a perfect combination of modern architecture and traditional charm, brought together by the eclectic and Bohemian taste for decor. I’d definitely recommend staying here.

Need to know

As you can tell, Uruguay stole my heart. I can’t wait to go back to learn more about this beautiful country. Next time, I would definitely try to visit during their summer season (December through March), to have a different feel and enjoy a bit more of the beach life. However, during my August stay the temperature was perfect for exploring without excessive heat. It’s always a good time to visit Uruguay!

This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Uruguay. In need of further inspiration? Check out Claudia Love’s guide, A 3-Day Guide to Montevideo, Uruguay.

Advisor - Marcella Branca

Travel Advisor

Marcella Branca

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