Foraging-To-Table in the Hills of Positano

Nestled high up in the hills above the village of Positano lies a hidden gem, Colle Dell'ara in Montepertuso. Colle Dell’ara is tucked away so discreetly that upon our arrival, we questioned if we had input the wrong address on maps. A staircase carved into the hillside serves as the entry point, an initial illusion that made us pretty worried we’d not booked accommodation. However, a delightful surprise awaited us in the form of a bag funicular, sparing us the laborious task of lugging our bags up the steep ascent. A note: if mobility is a concern, this may not be the ideal sanctuary.

Emerging atop the staircase, we were greeted by the sight of a charming building nestled into the mountainside. The main lobby was decked out with dining tables and plush lounging chairs, adorned with a tempting array of books and tour guides. Beyond, a balcony unveiled a breathtaking panorama of the Mediterranean, offering a commanding overlook of Positano below.

Our accommodations were spacious, boasting French doors that opened onto a shared balcony, partitioned to afford a sense of secluded repose. Here, we spent quite a bit of time, serenaded by the gentle rustle of leaves in the breeze, while the village lights twinkled below.

The foraging

One particular day, our appetite for adventure led us to partake in the gastronomic trekking orchestrated by the owners. Colle Dell'ara, a family-run establishment, is predominantly overseen by the three sons who epitomize warmth and hospitality, endearing themselves effortlessly to each guest.

Our intrepid guide, Giacomo, led us on what could only be described as a botanical odyssey through the hills of Montepertuso. Armed with a wealth of knowledge, he told us all about the indigenous flora, delineating which were edible and which were best to avoid (and how to spot). We gathered an abundant harvest of flowers, greens, and herbs, which would make the foundation of our forthcoming feast.

Our journey spanned the terrain, traversing a total of just about four miles, punctuated by moments of respite and revelation. A pause at the legendary Montepertuso Il Buco afforded a glimpse into local folklore, where the geological marvel of a gaping hole within the mountain bears testament to a celestial contest between the Virgin Mary and the devil himself. Further encounters ensued, including with a local woman who graciously invited us into her home. Over coffee, she shared insights into life among the nature of Montepertuso, her life intricately interwoven with the rhythms of the land.

To table

Returning to Colle Dell 'ara, we gathered around a communal table, and emptied our baskets of all our collecting. Next to our rustic banquet was the kitchen. Here, Michele, Giacomo's father, emerged with flour, cheese, eggs and sundry provisions to get us started.

All the greens metamorphosed into an array of foodie delights. Some greens were mixed into the filling for a sublime quiche, while the herbs were chopped into vibrant pesto. Handcrafted pasta became a communal endeavor, guided by our hosts, who made sure each step was not just a culinary task but a celebration of Italian craftsmanship.

One thing stood out far from the rest, however — the appetizer. Lemon leaves, plucked from nearby trees, became cookware for slices of buffalo mozzarella, diffusing each piece of cheese with a zing of lemon tree essence. So simple, but it encapsulated the essence of Mediterranean cuisine — vibrant, nuanced and utterly irresistible. Truly irresistible. My mouth is still watering!

For dessert, we made sweet ravioli, their casings enfolding a luscious filling of jam, topped with a dusting of powdered sugar. This was quite an ending to our food adventure, with flavors that danced on our tongues, a testament to the skill and heart of our hosts.

I look back so fondly on our time at Colle Dell 'ara, with a real sense of gratitude. Getting down to Positano was quick and easy, by bus or by taxi. It was nice to be able to escape the bustle of tourist activity by staying up in the hills — it was an experience we'll never forget. We made such beautiful memories (rivaled only by the views!), bonding over food and adventure. Colle Dell 'ara will always hold a special spot in our travel memories, a place where nature and delicious food brought us pure joy.

Colle Dell'ara in Montepertuso, high above Positano, is an incredible hidden gem. Embark on a gastronomic trekking adventure led by the owners, foraging for edible flora amidst stunning hills and local folklore. It’s the perfect balance of sanctuary and opportunity for adventure. I went with my cousin, but it would be the perfect place for a romantic getaway, a girl’s trip, or a multi-couple trip! The experiences are endless - reach out to plan your perfect culinary escape.

This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Positano. In need of further inspiration? Check out Lindsey Fleischman’s guide, Ultimate Summer Vacation - Positano, Amalfi Coast.