Rarotonga Revealed: Your Ultimate Guide to Paradise

As our overnight, nine-hour flight on Air New Zealand from Los Angeles descended over the mountains and touched down in the early morning hours in Rarotonga, a sense of familiarity came over us. We quickly grabbed our carry-ons (we have learned to pack light in our over 20 years of traveling together, plus you don’t need much on the island) and descended down a short flight of stairs onto the runway.

The feeling of the warm tropical air quickly loosened our stiff muscles. We could hear island music playing inside the tiny airport as friendly islanders waited to welcome us back to our hidden paradise. The same ukulele player that we saw on our last visit greeted us with a joyful “kia orana!” — the traditional greeting of the Cook Islands — which translates to “may you live long.” We were back and everything felt exactly the same as it did on our first visit three years earlier.

Nothing seems to change much in Raro, as the locals call it, and that’s exactly why we love it. In a very short time we were in our small rental car and on our way. We never have to worry about directions — there is only one road that winds around the island and you are back in your starting place in more or less 45 minutes. The locals call in going “clockwise” or “counterclockwise.” The only thing we needed to adjust to was driving on the left side of the road, but traffic moves so slowly and the only thing one needs to look out for are crossing chickens and the myriad of friendly “wandering dogs” that roam the island.

There are many choices for lodging on Rarotonga, the biggest island in the Cook Islands archipelago. There are a number of luxurious resorts, plenty of smaller more affordable hotels and rental homes directly on the beach or just across the road. On our first visit, we rented a beautiful two-bedroom home for less than $100 a night on Muri Beach, one of the most beautiful areas on the island with crystal-clear water and soft white sand.

The Cook Islanders are New Zealand citizens and therefore use New Zealand currency. Being a little over three hours from Auckland, most tourists are also New Zealanders. In the mornings, we woke to the sounds of crowing roosters and the feel of the soft breeze coming through the windows. The next trip, we decided to splurge the first night and stay at the Pacific Resort, also on Muri Beach, where breakfast is included for approximately $250. We then packed up our belongings and moved into a $70-a-night rental house for the rest of the week, overlooking the picture perfect Muri Lagoon.

Our day always begins with breakfast at one of the local cafes, where we sit outside with the friendly island dogs lying at our feet. Our favorite is Deli-Licious Cafe, owned by expats from New Zealand, where we start our day with a strong flat white and then choose from their specials written on the chalkboard, which range from a full Aussie-style breakfast with eggs, bacon and toast to delicious banana pancakes. They are well known for their homemade custard squares.

The day is then yours to do nothing but relax on the beach, engage in watersports such as paddle-boarding and kayaking or perhaps take a snorkeling boat excursion. Know that if you decide to take a beach walk, you will most likely be accompanied by one — or many — of the local dogs. Most of the dogs have private owners, and the others are taken care of by the SPCA and given their shots and any needed medical attention. The dogs will accompany you on your kayak or take a swim with you in the ocean. We often refer to them as “rental dogs” for our vacation. Even traveling alone, one can never be lonely on Raro if you are a dog lover.

Our next decision is simple: should we take a drive around the island and do some shopping in town, or lie on the beach with a book? At lunchtime, we seek out the fresh fish sandwiches and other seafood delights at either The Mooring Fish Cafe near the Avana Fishing Club or Charlie’s, where every seat has a stunning ocean view. After that, we usually take a scenic drive around the island, which never gets boring. We then stop and strap on our snorkel gear at Titikaveka Beach across from Fruits of Rarotonga, a small roadside cafe known for their smoothies, and explore the beautiful reef that is well known on the island as an ideal snorkeling spot.

After reading and relaxing on our veranda, it is time to freshen up and get ready for dinner. Evenings are very casual on the island, so this means a shower and some very casual clothes like shorts or a sundress. Muri Night Market is open four nights a week and has everything from wood-fired pizzas to Asian food to delicious homemade crepes for dessert. Get there early because many stands run out before 6 pm. It is such a lively place to sit and people-watch, with locals and tourists mingling all together and enjoying live music. Tamarind House is a wonderful destination for a sit-down dinner in a restored heritage colonial house with a magnificent sunset as your backdrop for the evening. The maître d', an orange tabby often seen wearing a black bow tie, stops by to greet diners.

Evenings end early in Rarotonga. There is nightlife in the center of town if you choose, but we come to relax. It is a short drive or a leisurely stroll back to your accommodation.

Things to do in Rarotonga

• Shop at Punanga Nui Market or Muri Night Market

• Experience one of the many Rarotonga tours

• Visit a Rarotonga museum

• Explore Maire Nui Botanical Gardens

• Fly to Aitutaki for a day on the lagoon

• Climb to the Needle and across the island

• Snorkel a marine reserve

• Check out the rock formations at Black Rock Beach

Places to eat & drink in Rarotonga

• LBV - Le Bon Vivant Muri Beach (breakfast)

• Beluga (brunch)

• The Mooring Fish Cafe (lunch)

• Charlie's (lunch)

• Tamarind House (dinner)

• Muri Night Market (dinner)

This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Cook Islands. Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out Lynsey Parsons guide, Things to Do in Rarotonga: An Intro to the Cook Islands.