Alaska by Land and Sea

When I planned my trip to Alaska, I knew that I wanted to see the ports that are typically seen on an Alaskan cruise, but I also wanted to see the interior of Alaska, specifically Denali National Park. So the specific cruise line or ship that I would travel on became less important than finding a “land and sea” trip that was:

1. Leaving from Vancouver instead of San Francisco — these cruises have fewer days at sea and typically stop at more ports

2. Traveling north into Alaska — I wanted the opportunity to spend a few days in Vancouver prior to the cruise rather than at the end of the cruise

3. Starting with the cruise component first and the land component second — just a personal preference

4. Cruising in the end of August — my preferred travel dates

5. Stopping at as many ports as possible, specifically including Glacier Bay and Hubbard Glacier (see why below)

6. Including travel on Alaska’s wonderful dome-roofed train during the land component

I ended up finding exactly what I wanted with Norwegian Cruise Line. Our ship was the Norwegian Jewel — definitely one of the cruise line’s older boats, but it had restaurant dining included in our package, balcony rooms (key on an Alaskan cruise) and nightly entertainment. Seemed perfect for what I needed since it fit my above criteria. There are certainly more luxurious cruise lines but since my trip included only two days at sea and I planned on being mostly off the ship, I decided to apportion my travel budget for this trip on excursions rather than the ship. Since I traveled to Alaska, I've found that more and more cruise lines are offering the land and sea packages, which is wonderful for you future travelers!

We boarded the ship on an unusually hot, sunny day — it's usually a little chilly — so everyone was gathered around the pool and some people were even in the pool. We got glasses of champagne and joined the dance party on deck toasting our bon voyage!

Day 1: At sea

I took a painting class and played Bingo — a totally relaxing way to start any trip! It was so nice to see people reading, playing board games, napping, making new friends, going to the casino and/or spa or hanging out in the hot tubs.

Day 2: Ketchikan

The self-declared salmon capital of the world! We took a tour around the city and saw salmon swimming upstream (fascinating), our first bear sightings feeding on salmon (equally enthralling and adorable) and the Saxmon totem poles. Then, we walked around Creek Street and ate the best salmon and fish chowder I’ve ever had.

Day 3: Juneau

We took a thrilling helicopter ride to Mendenhall Glacier. It was beyond amazing and to my surprise not at all scary despite being completely petrified (to the point of squeezing the stranger's hand and thigh next to me). A smooth, beautiful trip over a gorgeous landscape to the glacier where you meet a guide who tells you all about the natural wonder. Words do not do it justice, but JUST DO IT! My bravery was then rewarded with the most amazing crabs the size of my arm at the famous Tracy’s King Crab Shack. We ended the day with an evening whale watch where we got to see MANY humpback whales that populate the waters there. A fantastic day!

Day 4: Skagway

We walked around the cute but small town, toured the Red Onion Saloon — an original red light establishment — and then took a magnificent scenic train ride on the White Pass Railway up to the summit in Fraser, Canada. We then rode bikes 15 miles back down the mountain, which was a very exhilarating way to experience the land and scenery! You pass rivers, mountains and old train bridges, and you can still see the foot/horse trails used by those seeking their fortune in gold.

Day 5: Glacier Bay National Park

This is an at-sea day! The boat goes through this magnificent bay while a park ranger is on board to explain what you are seeing. I got up early to view the beautiful glaciers from a glass-enclosed lounge while sipping mimosas and occasionally stepped outside onto the deck for a closer look. The beauty is breathtaking!

Image 1: Glacier Bay; Image 2: Conservation center in Anchorage

Day 6: Hubbard Glacier

A lot of times, I find that a cruise line will either go to Glacier Bay or Hubbard Glacier, but not both. It was important to me to see both! The cruise ship can only get so close to this massive (over 300 feet tall), beautiful-beyond-description glacier, so I chose an excursion that got me as close as possible, and it was a treat! The sound of the chunks of ice breaking off the glacier (calving) is so loud and amazing to behold.

Day 7: Anchorage

This day concluded the cruise and began our land component. This was our first rainy day, but it did not stop me from exploring the town of Anchorage, which has cute murals, shops, museums and excellent restaurants that overlook Cook Bay Inlet. I highly recommend Simon & Seafort's Saloon and Grill.

Day 8: Anchorage

We went to the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center and got to see bears, moose, caribou, bison and more up close and personal in natural outdoor habitats. Such a treat!

Day 9: Alaska Domed Railway

We took the Alaska domed railway from Anchorage to Talkeetna. Fun fact: The glass for the domed railcars was supplied by one of my dad’s clients (my dad was a management consultant). Who knew?! There is nothing like traveling this way to see this wonderful landscape, and the food in the dining cars is delicious. Talkeetna is an adorable and fun artsy town filled with different craftspeople and artists. Try the ice cream at Shirley's Northern Lights Gourmet Ice Cream: cool flavors like fireweed and northern lights (delish!)

Day 10: Dog Gone It Tours

We met some dogsled puppies and learned about the Iditarod Dog Sled Race, which takes two weeks to complete in insane weather conditions. Although I won't share my opinion about the dog training, dog sledding and dog training for sledding is a huge part of Alaskan culture.

Day 11: Denali National Park

We were there for one and a half days. This is a massive, gorgeous national park filled with animals native to Alaska, beautiful landscapes that change with the seasons and Mount Denali (which can only be seen on a perfectly clear day)! Most people take a guided bus tour offered by the park. We took the Tundra Wilderness Tour, which was nothing short of amazing — we got to see caribou, mountain goats, moose, bears and the beautiful mountains. The landscape was starting to turn for fall so the colors were gorgeous! Despite the length of the tour (five hours), it felt like it wasn’t long enough. We spent the rest of the day white-water rafting along the Nenana River, which has class three and four rapids. Totally exhilarating and not for the faint of heart!

Day 12: Fairbanks

Back on the domed railcars heading from Denali to Fairbanks! Once in Fairbanks, we saw the Alyeskan Pipeline up close and in person and then tried our hand at panning for gold at Gold Dredge 8, a preserved gold mining dredge. We then rented a car and traveled about an hour to soak in the hot springs at Chena Hot Springs Lodge. We tried our best to see the northern lights on a late night/early morning excursion high up in the mountains from the lodge in a “sus v,” but unfortunately the weather did not cooperate.

Image 1: Mendenhall; Image 2: Gold panning

All in all, a wonderful trip to a land like none other! I loved every inch of it and enjoyed all of our experiences. Other than the northern lights (can’t control Mother Nature), I saw everything I wanted to see and ate everything I wanted to eat. I had the best time!

Once you decide on how you are traveling in Alaska, whether it is land or sea or both, the key is to know what you want to do and see. Do your research! Talk to me as your travel advisor so that we can make sure your wishlist is accomplished.

Spend the money and do not fail to take excursions, as that is how you will experience all that Alaska has to offer. A cruise is merely the mode of transportation. The ports themselves have been largely redone to cater to tourists, just like Caribbean ports of call, so you need to explore beyond the port itself to see what Alaska is all about.

That being said, if all your budget allows is a cruise and ports of call, you will still see gorgeous landscapes. But it is definitely worth splurging and spending on tours and excursions to make the most of what is probably a once-in-a-lifetime trip. The best time to travel to Alaska is late spring into the very beginning of fall.

This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Alaska. In need of further inspiration? Check out my trip report, A Perfect Couple of Days in Vancouver.