Restaurant Recommendations in Rome, Perugia and Elba

Rome

This trip we explored Trastevere, the ancient working-class district just across the river from Rome’s greatest hits: Piazza Navona, Campo de’ Fiori, the Pantheon and so much more.

The streets and piazzas of Trastevere close to the river and around Ponte Sisto are packed with young tourists. Restaurants spill out onto the street. Staying nearby at the lovely Hotel Ponte Sisto, we were looking for better options. We ate twice at Sottosopra Trastevere Via Ponte Sisto, 67 on a terrace overlooking the street scene. The menu includes new twists on Roman standards, and everything is well prepared. Excellent service and atmosphere brought us back for a second evening. There is also an inviting indoor dining room. The restaurant has a branch in Madrid as well.

In a different part of Trastevere, the Vista Trastevere Roof Bar & Restaurant by "UNA cucina" sits atop UNA Hotel Trastevere. The views from the rooftop restaurant are truly breathtaking, with the Vittorio Emanuele Monument — Rome’s famous “Wedding Cake” — on prominent display. The menu, like Sottosopra, includes fresh approaches to Roman classics.

A long time favorite for traditional Roman fare, I have returned innumerable times to the Hostaria Romana an unassuming spot tucked away a short walk from the Palazzo Barberini, which houses the Galleria National di Arte Antica and is well worth a visit. The Hostaria Romana offers traditional Roman cuisine made perfectly in-house. The mozzarella and ricotta are worth the trip.

Pro tip: It is tempting to over order, but order judiciously and allow the waitstaff to guide you. After one lunch, a week or so before Christmas, the four of us each left with gift-wrapped bottles of champagne.

The word “salumeria” means a store selling salami and all kinds of accompaniments, essentially a deli. Salumeria Roscioli is legendary and goes far beyond that, with tables pouring out onto the street, counter seating, and – as we found out this visit – a chef’s table next to the kitchen. The food is excellent, the portions generous, the scene lively — make sure to say hello and chat with neighbors at the chef’s table — and location can’t be beat. Highly recommended.

Elba: Napolean was wrong.

The island of Elba does not seem to be on American tourism radar which is puzzling. Why Napolean left is beyond me. Elba, an hour or so off the coast of Tuscany by ferry, is dotted with attractive towns and villages set around exquisite beaches, and the food is fresh from the sea — literally arriving an hour or two ahead of being served at Da Paolo. We spent a week in June in Marina di Campo and ate at Da Paolo several times. High marks on food, service and atmosphere. Da Paolo is located amongst the pines a few steps from the beach. Da Paolo, Bagni Pineta, Viale degli Etruschi, 310, Marina di Campo, Elba.

Perugia

I chose to visit Perugia because in all my visits to Italy, I had never been to that part of Umbria. I was not disappointed. Perugia is a stately hilltop city once the center of great power and wealth. To my great surprise, it was also a center of Italian Futurist painting, and home to renowned Futurist Gerardo Dottori. One day we found our way to a major exhibition of his work, and that evening had dinner at Altromondo, meaning “other world” (Via Cesare Caporali, 13, 06126 Perugia, +39 075 572 6157), which come to find out, was the site of a famous Futurist dinner in 1923. The private dining room is graced with three major paintings by Dottori. The food is excellent, the service spot on, the room beautiful, and the owner charming. Highly recommended.

Remember to reserve your table in advance. Buon appetito!

This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Italy. In need of further inspiration? Check out Aimee Suthann's guide, Two Weeks in Italy: Dolce Vita in Rome, Florence and Puglia.