Just Back from Zambia with Time + Tide

South Luangwa

After a long flight from Dallas to Doha and then Lusaka, I hopped on a small aircraft to the town of Mfuwe, on the edge of South Luangwa National Park. On arrival, you get a real taste of Africa. Once you are in the 2.5 million-acre park, you feel like you have returned to a primal wilderness. Time + Tide operates five small bush camps within the park, each with around five rooms. I wanted to see all of them and walk between as many as possible. South Luangwa is a quality wildlife destination with large populations of elephants and predators, but it is best enjoyed on foot.

I started at camps along the Luangwa River, Nsolo and Mchenja, surrounded by large hippo pods. These were done in a traditional reed and thach style but were very comfortable with large four-poster beds, outdoor showers, fans and writing desks. After an afternoon game drive, we enjoyed an intimate group dinner with impeccable cuisine. The food throughout my stay in South Luangwa was almost flawless, which is rare. The following day, we walked along the river between the camps. There was a visible difference in the animal's reactions to our presence compared to in the vehicle. On a drive, you are viewing the environment, but on foot, you are part of it.

After our long walk, it was hot, and I enjoyed a soak in the small pool at Mchenja. Temperatures in October and November can regularly rise into the triple digits, but the climate was bearable by limiting activities to early morning and late afternoon. In the heat of the day, you could read a book in bed with an iced beverage.

From the river, we ventured inland to Luwi camp, one of the most remote places in the park, and we found elephants and lions lounging just a couple hundred yards from our lunch spot. Luwi was my favorite camp and one of the wildest places I've ever traveled. The sound of lions roaring at night near my tent was unforgettable.

We departed South Luangwa the next day after enjoying refreshments and a tour of Chinzombo, their luxury camp near the park entrance. Rooms here are large, with cooling systems and private plunge pools. It's the ideal place to start or end your stay in South Luangwa. Because of the small size and proximity of the camps, it's easy to do a short stay at any of them. Contrary to my usual tendency to book clients at least three or four nights per camp. Time + Tide is the only company besides Bushcamp with multiple camps deeper inside the park. I highly recommend them for those looking for adventure with luxurious touches.

Lower Zambezi

I ended my trip in Lower Zambezi National Park at Time + Tide Chongwe Camp. This part of the country is gorgeous, with a wide, meandering river flanked by mountains and dry forests with baobab trees. At ten rooms, Chongwe is a slightly larger camp. The staff was amiable, and we saw elephants grazing along the dry Chongwe River in front of our tents upon arrival. Because of a historic drought, water levels were lower than ever, and we could not canoe. However, the river cruises were still operating and were my favorite activity. There is nothing like gliding past hippos and elephants backlit by a dramatic Zambian sunset.

The Lower Zambezi has multiple activity options, including game drives, water safaris and walking safaris. I took advantage of the walking and particularly enjoyed being picked up by a boat at the end of our game drives. Wildlife was plentiful, and we had incredible sightings of wild dogs, including a dramatic hunt. Plus, there were elephants around absolutely every corner — we saw hundreds!

The Lower Zambezi was a spectacular ending to my trip. Many itineraries end at Victoria Falls. While I didn't have time on this trip, I heard positive reports from other travelers despite the falls being reduced to a trickle by the drought. Crowds were smaller, and low-water activities like Devil's Pool and microlight flights were very popular.

Zambia is a place to slow down and get in touch with nature — I can't wait to return!

Zambia isn't just for veteran safari-goers but anyone with a sense of adventure or a desire for a deeper connection to nature. For an extended trip, it combines well with Victoria Falls, Lake Malawi and other parts of Southern Africa. The rainy season in Zambia runs from mid-November to April, and many lodges are closed during this time.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Zambia page.