Curator’s statement
So, you've been captivated by Southern Italy for a while now, particularly the breathtaking Amalfi Coast with its rugged cliffs, picturesque hillside villages, shimmering black sand beaches and delectable cuisine. As you contemplate your journey, the question arises: should you handle the logistics independently or opt for a guided tour? Let's delve into the advantages and disadvantages of both options.
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If you’re looking for a comprehensive experience of the region, Sorrento is the best place to base yourself. You’ll find several five-star hotel options, such as the Grand Hotel Cocumella and the Parco dei Principi, which are right in the heart of the city. Alternatively, if you’re looking for budget-friendly accommodations, consider staying outside the city in nearby Sant'Agnello, where the Hotel Angelina offers clean, comfortable lodging without the frills. Sant'Agnello is approximately a 25-minute walk to Sorrento and a 40-minute walk to the ferry terminal.
To experience the Amalfi Coast, one option would be to rent a car. The drive typically takes around an hour under normal traffic conditions. However, navigating the winding roads can be challenging, given their narrowness and the frequent presence of motorbikes weaving through traffic. Passing can be tight, especially for larger vehicles like buses and minibuses. Non-European citizens may require an international driving permit and/or an Italian translation of their driver’s license to legally operate a vehicle. It's worth noting that most rental cars in Europe feature manual transmission, so if you're not adept with manual vehicles or prefer to avoid the extra expense of an automatic, this choice might not suit you. Parking is extremely limited and will come with extra fees.
Another transportation alternative is the Sita Bus. Tickets are easy to purchase at local cafes, newspaper stands and tabaccherie “tobacco” shops, typically costing around EUR 10 depending on your itinerary for a 24-hour pass, allowing unlimited rides. However, buses can fill up fast, particularly during the summer months, and their schedules may not always align perfectly with your plans. Buses may be completely full or have standing room only. Delays due to heavy traffic are not uncommon. Additionally, if your exploration spans multiple towns along the Amalfi Coast, be prepared for bus changes. Services typically cease around 10 pm, and some bus stops may entail a bit of walking to reach your destination.
During the high season, ferries offer another travel option. Tickets are conveniently obtainable either online or at the departure port, and it's advisable to book in advance. Depending on your destination, fares are generally around EUR 28 for a one-way trip. Ferries often provide a faster alternative to buses; for instance, you can typically reach Positano from Sorrento in about 40 minutes. However, it's worth noting that rough seas may lead to delays or cancellations of ferry services.
Other options for exploring the Amalfi Coast include hiring a private driver or joining a tour. While a private driver offers maximum flexibility, it can be quite expensive. If cost is not a concern and you prefer traveling exclusively with your group, this option provides an excellent way to experience the coast. Although I typically value independence and don't lean towards tours, I found that, especially for a first visit, this was the optimal choice.
The tour I took, organized by Project Expeditions, began in Sorrento at 8 am. We boarded a minibus and set off for the coast. After a brief stop for photos at the start of the coastal road, we proceeded to our first destination, Positano. There, our guide led us on a short walk to a terrace with stunning views of the town, offered recommendations for shops and eateries, and then allowed us free time to explore. After about an hour and a half in Positano, we were given ferry tickets to Amalfi. In Amalfi, we had the option to dine together at an open-air trattoria and take an optional boat tour of the area before enjoying more free time to shop and indulge in sorbetto di limone (lemon sorbet inside a lemon). Next, we traveled to Ravello, where our guide pointed out highlights and gave suggestions before giving us about two hours of free time. Finally, we returned to Sorrento in the early evening. Overall, I found the tour to strike a good balance between structured activities and free time, eliminating the hassle of logistics and navigating the region's winding roads.
For my visit to Capri, I found that opting for a tour was the most convenient choice. While figuring out the ferry from Sorrento is relatively straightforward, upon arrival in Capri, instead of navigating the process of purchasing bus tickets, locating bus stops and queuing up, a bus was readily available to transport us around the island. With our group of 15 people, the tour was efficiently managed. Additionally, the tour guides, equipped with local contacts, were able to orchestrate the day's activities in the most efficient order, ensuring we made the most of our time on the island.
During our tour, our first stop was the Blue Grotto. Thanks to our tour arrangements, we avoided any wait times, and we completed our visit just in time — approximately 45 minutes before its closure due to high waves and wind. The road leading to the Blue Grotto doesn't permit public buses, so those not part of a tour group should anticipate some walking. Had we attempted to visit the Blue Grotto independently, we would have likely arrived only to find it closed for the day, leading to disappointment. As the winds picked up, our itinerary shifted, and we headed to Anacapri instead of our scheduled boat tour. Here, our guide provided suggestions for activities, and we enjoyed roughly three hours of free time. We chose to ascend to Monte Solaro via chairlift, indulged in some window shopping and savored a leisurely lunch. Later, we explored Capri, again with free time allotted. With improving weather conditions, our guide arranged a boat tour around the island and through the Faraglioni rocks. Finally, we returned to Sorrento via ferry in the early evening.
Our guide's meticulous planning ensured that we made the most of every moment, with multiple plans in place and activities timed to perfection. Investing in the tour proved invaluable, offering a day filled with adventure, sightseeing and ample free time for personal exploration.
It's completely doable on your own, especially if you've been to the area before, know what to expect, understand the layout and have a relaxed to-do list. However, I highly recommend a guide to make the most of your valuable time and for first-timers.
Need to know
The Amalfi Coast, Sorrento and Capri provide idyllic settings for various travelers, including couples in search of romance, groups of friends seeking a getaway, families with teenagers, adventurous souls and solo travelers. However, it's worth noting that the region may not be the best fit for younger children. I'm excited to help tailor your perfect itinerary and organize tours, ensuring you maximize your experience on the stunning Amalfi Coast.
This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Amalfi Coast. In need of further inspiration? Check out Jonah Muyano’s guide, Things to Do in Amalfi, Italy.
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Amy Maass
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