Bali Beyond the Beaches: A Rainforest Escape at Alila Ubud

Day 1: Relaxing at Alila

Bali, finally. I have always dreamed of going to Bali and knew I was instantly going to fall in love with it upon arrival. About two hours from the airport, we reached Alila Ubud, passing incredible rice fields and entering a lush rainforest sanctuary. I traveled in January — Bali’s rainy season — which made the landscape even greener and more vibrant.

From the start, Alila Ubud’s service was impeccable. The staff greeted us warmly, helped with our bags and welcomed us with iced ginger tea and cold towels. They even upgraded our room to a Forest Edge Villa. The villa features a massive terrace overlooking the rainforest, where we could hear the peaceful sounds of birds, insects and wildlife. The villa was spacious, with a large closet, vanity, a bathtub with a view and a thoughtful spa gift — face mist and bug spray that smelled good!

After a long flight, we spent the first day unwinding at the resort, swimming in the infinity pool that overlooked both the rice fields and the rainforest. Monkeys roamed freely, entertaining us with their antics. Since we were celebrating both of our 30th birthdays, the staff surprised us with a birthday cake at lunch — such a thoughtful touch. The food was fantastic, offering a mix of local flavors and comforting Western options to ease us into new cuisines.

I had previously met Melly, the resort manager, in London, and she kindly stopped by that evening to welcome me personally. She was wonderful throughout our stay, always checking in and offering assistance when needed. The staff were incredibly friendly, greeting us every time we passed. One staff member was even responsible for chasing monkeys away, as they had no fear of humans and often tried to steal food and valuables. When we asked if they were friendly, the response was a simple, “No.”

Day 2: Spiritual healing, Ubud Center, spa & rice fields

We woke up early for a Melukat Blessing, a traditional spiritual healing experience. To say it was authentic would be an understatement! Unlike the typical Pura Tirta Empul temple experiences, ours was more local, with only Balinese people making their daily offerings. As spiritual individuals, we wished for more context to connect with the rituals, but it was still fascinating to be so immersed in a culture we knew little about.

The blessing took place at a small community temple about 15 minutes from Alila Ubud. We learned that in Bali, temples exist at the village, community and family levels. A priest performed a purification ritual with chants, water, flowers and rice. Though we had a guide who gave some explanations, we would have loved deeper insights into the significance of each step. Still, it was an incredible cultural experience. On the way back, we passed rice fields and asked our driver if there were snakes. He cheerfully replied, “Oh yes, snakes are our friends!” Not exactly music to my ears, but good to know.

Breakfast at Alila was amazing — so many fresh fruits and juices. We then took the hotel’s complimentary shuttle into Ubud, about 20 minutes away. The town was hectic but full of character, with temples on every corner and lush greenery despite the bustling streets. We explored the markets, bargaining our way through souvenirs, wall decor, clothes, Buddha knick-knacks and incense. We made the collective decision to skip the Monkey Forest. We had already seen plenty of monkeys at Alila. After hearing horror stories (and watching too many TikToks) of people getting their valuables stolen or even bitten, we decided to pass. If you're staying in Ubud Center, the Monkey Forest might be a nice escape into nature, but at Alila, you're already surrounded by it!

In the afternoon, we treated ourselves to the spa, which had so many incredible treatments to choose from. I got the 90-minute Rainforest Treatment, and my pregnant friend had a special prenatal option. The treatment was set in an open-air area in the rainforest, where you could hear the peaceful sounds of nature all around. Unfortunately, within 10 minutes, I was getting eaten alive by mosquitoes — it was painful. The staff was so kind, immediately moving me inside so I could truly relax.

Afterward, we explored the rice fields on the hotel grounds. Alila offers complimentary activities like yoga, guided walks and Tai Chi, but our schedule was packed, so unfortunately, we weren’t able to join. The rice fields were breathtaking, especially at sunset, with volcanoes in the distance. Seeing a farmer harvest the rice was inspiring — they work incredibly hard.

Back in my room, I found an assortment of complimentary appetizers and desserts — an apology for the mosquitos during my massage. I was the one who felt bad about that, they shouldn’t have, but this was such a thoughtful gesture! The staff even gifted us with personalized luggage tags. Their hospitality was truly above and beyond.

Day 3: Mt. Batur Trek & Tegalalang Rice Terrace

We woke at 2 am for our Mt. Batur hike, Bali’s second-highest volcano. We booked the tour through Project Expedition and drove an hour north, starting our trek at 4:30 am in complete darkness. Our guide was wonderful, but unfortunately, two others in our group showed up unprepared (hiking in Crocs!), so she had to stay back with them. Since we’re pretty athletic, she let us go ahead on our own, ensuring we didn’t miss the sunrise.

The hike was moderate, with a bit of scrambling, and took about 1.5 hours. As we climbed, a young local girl joined us. At first, we thought she was selling something, but she explained that she hikes the mountain every day before school to sell drinks, bringing the money home to her family. She was fast, adorable and so hardworking — we were happy to support her.

As we climbed, we started seeing pink skies in the distance — a relief, since we were worried the rain would block the sunrise. The clouds cleared just in time for the most unreal view — multiple volcanoes, including Mt. Agung, with clouds settled over Lake Batur and the ocean in the distance. Absolutely breathtaking. The summit was full of mischievous monkeys, stealing food and even chasing me while I tried to take a photo!

If I were to do it again, I’d skip hiring a guide. The trail is well-marked, crowded with hikers and easy to follow.

On our way back, we stopped at Tegalalang Rice Terrace, a stunningly layered landscape of deep green. Watching the farmers work in the heat was humbling.

We spent our last afternoon at Alila, savoring another delicious breakfast (our favorite meal!) and lounging by the pool. What an incredible, relaxing start to our Bali adventure!

• Bring bug spray, charcoal pills and any other anti-nausea medication if you’re not used to the cuisine.

• Do not drink the water.

• The rainy season was a really nice time to go. We got rain for some parts of the day, but overall, had some really nice sunny days, and much fewer crowds!

• Research authentic spiritual healing experiences and make sure they have good English translations to ensure you can truly connect with the experience.

• Always bargain at the markets and some stores!

• Leave room in your suitcase for shopping!

• Be very careful with the monkeys. Don’t get too close.

• Get a ride to the trailhead to Mt. Batur versus booking a tour if you’re an experienced hiker.

• Get to the Tegalang Rice Terrace early to beat the heat and the crowds.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Bali page.