Curator’s statement
Capri and Ischia are the islands off the coast of Naples that get ALL the attention, but Procida is absolutely worth a visit, especially if you yearn to get away from the throngs of international tourists during the summer months. Used as the setting for The Talented Mr. Ripley and the Italian movie Il Postino, this tiny island is charming and an easy day trip from Naples.
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Start your day by catching a ferry. Ferries depart every day all year-round from Naples. The travel time on the slow ferry is about an hour, and just 45 minutes on the faster boat.
As soon as you get off the boat, head straight across the street to Bar Capriccio for the local pastry specialty La Lingua di Procida. These tongue-shaped pastries are stuffed with cream and sprinkled with granulated sugar. There are several flavors, but in a region known for its lemons, get the lemon one. Don’t forget to have a cappuccino or espresso too.
Procida is easily explored using the public bus system. Look for the closest bus stop sign and hop on either the L1 or L2 bus. Bus fares are paid cash only onboard, so make sure you have some small euro bills and coins ready. Now hold on for the ride – Procida’s streets are very narrow and watching the bus drivers navigate traffic is truly some kind of miracle.
Get off the bus at an orange building next to a long staircase leading down to Spiaggia della Chiaia. Don’t be afraid to ask the bus driver or another passenger to alert you when you get close. Follow the steps down to the beach, rent a chair and umbrella if you like or head off past the chair to the left or right for the free beach.
When hunger strikes, you don’t have to go far. Ristorante La Conchiglia da Tonino is directly on the beach with a full menu and beautiful views out over the water.
When you’ve had enough fun in the sun, head back up the stairs, all 179 of them (yes, I counted) and catch the bus again. This time, don’t go all the way back to the port. Get off at Piazza Dei Martiri and walk up Salito Castello towards Santa Margherita Nuova church. This is where you get that infamous Instagram picture overlooking the colorful houses of Marina di Corricella.
Once you get THE shot, do some shopping as you walk the rest of the way down to the port, making sure to stop at Maccaria Procida.
And finally, finish your day with a pre-departure aperitivo or lemon granita (or BOTH) at Bar dal Cavaliere while watching the action in the marina before catching the ferry back to undefined Naples.
Need to know
Procida would be an excellent addition to any southern Italy itinerary!
This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Procida, Naples. In need of further inspiration? Check out Tracey Clark’s guide, Guide to Naples, Italy: Food, Art & Culture.
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