How to Hike Cinque Terre in One Day From La Spezia

The goal today is to hike from Riomaggiore to Manarola. Then take the train to Corniglia because the path is closed. Hike Corniglia to Vernazza, then onto Monterosso, and return to our cruise ship with time to spare.

Arrival into Riomaggiore in the early morning

How did we do?

• 7 am: Oceania's Mariner docks at La Spezia.

• 7:27 am: Ride the shuttle from the ship to the cruise terminal.

• 7:34 am: Pop into a taxi. Instead of paying $15 euros to go to the train station to catch the 8:15 train, pay $45 euros for a fast 20-minute ride into Riomaggiore.

• 8 am: Ask to be dropped off at the top of Riomaggiore so you can hike down and around. Revel in the beauty and solitude in the glorious early morning before the crowds arrive.

• 8:35–8:45 am: Stroll Lovers Lane or Via Dell'Amore, the easy, paved half-mile from Riomaggiore to Manarola. At the little entry gate, you need to show a time-stamped ticket (which you bought online ahead of time).

Riomaggiore to Manarola

• 8:45–9:20 am: Wander Manarola, going up for the best views, and down by the sea. Steps are steep, uneven and can be slick from rain, so be careful.

Steep, slippery, uneven steps along the trails

• 9:36 am: Because the main path from Manarola to Corniglia is closed due to landslides and uneven terrain, and you don't have enough time to take the longer, high route, take the train to Corniglia, using the pass you bought online beforehand.

Corniglia atop the cliff and Manarola behind

• 9:40 am: Arrive in Corniglia. There's a long line waiting for the 10 am bus up to town. So, just walk up along the curving road (easier than taking the grueling 385 steps). Wander around Corniglia.

• 10:30: After some misdirection, finally find the 2.5 mile route to Vernazza. This will be your main challenging hike of the day, with awesome rewards.
  
  Not long after you start, you'll hear some music and come across an enterprising accordion player with his dog and a tip box. This route is tough going down, with many steep, uneven slick steps.
  
  Look behind you now and then to see the beautiful views of Corniglia on its hilltop with Manarola in the distance behind.
  
  Around the halfway point, there are shops offering snacks and drinks (try the tart lemonade), water to refill your hiking bottles, and bathrooms.

• Noon: You'll get the first sensational views of Vernazza, jutting out into the sea. In the distance is Monterosso, the last of the five Cinque Terre towns.

• 12:30 pm: Wander Vernazza and grab a snack. Then ponder whether to tackle the next 2.5 miles to Monterosso.
  
  By now, I had gone 22,700 steps and 8.3 miles, yet felt more fatigued than expected. Then I realized it was elevation: my Apple Health monitor said I had walked 90 floors. Hiking on to Monterosso would take another two hours-plus up and down a mountainous path. Aside from the exertion needed, the clock was ticking. The plan is to catch the 3:25 ferry back to La Spezia.

First views of Vernazza

• 12:44 pm: Instead of hiking (which you really want to do), wisely take the train from Vernazza to Monterosso. Enjoy this large resort town, where tour groups from your cruise ship hang out and have a well-deserved lunch and drink. From here, you can see the other four towns faintly in the distance.

Monterrosso, the last and largest Cinque Terre town

• 2:25 pm: Take the earlier ferry back to Le Spezia ($30 euros). It can be very cold, so make sure to pack warm garb. The ferry stops at each town, except Corniglia, which does not have a port. The views are spectacular from the water, giving a different perspective than you had all day. Porto Venere, the last stop before La Spezia, is also very pretty.

Manarola from the ferry

• 4:30 pm: Arrive in the La Spezia port, and walk a short distance to the ship.

Give yourself a big pat on the back for an amazing day hiking Cinque Terre: 10 miles: 27,000 steps. 102 floors.

• Before you go: Make sure to check the condition of the Cinque Terre trails as well as the ferry, both of which are weather dependent. Have a backup plan for using the train if the ferries are not running. Buy your tickets ahead of time online.

• Packing for the day: Check the weather forecast and pack appropriately. Make sure to have plenty of water for the hikes, though you can refill along the way. Bring flip-flops to change into after your hike, and a jacket for the ferry.

For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Italy page.