Chamonix, a Skier's Dream

I dreamt of this. The crystal white peaks. The vast expanses. The chill. The crisp sounds of snow yielding underneath the ski. Buckles snapping, boots clipping in.

Chamonix had been a long time coming. Years ago, as my group pulled away from the station in Zermatt, the Matterhorn slowly shrinking in the background, we remarked- "Next year, in Chamonix." Two weddings, and four children later, we made it.

A direct flight into Geneva, we were picked up at Arrivals. An hour later, we had crossed into France and were pulling into the Chamonix Mont-Blanc valley. The mountains surround this cozy town. Behind the iconic French facades, patisseries, chocolatiers and cafes mix in with gear shops, boutiques and a relaxed dining scene. Moncler makes an appearance, but the other labels have flocked elsewhere, perhaps Courcheval. You can pick up bottles at Vin Sur Vin, and across the way, O'Garde Manger was a highlight. Do not miss La Maison Carrier, Rose du Pont, or Joséphine. We didn't get to Mumma, but it was on our list. And the crescendo, the 1* Michelin, Albert 1er, dazzled each of our palettes.

The Après scene is buzzy. Starts off at the terrace at Le Folie Douche, and descends from there, into Chambre Nouf, Elevation 1904 and the bars on Rue des Moulins.

There are a number of hotels, three of which are compelling. La Folie Douche, the party hotel. High on design, a touch lacking in service, but a solid choice for the cost-conscious traveler who doesn't mind being in a scene. Hameau Albert 1er, is the Relais and Chateau, a hamlet tucked into town. The two buildings vary in design and aesthetics. There are family options and a couple stand alone chalets. Excellent gastronomy at 1er.

And then there's Hotel Mont-Blanc, sparkling in the sunshine. I will be honest, I’m a biased reviewer. Hotel Mont-Blanc is my perfect hotel. It’s a postcard boutique. The blue shutters adorning the facade make me smile. The simple, cozy design of the rooms warms my heart. I died for the moulding in the lobby. The steam coming off the pool on our few chilly days enticed me to dive in. The teeny but lovely spa facilities were enough.

In terms of specs: 41 keys, 18 Jr suites, 1 two bedroom family suite (K + 2 Singles) and 1 two bedroom duplex suite (K + K). There is one connecting option per floor.

I’m a skier. I don’t need much. Hotel Mont Blanc spoiled us. On demand shuttle to and from the base (and around town). We were set up with discounted rentals from Sanglard, which were delivered into our ski locker after we were fitted. We were able to buy our lift tickets right from the concierge, who also set us up with a mountain guide for two half days. I love a mountain guide, #1 as the group navigator. It's so nice not having to navigate and #2 gives you a lay of the land and inside knowledge of the pistes. Skiing with a local is priceless. You get a low key authenticity and a view of the mountain that you can’t recreate elsewhere. There are 5 bases in the Valley. We skied 3: Le Flegere, Le Brevant and Le Tour/Balme.

Our guide kept reminding me, “Jenn, look where you’re skiing, not at the mountains.” I just couldn’t help myself. I had found my beach.

If you're looking to ski the French Alps, Chamonix is an excellent base. Reach out to me for the inside scoop on everything ski!

This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Chamonix. In need of further inspiration? Check out Jenny Walz’s guide, The Perfect Ski Resort for All Travelers: Chamonix, France.