Off-the-Beaten-Path in Indonesia

Our adventure in Indonesia was divided into three segments. After an ultra-long-haul flight from Los Angeles to Jakarta, we stayed overnight at the Anara Airport Hotel, hoping to depart early morning for Borneo. The airport hotel at Soekarno-Hatta International Airport is a 4-star basic option for those using Jakarta as a point of entry into Indonesia and leaving promptly, as we were scheduled to do on Nam Air the following morning to Iskandar Airport. The best-laid plans can always throw a curveball when traveling. First lesson learned, Nam Air is not the recommended airline to fly within Indonesia. Flights are frequently canceled, and we waited for six hours in the airport before being told we were being rebooked the following day to Borneo. This domino effect on the rest of our itinerary would have been a massive headache had we not used a Destination Management Company based in Indonesia with ground contacts to handle our last-minute needs. We were rebooked immediately for an early flight the following morning on a different airline, Citilink, and transferred out of the airport to the Grand Hyatt Jakarta. The Grand Hyatt Jakarta is a lovely 5-star hotel in downtown Jakarta that is a great option if you have more than a day in the city. They offer access to the renovated Grand Club for World of Hyatt Globalist members and guests with lovely all-day refreshments, breakfast, afternoon teas and evening cocktails. Traffic in Jakarta is very heavy, so getting to and from the airport takes time, so best to stay here if you have a longer layover. Side note, the hotel is attached to a wonderful shopping mall with great stores and restaurants.

A day later, our Citilink flight departed for Pangkalan Bun, Kalimantan. Part one of our journey began as we transferred to the port of Kumai to board a Wow Borneo wooden river boat called the Kumai Klotok for two nights and three days. This company offers two- and three-night stays on renovated traditional klotoks, or wooden river boats, measuring about 18 meters by 3 meters, with a comfortable deck where you can view the rain forest as it glides by. The boat has three air-conditioned rooms below deck. These are very basic accommodations. The boat crew includes the boatman, a cook, assistant cook and an English-speaking guide. They cook homemade Asian fusion meals served around the dining table on the deck. We spent three days exploring Tanjung Puting National Park and its surrounding areas, mainly to see the orangutans in the wild and experience a rustic river adventure. Included in your river cruise are all meals, mineral water, entrance permits and ranger donations.

Our first stop was at Tanjung Harapan, a rehabilitation center for orangutans. After a short walk in the forest, we saw our first feeding platform. The rangers put sweet potatoes and bananas on a platform at the same time every day. They call these amazing apes in the forest to come and eat as they please. If they are hungry, they will make their way to the platform to sit and enjoy the plentiful array of snacks. There are benches for viewers to watch that are roped off so as not to get to close to the platform and give the orangutans space and respect. That said, a mom, with her baby on her back, stepped on my foot as she made her way past me under the ropes to make it to the platform. It was exhilarating. Life on the river is spent at a slower pace, listening to the sounds of the jungle, looking for proboscis monkeys and fireflies. The next day, we visited the famous Camp Leakey, where the older orangutans are reintroduced to the rainforest. We explored the original research station and historical displays. Camp Leakey was established in 1971 by Dr. Birute Galdikas and Rod Brindamour to continue the study of wild orangutans in Southeast Asia as well as to rehabilitate and protect these beautiful creatures from becoming extinct. Although rustic, the experience was incredible, leaving us filled with beautiful memories of life at a slower pace, surrounded by nature and the sounds of the jungle in a world very far away.

Part two of our Indonesian adventure included two flights to Labuan Bajo and a one-night stay at Ayana Komodo Resort, the only 5-star resort on Flores Island's Waecicu Beach, set in one of the most rugged and picturesque islands of the Indonesian Archipelago. This spectacular resort is the gateway to Komodo National Park and where we boarded our Aqua Blu yacht for a seven-day voyage through the islands with Aqua Expeditions. We were originally scheduled for a two-night stay at this incredible resort, though we did lose one after an extra night in Jakarta. It's important to note that this is the value of hiring an advisor with contacts in the destinations you are visiting. They make these changes seamlessly. Behind the scenes, they dealt with flights and hotel changes last minute, without any disruption to us.

Ayana Komodo Resort is a dream property offering 13 suites and 192 premium guest rooms, all featuring flawless ocean views with large windows to capture the glow of tropical sunsets that melt behind Kukusan Island. Our full ocean-view suite had a luxurious master bedroom and spacious living area with a state-of-the-art bathroom. We had a fabulous dinner on the beach at the KISIK Seafood Restaurant, which offered fresh seafood barbecue as we nestled our toes in the sand. The breakfast buffet at Rinca was one of the most elaborate offerings I have ever seen at any property around the world. We spent the day lounging by the infinity pool with fresh coconut water. Later, we took a with a walk on the private jetty to the bar and enjoyed a swim in the crystal blue warm waters to the floating dock and back. This five-star property surpassed all expectations and is a gem of a property. It's just an hour flight from Bali and offers a myriad of experiences from family and romantic to adventure. A definite "must" for anyone wanting to enjoy a magical experience, less touristy and lots of activities in a true luxury setting.

Our "main event" in this region was a seven-night voyage with Aqua Expeditions aboard the Aqua Blu yacht, sailing from Labuan Bajo to Bali, uncovering the best of the Nusa Tenggara archipelago. Aqua Blu is a modern yacht with a grand legacy as a British Naval Explorer. It features 15 suites, accommodates a maximum of 30 guests and offers several different itineraries in Indonesia. We stayed in a category two suite located on the main deck. We had a luxurious room with a king bed, a sofa bed, three large windows and a deluxe ensuite bathroom with a spacious walk-in shower and rain shower. Each room is fully air-conditioned and equipped with pampering organic hair and bath amenities. The yacht has five decks and 30 crew members to serve your every need. It has a large sundeck with a small spa pool. There is no gym, however morning yoga and weights are available. They do offer fantastic massages onboard as well. It is true luxury combined with adventure. Our voyage included visits to Gilli Lawa, Padar Islands, Horseshoe Bay, Pink Beach, Komodo Island, Saleh Bay, Sumbawa and Moyo Island. This all-inclusive experience offers incredible meals, fine wines and beer, twice daily excursions with expert local guides, snorkeling and diving equipment and wetsuits, kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding equipment, high-speed internet, laundry services and transportation to and from the vessel. We were extremely impressed with the incredible service and attention to detail on this expedition. We were 25 people on our intimate voyage and essentially did all activities as a group. Each night we gathered for "sundowners" and appetizers to learn about our upcoming day's schedule. Typically, breakfast was served from 7 to 8 am before the first activity began. In this region, the marine life is rich and there are incredible diving and snorkeling opportunities. I am a certified scuba diver and my husband is not. They allow eight divers to sign up with a valid certification in advance. I did not realize I had become a member of Aqua Blu Team Scuba. We went on seven dives in seven days. It was a dream. My husband, along with the snorkelers, left within 15 minutes of the divers and generally saw the same incredible wildlife. Highlights of the marine life included manta rays, sting rays, sharks, turtles, cuddlefish, octopus, rich coral life and micro-organisms too numerous to mention. The diving and snorkeling in this region rivals the best locations in the world, with clear turquoise warm waters and thousands of fish species. Aside from diving and snorkeling, highlights of this voyage included a visit to the Komodo Dragons, an epic private swim with whale sharks, hiking in Padar, a beach party on Pink Beach in Horseshoe Bay, village dancing and a hike to a waterfall on Moyo Island. We enjoyed stunning sunsets, including watching the fruit bats fly over us one evening. In between excursions, we enjoyed lectures on marine life, whale sharks, the history of the islands and even a cooking demonstration. Each day brought a new series of adventures and each evening a glimpse at the day ahead. I cannot recommend Aqua Expeditions highly enough. The fellow passengers were from all over the world and the most well-traveled individuals I have ever met. It was incredible to share travel stories and bond over the love of exploration and discovery. We were so enamored with the overall experience that we have booked another expedition with them on Aqua Nera, a river boat voyage they offer in the Peruvian Amazon, in July.

Part three of our Indonesian adventure continued with a flight back to Jakarta followed by a four-hour drive to a remote area in West Java called Sukabumi. We stayed at the Hotel Santika Sukabumi, due to its proximity to our main event, which was to visit the ancient megalithic site of Gunung Padang. The Gunung Padang Megalithic site is the subject of extensive debate and speculation among archeologists and researchers. Some believe it is a man-made step pyramid dating back thousands of years, while others argue it could be an ancient ceremonial site. The unique stepped terraces and alignments of the stone have fueled theories of its connection to celestial bodies. The complexity and age of the site, dating back 16,000 - 27,000 years, continues to spark discussions and further research as it is the oldest pyramid in the world. It is considered one of the largest megalithic structures in Southeast Asia, covering an extensive area of more than 62 acres. It was an absolute honor to visit this archeological gem and take a step back in time to unravel the mysteries of an ancient civilization. We began our tour of this site escorted by one of the famed researchers, Ucef Maulana, featured in Netflix's documentary The Ancient Apocalypse. He was with us to explain the science and research behind this site. We also had Josef, a local guide, with us to discuss the sacred site, including its mythology: some Sudanese people believe the site is the result of King Siliangi's attempt to build a palace in one night.

The complex is a step pyramid with five terraces that become smaller with elevation. It is accessed by a central staircase of 370 steps at an incline of 45 degrees. In Sudanese, the word "Padang" means light. Studies from the past have not been able to explain where the rock foundation came from or who made it. Stories have been passed down from generation to generation by local residents, suggesting that each of the terraces hold deep spiritual meanings. We really enjoyed the thought-provoking discussions of nature versus man that the site prompted. We saw breathtaking archeological feats in scenic surroundings and experienced something very few have seen in the world.

The villages were mainly Muslim and very friendly along the way. They offered us local food and teas and wanted to take "selfies" with us. We left the site feeling a sense of awe and curiosity. After our visit, our driver took us to one of the many waterfalls to end our visit. We watched the local women canyoneering down the falls fearlessly. We were thousands of miles from home, in a village very far away, and I stood in front of a waterfall with a triple rainbow behind me as I bid farewell to Indonesia after a journey I will never forget.

Here are some important things to keep in mind when traveling to the areas I have visited on this journey. We went in May. This is a perfect time to visit Borneo, as it is the beginning of the dry season without the crowds. The river boats are very congested and crowded during the peak season of July and August, making it not such a special, unique experience. It is necessary to be up on your vaccines for this area as well as take malaria precautions. The dress code was very casual everywhere and we packed mostly hiking gear with the option for long pants and long-sleeved shirts to protect from insects. It is important to bring lightweight, breathable fabrics due to heat and high humidity. Aqua Blu has a no-shoe policy onboard, and they gather your shoes when you leave on an excursion and return them to your room — clean. Although we did a lot of adventure on this trip, it was not necessary to be super fit or young. Most of the guests along the way were couples or families with older children. We chose to create this itinerary based on exactly what we wanted to see and do in this particular country. It is important to do your research and be clear about your expectations when planning your trips. We combined rustic accommodations to see the orangutans with luxury yachting through the Komodo Islands and then a completely remote experience in West Java. We knew what to expect at each stage of the trip, making it so much more enjoyable. West Java was a choice we made, and I am so happy we did. It was a step back in time, yet an opportunity to see the local villages and indulge in their culture. There was little to no English spoken, and no alcohol to be found except in bootleg liquor stores that were few and far between, mostly selling Bintang Beer. It is important to carry some local currency with you as some areas only take cash. The most important gift I can offer my clients is an opportunity to dream outside the box. Let's curate your dream itinerary together.

This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Indonesia. In need of further inspiration? Check out Isabel Smallman’s guide, Immerse Yourself in Indonesia.