Curator’s statement
After years of bad luck chasing the Northern Lights, my patience finally paid off on my recent southbound Coastal Express cruise. Sailing Hurtigruten’s Polarlys from Kirkenes to Bergen, I spent the week immersing myself in Norway’s idyllic scenery and rich history. This is an exceptional trip for clients looking for a chance to relax and recharge in the Arctic.
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No cruise line knows this coastline better than Hurtigruten. They have connected Norway’s small towns since 1893 and nowadays cater to overnight travelers all year round. I arranged a fall sailing for lighter crowds and darker nights along their signature route.

I first flew to Oslo for a stopover, visiting City Hall, the Opera House and The Royal Palace during my short stay; with another short flight, I arrived in Kirkenes. This small town deep in the Arctic Circle is home to Snowhotel, a hotel made entirely of ice and snow. Pack plenty of warm clothes because Arctic Norway is windy and the weather changes all day long.
The Hurtigruten team welcomed us onboard and I explored the spacious outdoor decks and beautiful panoramic lounge. My Arctic Superior cabin had a large picture window, heated bathroom flooring and plenty of storage. The most important feature in the room is the phone, which you can set to be notified for Northern Lights.


With over 30 stops, there are lots of opportunities to go ashore. Some stops last only a few minutes - just enough time to offload cargo and day passengers; however, many stops offer a couple of hours to explore.
The best way to maximize time is to sign up for excursions offered by Hurtigruten. For the most part, they begin in one port and then rejoin the ship later in the day somewhere else. I opted for four:
The Northernmost Town in the World: Explore Hammerfest including the Museum of Reconstruction and the UNESCO-listed Meridian Colum.
A Taste of Vesterålen: Attend a short service at a 13th-century medieval stone church and visit the Trondenes Historical Center.
Sea Eagle Safari: Watch the sea eagles and other wildlife from a scenic boat tour through the dramatic mountainsides of the legendary Trollfjord.
Magnificent Marble Mine: Sail in a raft through the Bergtatt marble and limestone mine and enjoy beautiful views driving along the famous Atlantic Ocean Road.

The safari and mine activities were among the best excursions I have experienced in Europe. In other cities, like Trondheim and Tromsø, I appreciated the flexibility to venture myself into town. The biggest highlight was getting the Northern Lights announcement and racing outside to see for myself on the final night.
The heart of the fjords, Bergen, is the perfect city to end a vacation. Its UNESCO-listed harbor is the highlight, but I also recommend taking the funicular to the top of the city for incredible aerial views. There’s even a bar at the top for a refreshing drink on a sunny day.


Need to know
I recommend sailing the Coastal Express if you’re looking for an unpretentious, adventurous vacation. There are even plenty of activities available for those with limited mobility. Get in touch and let me help you plan your Norwegian vacation!
For more inspiration and insider recommendations, visit our Cruises page.

Travel Advisor
Aly Rasmussen

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