Fine Dining and Agritourism in Sorrento, Italy

La Cocumella

A recent trip to Sorrento in Compania, Italy, was an agriculture and cuisine odyssey. A private car whisked us from Naples International Airport to the coast road for a sunset photo and then on to the oldest hotel on the Sorrento Peninsula, Grand Hotel Cocumella, affectionately known as “La Cocumella." Nestled in wondrous gardens with a stunning terrace overlooking the Gulf of Naples, the hotel has been a sanctuary for illustrious guests such as Goethe and Mary Shelley for hundreds of years.

On arrival the cheerful and clever concierge, Guiseppe, welcomed us by name as the bell staff discreetly took our luggage to our suite. We stretched our legs along palm-lined paths, under dangling gourd vines, and down an enchanting staircase to the private beach and dock before devouring an excellent bowl of mussels at the main restaurant, Scintilla. Charm is tucked into every nook. Leaving dinner sated, I glimpsed an alcove turned jewelbox of a bar set back from the main hall. The friendly bartender beckoned us for amari with a friendly wave and a big smile.

Agritourism in the City of Gardens

After the gourmet breakfast buffet the next morning it was on to Piazza Tasso. We opted for the 20-minute walk overlooking the sea although Grand Hotel Cocumella also provides a complimentary shuttle. Canopied lemon groves crowned every fence and creeping vines framed every garden gate, hinting that Sorrento is an agritourism playground.

La Limonaia is a green oasis in town that offers a lovely garden, restaurant, citrus grove tours, and cooking classes. We also browsed nearby Giardini Di Cataldo’s cave-like shop of citrus products, deli food, and gelato; the kitchen; and yet another citrus grove fitted with cozy tables and chairs. If you want to see how the limoncello is made, this is the place. Tours are available.

In town we joined Francesco from Agriturismo Primaluce and headed up the mountain to his family farm. After walking the grounds, discussing the methods for making wine and olive oil, we met Francesco’s wife and daughter at their beautiful farmhouse. On the porch in a lush garden, Lea gave us hands-on lessons in making three different cheeses and pizza dough. Their daughter expertly put us through our dough-tossing paces. At last, we savored the best pizza of our trip with wine and limoncello from the farm.

Our adventure continued with an excursion to Pompeii and Mt. Vesuvius arranged by Guiseppi. We stopped at Sorrentini Family Estate Winery for lunch and wine tasting on a hillside terrace overlooking vineyards in one direction and Mt. Vesuvius in another. Pompeii was stunning in its size and sophistication. The oldest known restaurants are said to be there, and there are over 80 of them! After we hiked up and down the top third of Mt. Vesuvius our guide surprised us with a stop at quirky Terre Visuviane where we tasted everything from lemon chocolate bars to crema limoncello made with mozzarella whey. We were exhausted and it was madness and it was excellent.

Fine Dining in the Land of Sirens

My take on Sorrento’s many nicknames is that it holds many temptations. Between trips to the two Antica Sartoria shops we squeezed in quiet yet satisfying hunts for Ristorante Sant’Antonino’s verdant dining terrace hidden from the busy street, and the Grand Marina–a quiet fishing village with rustic cafes, bars, and restaurants.

Having completed our primer on local food and drink, we settled in for a master class by way of the “Profane” tasting menu at Michelin-starred Ristorante Terrazza Bosquet in the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria. From our table overlooking the harbor we enjoyed a theatrical, generous, and delightful tasting menu with a wine pairing. With a brief consultation about preferences, Sommelier Natale Sicignano delivered perfect glass after perfect glass.

Courses such as “Spatial Concept", Waiting (Lucio Fontana)” were mesmerizing. One of the dessert courses was petits-fours served in a large-scale corno, a talisman in Neapolitan culture that is said to bring good luck when rubbed. Some diners in the room refused to touch it, and for them the wait staff graciously revealed the treats inside. At our table we dived right in. For the finale, Executive Chef Antonino Montefusco himself served the finale: “Suspended Coffee”.

Meanwhile, the caring and thoughtful staff at Grand Hotel Cocumella were apparently worried we might go undernourished and snuck treats and gifts into our room at every opportunity. A parting gift of local orange preserves gave us the strength to tear ourselves away at the end of our memorable visit.

I recommend the city of Sorrento to my clients as a fun and interesting introduction to the Sorrento Peninsula. With stunning views, excellent hotels, acclaimed restaurants, ample shopping, and transportation services, Sorrento is an excellent hub for excursions to archeological sites and the islands of the Gulf of Naples.

This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Sorrento. In need of further inspiration? Check out Hannah Lely’s guide, A Week in Sorrento, Italy.