The Crazy Adventure of Comoros; Whales & Beaches

The Comoros, a hidden gem in the Indian Ocean, offers a unique blend of African, Omani and French influences. This archipelago, consisting of three main islands, provides a diverse and fascinating journey. Over two weeks, I explored the distinct characters of Grand Comore and Moheli, immersing myself in their natural beauty, rich culture and warm hospitality.

Grand Comore (Ngazidja)

- The largest and most developed island

- Home to the capital, Moroni

- Dominated by Karthala, one of the world's largest volcanoes

- More urbanized with a mix of modern and traditional elements

Moheli

- Known as the "paradise island"

- The only island with running water and waterfalls

- Renowned for its marine life and beautiful beaches

- Less developed, offering a more pristine natural environment

Anjouan

- Mostly wild and less developed

- Unfortunately, I couldn't visit due to rough seas

- Known for its hardworking people who also love to party

Culture and language

The Comorian culture is a vibrant mix of African, Omani and French influences. This diversity is beautifully reflected in the local language, Shikomori, which varies in dialect across the islands. Swahili, Arabic and French are also widely spoken, creating a rich linguistic landscape.

English speaker? Get ready for a challenge!

Local humor paints Grand Comore people as "big-headed," Moheli residents as "lazy," and Anjouan folks as hardworking party-lovers. These playful stereotypes offer insight into the inter-island dynamics and the unique character of each island's population.

The evenings in Comoros are particularly magical, with beautiful sunsets and a constant, refreshing breeze that provides relief from the tropical heat.

Island Highlights

Grand Comore

• North

- Dragon's Teeth: Unique rock formations along the coast

- Lac Salé (Salt Lake): A picturesque saltwater lake

- Trou du Prophète: A natural pool with crystal-clear water

- Mitsamiouli town: Experience local life and culture

- Maloudja Beach: One of Africa's top 10 beaches, with pristine white sand

• South

- Iconi: Home to an old palace and a beautiful beach

- Mangrove Lake: Explore the unique ecosystem

- Coelacanth fish research center: Learn about this rare, ancient fish

- Chindini Beach: Golden sands and clear waters

• Special Experiences

- Volo Volo Market visit in Moroni: Immerse yourself in the vibrant local life

- Fragrance essence production: 65 percent of global production comes from Comoros, including orange, ylang-ylang and Jasmine

- Dolphin encounter: A magical experience swimming with these intelligent creatures

- Karthala Volcano: Although I couldn't complete the hike due to bad weather, seeing its effects miles away on the beach was awe-inspiring

Moheli

- Ouallah waterfall trek: A refreshing hike through lush landscapes

- Lac Boundouni: A serene lake surrounded by nature

- Itsamia Beach: Witness turtle nesting and hatching, a truly unforgettable experience

- Niamachoua village: Small, poor village with beautiful views, friendly people and both diving centers

• Marine Activities

- Diving in the marine park (6 dives total):

- Encountered giant eels, tuna and various species of fish

- Observed unique behavior of fish, seemingly at ease with divers

- Spotted numerous lobsters and new types of nudibranchs

- Excellent visibility and beautiful coral formations, including bubble coral

- Whale watching:

- 3 whale encounters in two days

- Additional encounter with pilot whales

- Beautiful beaches: Many only accessible by boat, featuring soft white and golden sands

Practical information

- Bring 30 euros in cash for visa fee on arrival;

- Arrange transfers in advance to avoid complications, although taxis are available

- No ATMs at the airport — plan your cash needs carefully

- SIM cards available at the airport or in the city for staying connected

- Power cuts are common and unpredictable — consider bringing a portable charger

- Limited public transport — inter-island travel mostly by small boats (can be dangerous)

- All islands have airports, but flights are often canceled; be prepared for changes in plans

- Most arrangements happen upon arrival, not online — embrace the spontaneity

- Within the islands, shared taxis and bike rentals are the best transport options

- Trash is a significant problem, even in remote locations — volunteer opportunities available for clean-up (link provided for interested travelers)

Safety and etiquette

- Very safe for tourists — the last reported murder was in 1998

- Locals are incredibly hospitable and friendly

- Conservative society — always ask permission before taking photos, especially of women

- Dress modestly to respect local customs, although no issues when I wore shorts

Food

Comorian cuisine is a delightful fusion of Omani, subcontinental and French influences with local twists. The abundance of fresh, tropical ingredients makes for unforgettable flavors.

Must-try drinks:

- Fresh mango juice: A refreshing treat in the tropical climate

- Tamarind and ginger juice: A unique blend of sweet and spicy

Restaurant recommendation: Kinaza (added to Google Maps) for authentic local food. This was the only place I found serving truly local dishes, making it a must-visit for culinary enthusiasts.

This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Comoros, Africa. In need of further inspiration? Check out Anne Bisgaard’s guide, Spectacular South Africa.