Epic Swiss Ski Resorts

Andermatt-Sedrun

Andermatt-Sedrun is one of the largest but lesser-known ski domains in central Switzerland. The ensemble of the Andermatt-Sedrun-Disentis domains has been a secret favorite among snowboarders and freeriders of all levels for some time now, offering plenty of steep terrain and guaranteed deep snow and is black-diamond-rated. Epic Pass holders get unlimited, unrestricted access to Andermatt-Sedrun between December and April, at no extra cost. And new for the 2023-24 season, they also get unlimited access to the ski resort of Disentis. Altogether, that is a total of 25 fast, modern ski lifts and 85 miles of groomed slopes.

The scenic train ride across to Andermatt took just over two hours on a modern, comfortable train, equipped with reclining seats and plenty of space to stretch my legs. SBB, the Swiss Rail operator, offers the possibility to ship all luggage, including ski equipment and suitcases, and deliver it to your hotel for a very reasonable fee. Needless to say, this is exactly what I did.

In Andermatt I stayed at the Radisson Blu Hotel Reussen, a modern 4-star hotel that offers good value for money, albeit it is slightly out of the way and is devoid of any Alpine charm. Upon my arrival at the station, a member of staff greeted me and drove me to the hotel, and I quickly settled down in my spacious and modern room. The station pick-up service is complimentary, as well as the shuttle service to and from the ski lifts. This Radisson hotel also has one of the largest indoor swimming pools and spa areas in the region. However, the hotel only offers one restaurant, where a good and extensive buffet breakfast is served in the morning and with a good but not very elaborate and slightly overpriced menu available the rest of the day.

The development of Andermatt as a ski resort is relatively recent, so the choice of accommodation is not the largest, but it is certainly outstanding. If the budget allows, the swanky Chedi Andermatt is a destination, with larger than-average standard rooms at 500 sq ft, a three-story spa, gym and wellness center, with all the facilities one could wish for, also available to non-resident guests; and among other restaurants, a one-star Michelin restaurant serving some of the best Japanese fare in Switzerland. Alternatively, Andermatt Alpine Apartments offers modern and sleek accommodation in studios and 1-to-3-bedroom apartments, all with fully equipped kitchens.

Andermatt-Sedrun - Restaurant & Bar recommendations

• Andermatt has little to no nightlife to talk about, although it more than makes up for it with the quality of some of its restaurants and bars:

• Hotel Restaurant zum schwarzen Bären, Swiss fare with Italian accents; it is also a hotel.

• Gütsch, by Markus Neff, altitude Michelin starred restaurant.

• Ochsen, for Swiss traditional fare such as cheese fondue.

• Stiva Grischuna, for traditional regional cuisine in a 300-year-old chalet in Disentis.

• Restaurant Sudada, a popular eatery in Sedrun, known for their hearty food, huge Schnitzels and their famous Kaffe Sudada (see picture), a high-octane coffee with a secret recipe.

• Vinothek 1620, excellent wine selection and small bites.

• La Bonne Cave, wine bar with an impressive wine list and yummy appetizers, ideal place for après-ski.

Verbier 4 Vallées

Having wrapped up a week of great skiing in Andermatt, I set off on another magnificent train journey all the way to Verbier. This part of the trip required somewhat a bit more planning as it involved 3 train changes, and between 3 1/2 to 5 hours of travel. As in my first part of the trip, I had my luggage dispatched in advance, so I could focus on the journey itself, as it involved a ride along part of the famous Glacier Express route. It may sound daunting, but train travel in Switzerland is easy, safe, comfortable and doesn’t need to be expensive. The best option for overseas visitors is to buy a Swiss Travel Pass, bookable with Fora, which covers all train travel described in this report and more.

Verbier 4 Vallées needs little introduction, having been voted World’s Best Ski Resort 2022 at the World Ski Awards, with 93 lifts and 410km of pistes; and it is a freeriders paradise, hosting the final of the Freeride World Tour every year at the end of March. Epic Pass holders receive a total of 5 days of skiing at Verbier 4 Vallées at no extra cost and must book their accommodation directly with one of the Verbier 4 Vallées accommodation partners.

The choice of hotels in Verbier is vast and caters to all tastes and budgets, and although the choice for Epic Pass holders might be relatively limited, not for that is less appealing. I stayed at the W Verbier Hotel, offering all that is to be expected of a 5-star hotel, with the bonus of being right next to the main ski lifts in the center of town, plus some of the best views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. Rooms are cozy and elegantly decorated. The wellness area is well-appointed and offers a choice of saunas, a hammam and an indoor pool. Eat-Hola Tapas Bar also deserves a visit, whether you are staying at the hotel or not. Other Epic Pass partner hotels worth checking out include The Experimental Chalet, a quirky but attractive middle-sized, 4-star boutique hotel, albeit in a slightly out of the way location relative to the ski lifts; and Relais & Châteaux’s Le Chalet d’Adrien, a small 5-star boutique hotel with a 1-star Michelin star restaurant, located in the edge of town, right across Les Creux ski lift, with direct access to the slopes. For those on a tight budget, Hôtel A Lârze deserves a mention; this is a small but modern family hotel located in Le Châble, at the foot and right in the middle of the Verbier and Bruson chairlifts.

Verbier 4 Vallées - Restaurant & Bar recommendations:

It would be impossible to try to summarize the best food Verbier has to offer and be fair at the same time. Here’s a non-comprehensive list of some of the restaurants and bars I've tried and loved:

• Restaurant de la Côt, at the foot of the Bruson slopes, with friendly staff and top-notch bistro food by a young local chef.

• Eat-Hola Tapas Bar, the one and only tapas bar in Verbier, with creative food and excellent wines.

• Restaurant La Table d’Adrien, Italian-inspired, Michelin-starred dining in a cozy setting.

• O Bois Sauvage, fine dining restaurant at the far end of the 4 Vallées domain; not the easiest to reach but well worth the trip.

• Pub Mont Fort, good food, fair prices and perhaps the best place to go and meet your ski guide.

• Farinet, centrally located après-ski venue with live bands and DJs every night.

• 67 Pall Mall Verbier, wine club, offering the most extensive wine list in town.

Famous drink at Restaurant Sudada - Marc Vitria

The Swiss ski resorts of Andermatt and Verbier offer the perfect combination for intermediate to advanced skiers of all ages to get a sense of what skiing in Switzerland is all about. Particularly recommended to Epic Pass holders as the Pass covers both domains. Get in touch and let me help plan your next Swiss ski adventure in these and many other tried-and-tested resorts.