The Elegance of Trancoso, Bahia, Brazil

Our anticipation builds as the clearing appears on a crystal-clear night, a wide expanse of grass, showcasing a 15th-century Jesuit church, dimly shimmering in the full moonlight. Walking hand in hand, as the lanterns sway with the breeze, like captive fireflies, they give a mystical glow to the outdoor rustic-chic restaurants in the distance. A guitarist sings in Portuguese of love and loss in the clearing, playing softly, making way for the passersby. Children play a pickup game of soccer. Sundresses and flowing light gowns accent the evening, after a day of tanning at the beaches, casually flirting with the waiters as evening unfolds. This is the elegance of Trancoso, Bahia, Brazil.

There is magic in the world and Trancoso is the place! In my opinion, Trancoso is one of the places to see in Brazil! However, nothing appears as it should be. Oh, yes, there are beautiful people of Brazilian, African and European descent, of course there are boutiques of fine art, frilly shiny expensive things and designer dresses, yet none of it is precocious. The art of affluent understatement reigns here. Trancoso is not for the accidental tourist. There is a journey involved across rivers, hills and valleys. You are here because you made an intentional effort. You are here to relax. You are here to blend in and not draw attention to yourself. This is a well-refined playground.

Etnia Casa Hotel is like most things in Trancoso, a hidden magical place. There is a non-descript entrance with a plain door marker. However, upon entrance, after being warmly greeted by the manager Filipe, we walked down a finely manicured path brimming with flora and tropical trees. Down and down, we go to another wooden fence. Mind you, we can’t see any of the casas nor any details of the complex while walking down the path. When Filipe opened the gate to our casa, our mouths dropped. It was stunningly perfect for a couple.

Our Casa had two floors, two bathrooms, one elegant bedroom, a fully stocked kitchen, a porch, a sitting room and second-floor deck of refined elegance with attention to every decorative detail. It was the perfect size for a couple. The central air whooshed as we entered the sliding glass doors. Filipe showed us the amenities of our casa. A welcome letter and fresh fruit plate was perfectly presented as part of our FORA perks. Filipe asked if we were hungry; he called the kitchen located on the grounds to prepare a fantastic moqueca de peixe for us. The moqueca was fabulous and well-presented. Ladies and gentlemen, this is an important point; one can stay in the Etina Casa Hotel, cook in your private casa, or have your meals at the onsite restaurant or go out in the town. You have many wonderful options.

After lunch, Filipe gave me a tour of the other casas that were available. There are seven casas in total, with a central common area for the pool and restaurant. The casas range in size, perfect for friends, family or for couples. A magical escape from the cares of the world. A place to rejuvenate and have conversations with loved ones. The FORA perk breakfast was spectacular! Literally everything you can imagine, plus they were willing to make specialty dishes. The hospitality was fantastic! Trancoso, Bahia and the Etina Casa Hotel is a must-see in Brazil!

Trancoso is a must-see in Brazil! It is an hour journey from Porto Seguro, Brazil and worth every moment! Book with me and enjoy Filipe and his wonderful staff as they take great care of you at the Etina Casa Hotel!

This trip report is part of our ongoing series on travel to Brazil. In need of further inspiration? Check out Vinh Tran’s guide, Site Inspection at Qoya Hotel in São Paulo, Brazil.