Image courtesy of Lee Elkins
Hiking isn’t the first thing on my vacation to-do list. But it is at the top of my husband’s, so when planning our annual getaway, I had the perfect solution: the Dolomites. Starting in Venice and winding our way up to Cortina d'Ampezzo, the 7-day journey mingled challenging trails and mountain huts with the heavenly Forestis spa resort. We tackled an 8-mile trek with 1,000 meters of elevation gain, stayed in family-run rifugios complete with spritzes and cappuccinos, and ended our adventure with outdoor cold plunges and five-course dining. Trust me — even if hiking isn't your thing, this Italian getaway can satisfy both the adventurous and the spa-obsessed.
How to get to the Dolomites
Image courtesy of Lee Elkins
Venice is the closest (not the cheapest) airport, so we planned to spend a couple of nights there before renting a car to head north. Our time in Venice was purposefully relaxed, with no formal tours or reservations — the perfect prelude to our mountain adventure.
After picking up a rental car at the airport — a long process, so build in extra time — we drove about two-and-a-half hours to the charming town of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Google Maps will be your best friend navigating these twisty roads, but all routes are clearly marked (there are some tolls payable by credit card). As we made our way up into the mountains, the scenery was spectacular. It was hard to keep our eyes on the road.
Public transportation is also available and a popular option, especially for hikers who don’t need a car while in the mountains. The Cortina Express bus runs daily and is very affordable. And although trains in Italy are clean and efficient, there is no train service to Cortina d’Ampezzo.
Day 1: Cortina d’Ampezzo
This charming village was abuzz with activity when we arrived. Cranes dotted the skyline as the town was preparing to host the 2026 Winter Olympic Games, and the iconic rings were already set up — perfect for snapping a photo.
High-end stores and several outdoor gear shops mingled with local restaurants, all with the backdrop of the mountains. After an afternoon Aperol spritz and an early dinner (there may have been apple strudel), we walked back to our quaint, no-frills hotel to pack up our backpacks and get some sleep.
Favorite moment:
Sitting on a sunny terrace sipping a spritz with a view of both the Olympic Rings and the mountains.
Days 2–4: Hiking the Dolomites
Image courtesy of Lee Elkins
There are some destinations that can’t be captured in words or even photos, and the Dolomites is one of them. The peaceful green valleys and mineral-blue lakes contrast with jagged (almost intimidating) stone peaks that appear to be reaching for the sky, just daring someone to climb them. And that’s exactly what we did.
After our night in Cortina d’Ampezzo, our early-morning pickup whisked us north an hour to Lake Braies, where we started our ascent. We had about eight miles ahead of us, making this our longest hiking day at an estimated six hours. While that didn’t initially sound very far, I knew it would be a challenge because most of it would be uphill (almost 1000 meters of elevation gain). And how right I was.
It was about 45 minutes after our enthusiastic start that self-doubt began to creep in. What was I thinking when I planned this? Could I turn around and maybe get a ride? How many people have died on this trail? I kept these panicked thoughts to myself, mentally focusing on putting one foot in front of the other and stepping carefully on the rocky trail. Thankfully, my husband led us at a slow pace with scheduled stops every hour — he knew our eagerness was not replacement for alpine experience.
With our hunger spurring us on, we made it to our lunch spot: Rifugio Biella. This modest stone hut was a welcome sight, and we refueled with warm soup, hearty sandwiches and — for some extra energy — cappuccinos.
Images courtesy of Lee Elkins
After lunch, the trail gently made its way for the next couple of hours toward Rifugio Fodara Vedla. Surrounded by lavishly green meadows, a tiny chapel and grazing cows with swinging collar bells, this was the most picturesque mountain hut I’d ever seen. And after singing a few lines of The Sound of Music (really, it was that inspiring), we dropped our gear and grabbed an outdoor bench for an apéritif.
Many rifugios have been run by the same families for generations, and this one was no exception. What was once a WWI army camp was transformed into a guesthouse and is still run by family members today. Breakfast and dinner are included at the rifugios, and other meals, as well as drinks, can be purchased. Our room was charming, with a picture-perfect view of the mountains and even a private bathroom — a real luxury at the huts.
Having survived the first day, I had the confidence to tackle the shorter second day — only six miles and less elevation gain. We made it to Rifugio Lavarella by mid-afternoon, leaving time to eat lunch, go for a leisurely walk on the surrounding trails, then unwind with a game before dinner. That’s when we started hearing the whispers of those four-letter-words: snow and rain.
True to the weather reports, we awoke to snow the next morning. Our guide company had contacted us and confirmed we should take the short two-mile route back to the closest refugio we had passed the day before and take the bus back to Cortina d'Ampezzo. The unseasonably early snow would make for a very cold hike, and we hadn’t packed crampons to help with slippery conditions. A little disappointed, we trudged down to the remote bus stop and began our three-bus journey back to town.
Favorite moments:
Day 2: Finishing the hike!
Day 3: Stepping off the trail so a shepherd could lead his cattle past us.
Day 4: The hot shower back at our hotel.
Days 5–7: Guilt-free spa at Forestis
Image courtesy of Forestis
After wrapping up our hiking excursion with a final night in Cortina d’Ampezzo and saying goodbye to our friends, we headed out mid-morning on our two-hour drive to Forestis — an Instagram-inspired dream spa I'd been anticipating for years. Even though I'd thoroughly stalked the property, I failed to understand the drive to get there; turn after hairpin turn led us up a mountain pass. And with the added delight of snow, my tense muscles were more than ready for a massage upon arrival.
The property is composed of two parts: the original 1912 main lodge and three contemporary towers. Pulling up to the lodge's traditional chalet exterior, we were stunned as we stepped through the door to see the incredibly contemporary, minimalist interior. The mountains were immediately visible through a wall of glass behind the check-in stations, and everywhere we looked, blond wood finishes and sculpted stone accents indicated we were in for an incredible stay.
Image courtesy of Lee Elkins
We reserved a Tower Suite, and even though I’d seen pictures online, the view in person is indescribable. Not only did our room have a lounging area with a large L-shaped couch, but our private balcony boasted a queen-size daybed that could be made up for overnights during warmer months. And the bathroom! The dual sinks and bathtub were sculpted in the same materials as the walls and heated floor, creating a seamless, minimalist vibe.
The spa experience at Forestis astounded me. The staff were so kind and passionate about healthy living. We learned about all the saunas (different temperatures, dry, wet and herb-infused), as well as the cold plunges. And they told us how long and in what order to do each treatment, then explained the health benefits of each. Understanding that Americans are a bit more modest than Europeans, they kindly educated us on spa etiquette — no bathing suits allowed except in the pool-area sauna. So we donned our towels and followed their instructions, ending with some quiet time in one of the relaxation lounges where I swear I was levitating — it was that relaxing.
Incredible locally sourced menus, a mindfulness-focused hike through the snow woods and a couple of spa treatments rounded out our stay. Ideally, we would have spent more time at this superb property, but I was grateful to have had two unforgettable nights filled with the magic that is Forestis. This stay truly shifted what a wellness retreat means, going beyond just pampering and relaxing, and diving deeper into taking care of ourselves, mind, body and spirit.
Fora’s withIN by SLH perks at Forestis include a $50-$100 credit, daily breakfast, an upgrade and extended check-in/out whenever possible.
Favorite moments:
Day 5: Seeing the view when we first walked into our room.
Day 6: Braving the outdoor cold plunge.
Day 7: The local honey in our farewell bag.
To learn more about pairing the perfect adventure with a spa, connect with a Fora Advisor for a customized itinerary to the Dolomites.
