Fascinating Malta: 4 Days of Discovery

Arrive into Valletta via a flight, ferry or at the end of a cruise. After getting settled, wander the charming town's steep, narrow streets overlooking the Grand Harbour, popping into any number of museums.

Use your pre-booked ticket to enter St. John’s co-cathedral, built by the Order of the Knights of St John in 1577. They went broke for the baroque: that’s all 24-carat gold inside. In addition to tapestries, tombs and statues, St. John's houses the famed Beheading of St. John the Baptist, the only signed work by Caravaggio, aka Michelangelo Meris — that's the name written in blood under the blood.

Sign up for the behind-the-scenes bell tower tour, which includes the upper balcony, the clock mechanism, which dates to 1584, and the belfry.

Take a short ferry ride over to the Three Cities, the towns of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua, for great views of Valletta and to soak in the ancient ambiance.

Dine at D’office, trying the local rabbit specialty, fried fish, calamari and vegetables.

Take a tour today to sister island Gozo (accessible only by boat), including the blue lagoon at Comino. It's a long transit of bus and ferry but well worthwhile.

Visit the Ggantija Temples (giant in Maltese), dubbed "the oldest human construction in the world,” dating back to 3600 BC--before the pyramids. They've unearthed skulls, carvings, bones and more from what appeared to be ceremonial structures tied to fertility rituals.

Enjoy lunch at a seaside town before heading to Victoria (also called Rabat), Gozo's lively unofficial capital. From the square, walk up to the impressive Citadel complex, which started as an acropolis in 1500 BC. After touring the cathedral and museum, take in the impressive views of the island from the ramparts.

You'll reverse your route to return to Valletta.

Have a leisurely breakfast before heading to the Upper Barrakka Gardens and its Saluting Battery of cannons, used for defense as well as greeting friendly ships.

You'll arrive around 11, enjoy the views of the Grand Harbour and Three Cities and be in position for the daily ceremonial canon blast at noon (and 4).

Don't dawdle as you have tickets for the 1 pm special tour of the War HQ Tunnels beneath the Barrakka Gardens. These secret warrens opened in 1940 to house British forces during World War II, when Malta was bombed nearly daily.

The tunnels tie to the Lascaris War Rooms, where the Allies (including General Eisenhower) coordinated “Operation Husky,” the pivotal invasion of Sicily in July 1943. You can see restored rooms like the guarded Combined Operations room where secret communications were sent and received with encryption machines. It's where I first learned about Operation Mincemeat, “the biggest bluff of WWII”--and now a Broadway musical.

Today, try the delicious local Pastizzi pastry or Stuffat tal-Fenek, rabbit stew.

Before journeying home, you must visit the gorgeously preserved old capital of Mdina, just a 20-minute taxi ride away (or longer bus ride).

Go early before the crowds and go back in time, savoring the limestone labyrinths and stately buildings, colorful doors and intricate knockers. The Main Gate was featured in the Game of Thrones Season 1 as the entry to King's Landing.

Known as the Silent City, Mdina was the capital from about 1040 to 1530. Only local cars are allowed within its walls, adding to its serenity.

Visit the Cathedral of Saint Paul, which shares the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Malta with St. John's in Valletta. And stop into the Chapel of St Roque to admire its interior.

Then it's time to return home, filled with evocative memories of fascinating Malta.