Curator’s statement
I lived in Washington, D.C., for more than 20 years. It’s where I met my husband Steven, got married and built a life together. The city will always be one of my favorite places in the world. While it’s known for incredible museums and as the seat of government (speaking as a former Congressional intern who gave tours of the Capitol), there’s so much more to experience beyond the mall. Here are my tips to enjoy the nation’s capital the way I did as a local.
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Where to stay in Washington DC
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Things to do in Washington DC
Stay outside of the immediate downtown core
It’s tempting to stay nearby the mall and the monuments, and there are plenty of great choices if you’re planning a tourist-focused trip (hit me up for recommendations). But to experience D.C. like a local, better to rest your head in one of the vibrant neighborhoods around the city. Some favorites include: Lyle in Dupont Circle (the classic gayborhood, in a lovely residential area but close to all the action), Viceroy (on the popular 14th Street corridor and literally next door to good friends of mine), and The Line D.C. in Adams Morgan (a converted church and home to my favorite hotel bar in the city). Get in touch and I can tell you about available deals and free perks like food and beverage credits and upgrades.
You want to see U Street
Dubbed D.C.’s “Black Broadway,” U Street NW is a shopping, nightlife and cultural mecca. Visitors always delight at Ben’s Chili Bowl, but I’m a big fan of Florida Avenue Grill which calls itself “the oldest soul food restaurant in the world.” Take a stroll and try some wings with mumbo sauce, eat at one of the many Ethiopian restaurants like Abuare (the Ethiopian embassy says DC is home to the largest Ethiopian community outside Africa) and grab a drink al fresco at American Ice Company.
Stage flight
New York may be the East Coast’s best-known theater mecca, but there is a slew of performing arts options in D.C. Of course, there’s the Kennedy Center, but I love some of the more local offerings like Arena Stage, Studio Theater, or the Woolly Mammoth. One “only in D.C.” treat is catching a production at Ford’s Theater — the historic site of Lincoln’s assassination, but also still a working performance venue. For live music, you can’t miss an intimate show at the 9:30 Club or a very cozy experience at the Black Cat.
Caffeinate in the [National Portrait Gallery] courtyard
While I’m avoiding museums on this list, one of my favorite spots in the city (especially for a respite from the hustle) is at the National Portrait Gallery. After you check out the incredible Obama portraits, chill out with a coffee in the undulating glass-roofed courtyard and reenergize for your next jaunt. If you want something more substantial to eat, two José Andrés favorites are right by: Jaleo and Zaytinya.
Buy gifts tax-free at the Smithsonian shops
OK, I’m going to break the museum rule again, but for good reason. When I was a college student on a really tight budget, I did my holiday shopping at the Smithsonian gift shops where you can purchase an array of interesting items tax-free. For a twofer, grab lunch at the National Museum of the American Indian’s Mitsitam Café, the city’s hands-down best food at a tourist spot.
Nature calls
It’s not all marble edifices. D.C. has some amazing opportunities to be outdoors. The National Arboretum is a favorite, along with the nearby Kenilworth Park & Aquatic Gardens. Cutting through the heart of the city is Rock Creek Park with plenty of great walking activities, and in the middle of the Potomac River, Teddy Roosevelt Island.
Loose your voice at a DC United match
When I lived in D.C., you’d find me at every home match of my beloved D.C. United, the city’s Major League Soccer franchise. While the old days at RFK stadium hold great memories, the team’s new home of Audi Field provides a world-class soccer viewing experience. Let me know if you want to go and I’ll teach you some of the chants so you can join in like a local.
A view without the queue
Sure, the Washington Monument is nice. But have you seen the lines? Everyone seems to want to go up in the obelisk, but if you don’t want to stand around in the heat, check out the tower in the Old Post Office instead. Located in the Waldorf Astoria on Pennsylvania Avenue but run by the National Park Service, the view is postcard-worthy, it’s free, and you’ll rarely have a wait. If the Waldorf Astoria is your kind of place to stay, I can hook you up with free breakfast and wifi, on-site credit, and a room upgrade subject to availability.
Eastern | Union (Markets)
We love a market in DC and two that you’ll want to hit up are Eastern Market and Union Market. Eastern Market has been around forever and anchors the neighborhood of the same name. Fresh food is aplenty, and you’ll also enjoy the outdoor flea market across the street every Saturday and Sunday. Hot tip – go early if you want to spot some of the Marines running through the neighborhood (the Barracks are nearby). Union Market is the newer addition with a few dozen fantastic food options, eclectic shops, and a buzzy vibe, just off the popular H St. corridor.
Places to eat & drink in Washington DC
Aside from the food and drink ideas above, here are a few of my mainstays in DC:
Primrose, Brookland neighborhood
Close to where I once lived, this neighborhood gem is a little slice of Paris with a fantastic wine selection.
Bullfrog Bagels, H St. Corridor
Sorry D.C., you're not going to actually compete with NY in the bagel games, but Bullfrog is damn close.
Iron Gate, Farragut Square/Dupont Circle
In the good weather months, nothing's better than enjoying some mediterranean delights in the courtyard.
Pete's Apizza, Friendship Heights
I am a die hard New Haven pizza fan and Pete's is the best you can get outside of Connecticut. Period.
Café Saint-Ex, 14th St
14th Street stalwart with a great brunch. If they're busy, try equally good neighbor Pilar.
Dacha, Shaw
There are lots of options for seeing and being seen while enjoying a beer or cocktail, but Dacha in Shaw is the OG (and offers a nice selection of NA options). Plus the mural is the epitome of Insta-worthy.
Need to know
Travel Advisor
Michael Cole-Schwartz
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For more travel tips, check out Fora Advisor Ali Hamdany’s guide, Washington DC's Top Historical Gems: A Guide to Exploring the City's Rich Heritage. This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Washington DC.