Curator’s statement
Embarking on a four-day journey through the states of Punjab and Haryana offers travelers an opportunity to dive deep into the rich tapestry of North Indian culture, history and spirituality. This itinerary is designed to guide visitors from the streets of Chandigarh, through the sacred city of Amritsar and into the historical depths of Kurukshetra. Each location is chosen to provide a distinct perspective on the area's diverse heritage, from the architectural marvels and modern shopping malls of Chandigarh to the poignant memorials and revered temples in Amritsar and Kurukshetra.
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Background
Punjab is a state located in the northern part of India. It is bordered by the Indian states of Haryana to the south and southeast, Himachal Pradesh to the northeast and Jammu and Kashmir to the north. To its west lies the international border with Pakistan. The state capital is Chandigarh, which is also the capital for the neighboring state of Haryana.
The geography of Punjab features fertile plains and is traversed by several rivers, most notably the Sutlej, Beas and Ravi, making it one of India's most agriculturally productive regions. Historically, Punjab has been a cradle of civilization and has seen numerous cultures and empires, such as the Indus Valley Civilization, the Mauryan Empire, the Gupta Empire and various Sikh kingdoms. It holds significant importance in Sikhism, with many of the religion's major shrines, including the revered Golden Temple, located in Amritsar.
The name "Punjab" itself is derived from the Persian words "Panj" (Five) and "Aab" (Water), referring to the five major rivers that flow through the region. These rivers not only enrich the soil but have also shaped the cultural and economic life of the state.
Day 1: Chandigarh
Arrival in Chandigarh
Start your journey by flying into Chandigarh International Airport or arriving via train or bus from nearby cities. Early arrival is recommended to maximize your day.
Check into a centrally located hotel (options range from luxury to budget-friendly), and enjoy a traditional Punjabi breakfast of stuffed parathas at a local eatery.
Afternoon: Explore the Rock Garden & Sukhna Lake
Head to the Rock Garden, a remarkable eco-friendly garden spread over 40 acres, created entirely from industrial and home waste and thrown-away items. This garden showcases the creativity of Nek Chand, a former road inspector in Chandigarh.
After exploring the maze-like passages and awe-inspiring constructions, make your way to Sukhna Lake. This reservoir is a popular spot for rowing, yachting and boating. The promenade along the lake is perfect for a leisurely stroll or a cycle ride.
Evening
Spend your evening at Elante Mall, the second-largest shopping mall in Northern India, featuring a plethora of brands, a food court and a multiplex cinema. It’s a great place to sample various cuisines, shop for local handicrafts as well as international brands and relax.
A note from Phelipe
Chandigarh can experience extreme weather, with hot summers and cool winters. Dress accordingly and stay hydrated, especially if you're visiting during the warmer months. For exploring outdoor attractions like the Rock Garden and Sukhna Lake, wearing comfortable walking shoes, carrying sunscreen and having a hat or umbrella can significantly enhance your comfort.
Day 2: Chandigarh to Amritsar
Morning: Drive to Amritsar
Enjoy a scenic four-hour drive to Amritsar, the cultural capital of Punjab. En route, you can stop for a traditional Punjabi roadside meal, often consisting of fresh buttery kulchas and spicy chole (chickpeas).
Upon arrival, check into your hotel and rest a bit before heading out to explore.
Afternoon: Jallianwala Bagh & Partition Museum
Visit Jallianwala Bagh, a public garden that plays a significant role in India’s independence history. The bullet marks are still visible on the walls and a well into which many people jumped to avoid the shooting can be visited.
Next, walk to the Partition Museum, located near the Golden Temple. It’s the first museum in the world dedicated to the memory of the Partition of India in 1947, with personal stories and belongings of those who survived the tumult.
Evening: Golden Temple
End your day with a visit to Harmandir Sahib, commonly known as the Golden Temple, during the evening to witness the Palki Sahib ceremony where the Guru Granth Sahib (holy scripture) is reverently carried to its night abode. Participate in the langar – a free communal meal served to all visitors, showcasing the Sikh principle of equality.
A note from Phelipe
Visiting the Golden Temple is a profound cultural and spiritual experience. It is essential to follow local customs out of respect. This includes covering your head (headscarves are available for free at the entrance), removing your shoes before entering the temple premises and washing your feet in the small pool provided. Also, when participating in the langar, sit on the floor alongside others, which signifies equality among all people.
Day 3: Amritsar to Kurukshetra (Haryana)
Morning: Durgiana Temple
Before leaving Amritsar, visit the Durgiana Temple, a Hindu temple that draws architectural inspiration from the Golden Temple. This temple is dedicated to the goddess Durga and is a center of pilgrimage for devout Hindus.
Start your drive to Kurukshetra, a city known for its historical and religious significance in Hindu mythology.
Afternoon: Brahma Sarovar
Arrive in Kurukshetra and visit the Brahma Sarovar, an ancient water body said to be where Lord Brahma created the universe. It’s a focal point for many religious ceremonies during solar eclipses.
Evening: Sannihit Sarovar & Local Exploration
Continue to Sannihit Sarovar, a large water body believed to be the meeting point of seven sacred Saraswatis. The sarovar is also associated with the legendary battles of the Mahabharata.
Explore local markets for handicrafts like handloom shawls and religious paraphernalia. Dinner can be enjoyed at local eateries serving Haryanvi cuisine, which is simple yet flavorful with dishes like bajre ki khichdi.
A note from Phelipe
The drive from Amritsar to Kurukshetra can take about four hours, so it's wise to start early. This not only helps you avoid the heat of the midday but also gives you more time to explore Kurukshetra. Additionally, familiarize yourself with the local dining options along the route as well as in Kurukshetra, as the region's cuisine is distinct and can vary from Punjabi food, featuring more simple, rustic fare such as millet breads (bajra) and pulses.
Day 4: Kurukshetra to Chandigarh
Morning: Kurukshetra Panorama and Science Centre
Spend your morning at the Kurukshetra Panorama and Science Centre, a unique facility that combines science with the epic tale of Mahabharata. The main attraction is the massive cylindrical structure showcasing a panoramic view of the battle of Kurukshetra.
You may visit other local sites like the Bhishma Kund at Narkatari, where Bhishma lay on a bed of arrows during the Mahabharata war.
Afternoon: Drive back to Chandigarh
After lunch in Kurukshetra, start your journey back to Chandigarh. If time allows, make a pit stop at Panchkula to visit the Mata Mansa Devi Temple, a highly revered temple complex dedicated to Goddess Mansa Devi, a form of Shakti.
Arrive in Chandigarh and spend some time packing or exploring more of the city if your schedule allows.
Evening: Departure
Depending on your departure schedule, spend a relaxed evening in Chandigarh. You could visit Sector 17 for some last-minute shopping or just enjoy a good meal before heading to the airport or railway station for your onward journey.
A note from Phelipe
Plan your departure considering traffic. Traffic in and around Chandigarh can get congested, especially during peak hours. Plan your drive back to the city to avoid these times, generally late afternoon. If you're catching a flight or train, give yourself ample buffer time to navigate potential delays. Also, checking out of your hotel in Kurukshetra earlier and storing your luggage in the car can save time and allow for last-minute changes in your schedule without stress.
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This itinerary is part of our ongoing series on travel to India. Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out my guide, Rive Gauche in Paris: Our Favorite Hotels.