7-Day Wine Adventure: A Sommelier’s Guide to Umbria

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Advisor - Joe Valeri
Curated By

Joe Valeri

  • Boutique Travel

  • Off-the-Beaten-Path Travel

  • Italy

  • Winery

  • Foodie

  • Hidden Gem

Advisor -  7-Day Wine Adventure: A Sommelier’s Guide to Umbria
Curator’s statement

Our first trip to Umbria over a decade ago captured our hearts, thanks to its exceptional wines and the discovery of Montefalco, the region’s wine capital. Since then, we've explored much of Italy and other parts of the “Old World,” but when it came time to choose a place to settle in Italy, we returned to Umbria. Back in the US, we own V-NO, a wine bar in Baltimore. Joe, an expert in Italian wines, has introduced small-production, world-class selections to the US market, including a diverse range of Umbrian wines. Now living just outside Montefalco, we spend our days uncovering hidden food and wine gems that most visitors miss. This itinerary will guide you through our favorite local finds, while also showcasing the region’s iconic highlights.

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Day 1: Arrival

Arrive at Fiumicino (FCO) Airport near Rome. A rental car is essential for this journey, as many of the recommended spots are off the beaten path. Upon arrival, head to the car rental area in the Arrivals Terminal, located in Office Tower 2. Set your GPS to Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini (36 Piazza de' Ranieri, Orvieto, Umbria, 5018, Italy). The hotel is just inside Orvieto's city walls, less than a quarter-mile from the Main Piazza, with parking available on-site.

If you arrive before dinner and want to dive straight into history, head over to Orvieto Underground. Many ancient Umbrian cities, including Orvieto, were built atop older settlements, and the underground passages offer a fascinating walk through centuries of history.

For dinner, Orvieto has a variety of great options, but we particularly love Il Malandrino Bistrot, especially if you can snag a seat outside. It’s a perfect spot to enjoy the evening. Be sure to make reservations in advance — especially in the summer months, as they fill up quickly!

Before dinner, don’t forget to book tickets online for a visit to the stunning Orvieto Duomo for the morning of Day 2, either at 9 am or 10 am. This cathedral is one of Italy's finest examples of Romanesque-Gothic architecture and is truly a must-see.

Day 2: Wine tasting and local fare

Start your day with a visit to Caffè Montanucci, just a 5-minute walk from your hotel. This charming, quiet café serves artisanal pastries, delicious treats and a world-class cappuccino — it's hard to beat for a relaxing breakfast. If you have reservations for Il Duomo, it’s a short walk to Piazza del Duomo to meet your tour guide.

Wine Tasting: Orvieto is renowned for its white wine, Orvieto Bianco, and there are several vineyards less than 15 minutes away from your hotel. Many of them offer exceptional lunch and wine pairings. Be sure to make a reservation in advance (or let us handle it for you!) to ensure a top-notch food and wine experience.

After your wine tour and lunch, take a scenic 50-minute drive to one of Umbria's best-kept secrets: La Scarzuola. This surreal complex, created by an artist, serves as a blend of resort, hotel, movie set and art installation. With its unique, otherworldly architecture, it’s unlike anything we’ve encountered anywhere else in the world. Be prepared for a couple of hours of outdoor exploration. And save some energy after your wine tasting. Or if you prefer, explore other attractions in Orvieto, such as the Pozzo della Cava, the Archaeological Museum next to the Duomo. Or you can simply wander the ancient streets of the city.

For dinner, we highly recommend Labirinto Di Adriano. This restaurant offers a fantastic showcase of traditional local cuisine, and it’s attached to a fascinating attraction, making it the perfect end to your day.

Day 3: Montefalco

Check-out and drive to Montefalco: After checking out of your hotel, hop in the car for the scenic one-hour drive to Montefalco. Along the way, make a stop at Terremente, a vineyard well worth the detour for a wine tasting. It’s a popular spot, so be sure to book your appointment in advance to secure a spot.

Once you arrive in Montefalco, settle into one of Umbria's most luxurious hotels, Palazzo Bontadosi Hotel & Spa, located right in the heart of the historic district. This 5-star experience offers exceptional value. If you’re seeking something more rustic and just outside the city center, consider Camiano Piccolo, a charming countryside retreat. For a more intimate option, we also recommend our own B&B, Pietrauta (45, 06036 Montefalco PG, Italy), just 2 km from the city gate. We offer private rooms with breathtaking valley views and a large saltwater pool — perfect for relaxing after a day of exploring.

Wine Tasting: Use the afternoon to explore Montefalco’s wine scene. There are dozens of wineries with walk-in tasting rooms within a 15-minute drive of the city. One standout is Pardi, which is conveniently walkable from downtown. While most wineries don't serve lunch, several offer small bites or snacks to accompany your tasting.

For dinner, head to Ristorante alla Via di Mezzo da Giorgione, where you'll experience Italy’s answer to Emeril. Known for his bold flavors, Giorgione’s restaurant has become a must-visit after his appearance on Stanley Tucci’s Finding Italy. Reservations are now essential — book at least a few months in advance, and be prepared to speak Italian when you call to secure your table

Day 4: Spello

Begin the day with a short 30-minute drive to Spello, regularly ranked among the most beautiful small towns in Europe. As you make your way up the main Corso, don’t miss Bar Giardino Bonci. It is a hidden gem offering delicious pastries, rich coffee and an unexpectedly stunning view — perfect for a peaceful breakfast to start your day.

After breakfast, take a quick 10-minute drive to Santa Maria degli Angeli, a quaint town just downhill from Assisi. Enjoy lunch at La Locanda, a charming restaurant just a 5-minute walk from the cathedral. Known primarily for its fresh seafood, the menu also features fantastic pasta options, making it a great choice for a leisurely meal.

After lunch, head to the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli, often overlooked by tourists. Behind the basilica, you’ll find the serene and hidden “Women’s Chapel,” nestled in the middle of an olive and apple farm. It’s usually quiet, offering a peaceful and unique experience — definitely a hidden gem worth discovering.

Drive back to your hotel in Montefalco and unwind with an Aperitivo in the central piazza. If you happen to be visiting on a Thursday and see a large group speaking English, don’t hesitate to say hello. You might just spot us, as the local expat community (US and UK) meets there every Thursday for a casual get-together.

For dinner, head "a due passi" from the piazza to Ristorante Mordievai. A talented husband-and-wife team runs this cozy spot. While the menu is primarily in Italian (and they speak little English), the experience is well worth it. The wife crafts some of the most unique and delicious pasta dishes in all of Umbria, making it a must-try for food lovers.

Day 5: Pasta-making and wine

Start your day with a hearty breakfast at the hotel, then get ready for a full day of wine tasting! Within a 15-minute drive of Montefalco, there are over 30 wineries to explore, with more popping up all the time. Umbria boasts more than 200 wineries in total, so there’s no shortage of world-class wines to discover. Be sure to try Montefalco Sagrantino, a bold, full-bodied red that’s earned a reputation as one of Italy’s finest. If you prefer something lighter, try Trebbiano Spoletino. This is one of Italy’s newest DOC white wines, or Grechetto, a refreshing and easy-drinking white that pairs perfectly with a variety of dishes. Don’t miss Montefalco Rosso, a red wine that’s beloved as the region’s everyday table wine.

For a more curated experience, we can arrange tours with some of the region’s smallest and most exclusive winemakers. This gives you a deeper look at the craft behind these exceptional wines.

For lunch, why not take a hands-on approach and book a pasta-making class at a local vineyard, like Scacciadiavoli? You’ll learn the art of pasta while enjoying delicious wine pairings — a perfect way to experience Umbrian culture in action.

After your pasta class, you’ll have time to visit four or five more vineyards (depending on timing), tasting different wines along the way. By late afternoon, return to the hotel for a well-deserved post-wine nap before dinner.

For dinner, head just next door to L'Alchemista, an excellent restaurant offering a true taste of traditional Umbrian cuisine. From June through August, you’ll likely find many dishes featuring Black Truffle (Tartufo). Umbria is the truffle capital of Italy, producing more black truffles than any other region. During truffle season, you can indulge in pasta topped with a generous mound of fresh truffles for just 10 to 15 euros — a must-try experience for food lovers.

Day 6: Bevagna and wine tour

Start your day with a stroll down the main street, through the historic city gate and across to Pasticceria Beddini. This charming bakery is the perfect place for a delicious breakfast, offering a wide range of pastries and expertly brewed coffee. If you’re there around lunchtime, don’t miss the chance to grab a slice of pizza — it’s a local favorite!

Wine Tours: After breakfast, dedicate the afternoon to exploring more of Montefalco’s renowned wineries. Since you’re here for the wine, you’ll find plenty to discover. There are numerous vineyards offering tastings, each showcasing the region’s exceptional Montefalco Sagrantino and other local varietals. Take your time to enjoy the scenic vineyards and indulge in some of Umbria’s finest wines.

For dinner, take a short 10-minute drive to Bevagna, a picturesque town just outside Montefalco. Here, you’ll find Ristorante Ottavi Mare, a culinary gem. While it’s a bit pricier than most places in Italy, it offers a Michelin-level experience at a fraction of the cost — Michelin-worthy, but without the star. It’s a truly memorable dining experience.

After dinner, take a short walk to Le Barbatelle Wine Bar, where you can unwind and enjoy a nightcap. The warm and welcoming owner, Jen, is a native English speaker and an expert in local wines. She’ll be happy to share her knowledge and offer great wine tips, making this a perfect spot to continue your exploration of Umbria’s wine culture.

Day 7: Farewell

As you pack up and head back towards Rome Airport, consider taking a slight detour to Deruta, renowned worldwide for its exquisite pottery. While it's a bit off the beaten path, the craftsmanship here is unmatched, and you'll find beautiful, hand-painted pieces to bring home as souvenirs. Plus, the locals love a good haggle, so don’t be shy about negotiating for the best price!

If time allows, stop for lunch at Taverna del Gusto, tucked away down a charming alley in the historic district. This cozy spot offers delicious, traditional Umbrian fare and is the perfect place to relax before continuing your journey.

Need to know

Umbria has over 200 wineries in one of Italy's smallest and least populated regions. We have relationships with many winemakers and can build custom wine itineraries upon request, including, if desired, a personal wine guide.

Advisor - Joe Valeri

Travel Advisor

Joe Valeri

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