Two Week Ultimate Adventure Guide to the Central Visayas, Philippines

Moalboal is known for two things, Kasawan Falls and the second largest sardine run in the world. My first full day I opted for a canyoneering experience at Kasawan Falls because not only would it force me to get on Filipino time, but also get some exercise after almost 30 hours of sitting. This was 100% one of the BEST EXPERIENCES I had in my entire month.

My second day I opted to battle the tour guides and check out the sardine run on my own (one reason I travel with my own gear). Again, a great choice because the reef is right off the shore (on Panagsama Beach) and not being on a tour allowed me to explore on my own at my own time. The sardines here were on the deeper side and perhaps better viewed diving, but nonetheless I saw a few turtles and other colorful fish.

On my final day I chose a less busy snorkeling option in front of Turtle Bay Dive Resort for my morning activity. This is a quiet area so make sure you bring a buddy! I saw many turtles and even a sea snake!! In the afternoon I visited the only white sand beach in the area, White Beach. It is a great place to hang out for the day or arrive later in the day for sunset.

There is plenty to do in the area, many waterfalls to visit and Osmeña Peak is a popular sunset hike. I would recommend a tour, as the roads are very dangerous by motorbike (and I lived in Bali on and off and still would not recommend renting one here). I loved the Shaka Cafe for post-snorkeling smoothies, Smooth Cafe for my morning coffee and the my favorite restaurant was Hungry Monkeys Thai.

Siquijor Island's mystical charm and healing traditions were a highlight of my trip, and honestly this island was my favorite, not only because of the captivating Cambugahay Falls, but also my accommodation at the Bermuda Triangle was top notch and the food across the island was the best I had on the trip.

Most people stay in the town of San Juan. It is where all the restaurants are and close to major points of interest. I rented a bike for my entire stay and would recommend if you want to travel around the island since taxis are expensive and jeepneys are slow and don’t go everywhere. It is very safe, slow-paced and mainly scooter traffic.

My top things recommendations to do around the island:

• Apo Island to snorkel with turtles: Full day excursion and go with Coco Grove Beach Resort.

• Cambugahay Falls: Hire the dudes to do a photo shoot, best eight dollars I spent.

• Lugnason Falls paired with the Zodiac Falls hike: Hire the guide (you need one) at the entrance.

• Piton Cliff: I stopped here on the way to Salagdoong Beach. Great photo opportunity.

• Salagdoong Beach: Plan to spend the day as its about two hours by bike. Prettiest beach on the island, and great cliff jumps as well. Not a lot of food and beverage options.

• Tulapos Marine Sanctuary: The best off-shore snorkeling on the island. Close to Salagdoong Beach.

• Enchanted Balete Tree: Oldest tree on the island. Quick stop on the way to Cambugahay Falls.

• Paliton Beach: There are two beaches here. The “better” beach is bigger and more food stalls, the smaller one has only drinks. Both are great for swimming, relaxing and sunsets.

For food, drink and entertainment (live music every night at 6:30 pm) the Baja Bar was my favorite place, and I went once a day. The owner Gen is amazing, and their eco-friendly concept is another reason I kept coming back, as well as the menu. Other great options were Shaka Cafe, where I went every morning for coffee and a smoothie bowl, Monkey Business, Makmak Thai, Luka Loko and if you like italian (not for me) people raved about Dolce Amore. Don’t forget to drink a Calamansi juice (a popular health drink in the central visayas) daily for an immunity boost.

Bohol Island and Panglao connect about an hour apart. I wanted a change of scenery from beaches and ocean life, so I opted to stay at the beautiful along the beautiful Loboc River in Bohol for a few nights before heading to the white beaches of Panglao.

The Loboc River Resort was another accommodation highlight of my trip; in fact I booked my entire Central Visayas trip around the few days I reserved here. A small boutique resort, rooms are limited and set along the Loboc River. The resort bodes a monkey forest, pet water buffalo and a beautiful pond full of water lilies.

My first afternoon I opted for a relaxing spa in their zen garden followed by a paddle board firefly tour in the early evening. Firefly tours in the area are definitely a must-do, as they offer a unique opportunity to witness the enchanting spectacle of these bioluminescent insects lighting up the night sky. Paddling along the river under the twinkling lights of the fireflies was a truly mesmerizing experience.

My only full day here was reserved for a journey to the Chocolate Hills by motorbike. I didn’t want to take the two hour trip from Panglao and sit through stops that didn’t interest me, which was one reason I wanted to stay in Loboc, the firefly tour was the other. The Chocolate Hills are a geological formation consisting of over 1,200 cone-shaped hills spread across an area of more than 50 square kilometers. During the dry season, the grass-covered mounds turn brown, resembling chocolate kisses, giving them their name.

The tarsiers in Loboc are another highlight of Bohol Island and my second stop back down from the hills. The Philippine tarsier is one of the smallest primates in the world and is considered an endangered species, making the opportunity to see them in their natural habitat even more special. On the way back I recommend a quick stop through the Bilar Man-Made Forest and pop over to the Sevilla Twin Hanging Bridge.

On my last day I took a paddle board tour from my resort to the river in the morning. Prior to setting off for Panglao I had lunch at the Loboc River Cruise, which is another must-try experience when visiting Bohol. It is a popular activity where visitors can enjoy a delicious buffet of local dishes, from fresh seafood to traditional Filipino favorites while cruising along the Loboc River.

Days 12-15: Panglao

After my time in Bohol, I made my way to Panglao Island, known for its stunning white sand beaches and crystal-clear waters. Alona Beach is a popular spot for tourists, with plenty of water activities and beach bars to enjoy and where I stayed. I spent my days in Panglao sunbathing, snorkeling and exploring the nearby islands on boat tours. Below are some recommendations to fill your time.

• Boat tour to Balicasag Marine Park: Dolphin watching, swim with turtles and visit to sandbar.

• Alona Beach: Take a left from Alona Beach Road to find shops, restaurants and a bigger beach area.

• Dumaluan Beach: Hang at the Bohol Beach Club along this white sand beach.

• Bohol Bee Farm: A great lunch option when in Dumaluan Beach. Lots of history and great food.

• Napaling Reef: WAY BETTER sardine run than Moalboal. Sardines are closer to the surface and it is a beautiful reef with a lot of fish.

• Hinagdanan Cave: Pair with snorkel at Napalming Reef. Cool cave resembling a cenote.

• Linaw Beach Resort: The only place you can actually see the sunset on the island. Grab a drink and post up.

Like Siquijor, Panglao also had great food. My go-to morning restaurant was no other than the Shaka Cafe and also offers lunch at this location so I had to try it. BarWoo was AMAZING Korean food, very busy and reservation only (or get there early to wait). Mist is an Instagrammers paradise, with three floors, plants everywhere and a great view for a sunset. Head to the Buzzz Cafe Alona if you need another Bohol Beehive vegan ice cream fix. The Oasis Restaurant has great fish if you are looking for a beachfront dining experience.

How to get to and from and in between:

I flew with Philippine Airline direct from LAX to Cebu (with a connection in Manila). I must say this was the perfect option to take since my bags were checked through to Cebu (much quicker process in baggage claim than the hours you would have had in Manila) and therefore all I had to do was clear immigration and transfer to the domestic terminal (free transfer service included and about a 20 minute process).

Cebu is a great place to start your Philippine journey because not only is it centrally located, but also bodes a major airport. Moalboal, however, is not that quick to get to. Depending on your arrival time, you may opt to stay in Cebu City for the night. I arrived around noon and continued my journey to Moalboal by long and cheap way of taxi to bus to trike.

Ocean Jet ferries are very safe and reliable. Be sure to book them online, in advance if you are traveling during high season. I opted for business class from Cebu to Siquijor because it was a long journey, a great choice due to rough seas, and the cushioned seats reclined. I also opted for the more expensive, but direct and easy route from Moalboal (a private transfer to Cebu’s main port) to Siquijor. Some chose to go through Dumaguente from Moalboal but there are many transfers involved. From Siquijor I went in standard class to Bohol since it was under two hours. Share a mixed van once you arrive in Bohol port, it is much cheaper than a taxi.

I recommend flying from Panglao through Manila to Palawan. Why? If you want a multi-transfer and slightly cheaper route you can certainly choose to take a taxi to Bohol’s port from your hotel, and then a two hour ferry to Cebu and finally, sit in an hour of traffic to get to Cebu airport for a direct flight. I chose a quicker, easier and slightly more expensive option.