Curator’s statement
When dreaming of a vacation in France, we often think of baguettes, the Eiffel Tower or sipping a glass of Champagne on the Mediterranean coast. However, if a slower, more sustainable, less hurried pace is desired — romance can be found, historical lessons learned, dishes sampled, wines drunk, interesting conversations had — this can be found near Beaune and Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Time is well spent in the villages and vineyards in between the crumbling stone walls and chateaux scattered throughout this part of France. If you want this experience, bike or drive along the northern part of the famous Route des Grands Crus. The wet rolling hills of Burgundy will not disappoint. Explore the charming walled village and cobblestone streets and wine cellars of Beaune and wander around the surrounding storied wine ‘climats’ or wine plots of the Côte d'Or aged across 2000 years of winegrowing history. Add a Michelin-rated or French-Japanese restaurant with a glass of the region's delicious white, red, or Cremant de Bourgogne wine for when you want bubbles.
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Where to stay in Burgundy
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Things to do in Burgundy
Routes des Grand Crus — Bike, boat, ride, walk from Dijon through to Beaune and then Santenay. Across these 60km, you will find no less than 1,247 climats. Take note of the small limestone cabotes or shelters along the way and stop to enjoy along the way.
Ride a Bike — Support the riders and watch for the yellow jersey of the Tour de France. Or just do what you want with a tour or at your own speed with friends.
Follow the Ramparts — Throughout Beaune you will find signs that read ‘Amis des Ramparts’ follow these signs to visit the towers and parapets around the fortified village.
Ride on a Boat — Meander along or on the canals or riverways.
Hotel Dieu Hospices de Beaune - Founded in 1443 as a hospital for the poor, stands today as a museum, hospital and iconic monument of Burgundian architecture. Its colorful geometric interior courtyard design and glazed tiled roof contrast with noble mission continued through today via the creative scheme to fund operations across five centuries as a ‘winemaking hospital.’ Pick up a bottle as well at the giftshop.
Athenaeum bookstore — Here buy all manner of wine paraphernalia, wine books and wine.
Cite des Climats et vins de Bourgogne — Learn about all things wine in a modern, immersive environment.
Chateau du Clos de Vougeot, built in 1551 on a vineyard run by Cistercian monks from the 12th century. If you can only visit one wall-enclosed vineyard or Clos on the Route des Grands Crus, this one may be on your list. This estate is the largest in the Côte de Nuits. Purchased by the Chevaliers and revitalized shortly after prohibition in 1945.
Musee du Vin de Bourgogne — Learn about the history of Wine and Winemaking in one of the former residences of the Dukes of Burgundy
Chateau de Pommard — Don’t just sample world-class wine. Truffles can be hunted and found here as well.
Day Trips:
The list of small villages in Burgundy to visit is long. Here are but a few places to go if time permits.
Dijon - The capital city of the former duchy of Burgundy. The former palace houses a substantial art museum.
Nuit Saint Georges - Stop by the charming square in this vibrant village for lunch and a visit when making your way from Beaune to Dijon.
Chateauneuf - A village with an imposing 15th-century medieval castle and fortress, the Chateau de Chateauneuf.
Auxerre - Take a boat ride on the Yonne or amble among the timber-framed homes, medieval buildings and a train station. Close to the town of Chablis.
Places to eat & drink in Burgundy
There are no shortage of Michelin Starred Restaurants 1,2 and three stars in and around Beaune, nor lack of fine wine in the Cote D’Or. Likely you have an interest in wine and will happily encounter a high concentration of Gran and Premier Crus. You will be drinking Pinot Noir or Chardonnay to stay true to the classification. But when you see Gamay and Aligote, these types of wine will be from the larger Bourgogne region — but why not try them too? However, to stay true to this relatively new classification, you would be bound to drink from the wines hailing from the 40 often tiny villages of the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits.
You will eat heartily and well in Burgundy, and for the adventurous, you may want to sample more than the beef bourgogne, coq au vin or the escargot raised on grape leaves. But this isn’t to say these dishes shouldn’t be on the list.
Drink a vintage from the Hospices de Beaune charity wine auction.
Held the 3rd Sunday of November, you can attend or just purchase a bottle (or a barrel) from the Hospices de Beaune estate.
Chateau de Meursault — A very large estate where you can sample, tour or taste from over 38 appellations, including 6 Grand Crus and 20 Premier Crus.
Fallot Mustard Museum — Dijon is not the only place to buy and learn about mustard.
Restaurant Le Relais de Saux - A delightful small restaurant with a creative chef at the helm. Don’t be surprised if you end up chatting with other diners and end up sharing your wine.
L'Alentour - A charming French 'tapas' from a friendly trio of young proprietors.
Clos de Cedre — Michelin-starred garden restaurant in a 5-star hotel formerly a winegrower's manor.
Le Bistro de L’Hotel - Comfort food and the signature Bresse Poulard will brighten your day if you happen to visit when it rains.
Saturday Beaune Market — Beaune is filled with all manner of delights on Market Day.
Joseph Drouhin — Visit the caves for a wine tasting or just drop by this famed French Wine Merchant or Negociant.
Need to know
Consider this guide a starting point for your first visit to Burgundy. The slower you go, the more you'll see. You can't help but leave more for next time.
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Victoria Cox
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This guide is a part of our ongoing series on travel to France. For more travel tips, check out Fora Advisor Erica Christie's guide, Beaune, France: Foodie and Wine Lover’s Paradise in Burgundy.