Explore Tokyo Like a Local

Explore Non-Touristy Neighborhoods

Kuramae

Start your day off in Kuramae, a crazily charming neighborhood in eastern Tokyo. Home to cafes, mom-and-pop stores, artist studios and killer restaurants, Kuramae gives me a similar vibe to trendy Nakameguro. However, it’s relaxing and relatively untouched by tourists and selfie-taking influencers. Hidden away between the bustling Asakusa and the semi-gritty (by Tokyo standards) Asakusabashi, Kuramae is the kind of tranquil enclave you can just walk around in for hours on end. But you’re gonna need a coffee. Order your first one of the day at Camera, where you can also shop for locally made leather goods. Menu highlights include smoothies, pastries (carrot cake muffins, hōjicha-flavored scones) and spam onigiri. Then, make your way to Kakimori, a beautifully-designed stationery store, followed by Mt. Lab, a kaleidoscopically colorful shop that solely sells a massive selection of washi tape. Need more caffeine? Swing by Sol’s Coffee Stand, which is perfectly placed across from Kuramae Shrine (est. 1694!).

Yanaka

Stroll the winding streets of quaint Yanaka and you’ll pass old wooden homes, cozy artisan shops, hole-in-the-wall eateries, shrines and temples. You’ll also probably come across cute stray cats in the traditional neighborhood, which, fun fact, is known to locals as Tokyo’s “cat town.” Wander long enough and you’ll stumble upon the occasional stylish cafe, design-forward shop and modern art gallery. This head-turning mash-up of old and new gives Yanaka its charm. One minute, you'll be passing through the gingko and cherry tree-lined Yanaka Cemetery; the next minute you’re eyeing artwork inside a 200-year-old bathhouse-turned-art gallery aptly named Scai The Bathhouse. As for my number one Yanaka must-visit? That’d be Kayaba Coffee, a retro kissaten (old-school coffee shop) tucked away in an Instagrammable two-story house that was built in 1916. There’s a tatami room on the top floor, and the must-order is the egg sando, which will change your tastebuds’ lives.

Koenji

According to the internet, the best ‘hood for vintage shopping and people-watching in Tokyo is the perpetually-packed Shimokitazawa. But consider visiting the laidback and impossibly cool ‘hood of Koenji. Known as the birthplace of Japanese punk rock, explore the narrow streets that are dotted with vintage and thrift shops, like Treasure Factory Style and quirky antique stores, like Gonnosuke. Before leaving, be sure to check out the many yakitori joints, ramen spots and small punk bars located under the elevated tracks near the JR Station. You'll thank me later.

Unique Things to Do in Tokyo

Were you even in Tokyo if you didn’t see Sensoji Temple? If you avoid chaotically crammed spots (same!) but still want to see this historic beauty, all you have to do is go to the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center. It’s conveniently located right across the street from Sensoji. Just take the elevator to the observation deck on the 8th floor, where you’ll be gifted with great views of the ever-crowded temple. The last time I did this, I briefly had the entire viewing platform to myself! Afterwards, take an easy, breezy, beautiful stroll along the picturesque Sumida River.

How does soaking in steamy pools with naked strangers at a historic sento/public bathhouse sound to you? You’ve gotta try it at least once, so head to Koganeyu in Sumida City. Established over 88 years ago, Koganeyu offers multiple pools and a sauna. In 2020, it got a fancy makeover replete with a cafe, DJ booth, beautiful murals of Mount Fuji and a craft beer taproom. Plus, unlike most bathhouses, due to their association with the yakuza, tattoos are allowed! Pro tip: Bathing areas are separated from men and women. First-timers should Google "sento etiquette."

Want to watch sumo wrestlers practice early in the morning at a sumo stable? Of course you do (plus, it's free of charge!). But before you set your alarms, take a look at the training schedule. If you’re in luck and the sumo wrestlers are in town, then get yourself to Arashio Stable, where you can watch the wrestlers practice and train from outside via a large window. Consider sticking around until they’re done for the day–the wrestlers are known to come outside for photos.

Drink

Open Book

This watering hole in vibrant Golden Gai will make you feel right at home. Enter this book-lined bar through a sliding wooden door, where the signature drink is a lemon sour. Fun fact: Many of the books belonged to the bar owner’s late grandfather, author Komimasa Tanaka.

Gold Bar at EDITION

Feeling fancy? Love fabulous cocktails and izakaya-inspired bites? Then follow fashionable Tokyoites, in-the-know visitors, and the occasional celebrity to this intimate and swanky speakeasy-style cocktail bar, which is curtained off near the entrance of The Tokyo Toranomon EDITION.

VENT

Put on your best dancing shoes when going to VENT, an enthralling nightclub featuring a killer sound system and a no-photography policy. Here, you can lose your mind on the laser-lit dance floor to lively sets from some of the world’s finest house and techno artists.

Coffee Zingaro

Fans of artist Takashi Murakami or coffee will love his retro, neon-drenched kissaten-style cafe, which he opened in 2020 in the anime and manga shop-filled Nakano Broadway. You’ll find Murakami's work all over the zanily-outfitted place, from the latte artwork inspired by his signature flower motif to the dizzying NFT videos playing on TV screens.

EAT

Isshin Daikanyama

Remove your shoes before stepping upon the tatami mat-covered floors of this hidden gem in ritzy Daikanyama. You’ll likely need a reservation to dine at this locals’ favorite, whose menu offers a variety of traditional Japanese plates, from fresh sashimi and tempura platters of the day to Kakuni (braised pork belly) and deep-fried fugu (pufferfish).

Alaska Zwei

This tiny, sun-filled vegan cafe is nestled on a quiet, hilly side street in trendy Nakameguro. The menu features veggie-heavy brown rice plates, vegetable curry, salads, soups and homemade bread. I’ve returned numerous times for a delightful solo lunch.

City Country City

This cool 18-year-old indie cafe in Shimokitazawa doubles as a record store, selling everything from psychedelic folk records to coffees and creamy plates of carbonara. Owned by musician Keiichi Sokabe, try not to get lost when looking for this very chill, no-frills hideaway—it’s perched on the fourth floor of a nondescript office building.