One of the Top 10 Road Trips in the World: Wakhan Corridor and Pamir Highway, Tajikistan
Curated By
Ucman Scher
Curator’s statement
Tajikistan is an unknown country to most Western tourists, but it brings crazy rewards. The country of mountains (93% of Tajikistan is mountainous), lakes and incredibly friendly people is an incredible missed opportunity. I would go back in a heartbeat and so should you.
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Day 1: Dushanbe to Kalaikhumb
The journey began with a sense of excitement and anticipation as we left Dushanbe early in the morning. After a two-hour drive, we reached Nurak Lake, a stunning man-made dam surrounded by picturesque mountains. The lake’s islands, actually mountain peaks, added to its surreal beauty. Continuing our drive, we visited the historic Castle of Hulbuk, a fascinating glimpse into Tajikistan’s rich past. The scenery became increasingly dramatic as we neared the border, traveling alongside the Panj River. The highlight of the day was the view of small villages perched precariously on steep mountainsides. After a long but exhilarating drive of nearly 12 hours, we arrived in Kalaikhumb, our stop for the night. Exhausted yet thrilled, I realized the adventure had only just begun.
Drive times and locations:
Dushanbe to Nurak Lake: ~2 hours
Nurak Lake to Kalaikhumb: ~9 hours 45 minutes
Highlights: Nurak Lake, Castle of Hulbuk, Panj River, small villages, Kalaikhumb
Day 2: Kalaikhumb to Khorog
The second day was all about immersing ourselves in the rugged beauty of the Pamir Mountains. We left Kalaikhumb at dawn, prepared for a full day of driving along narrow, dusty roads. The Panj River continued to accompany us, with its sparkling waters contrasting against the arid landscape. We passed several small villages, each more captivating than the last, offering a poignant reminder of the stark differences across the river. Lunch was a simple picnic by the roadside, with breathtaking views all around. Despite the challenging road conditions, the journey was a feast for the eyes. We reached Khorog late in the evening after about 11 hours on the road, feeling dusty and tired but deeply moved by the day’s experiences.
Drive times and locations:
Kalaikhumb to Khorog: ~11 hours
Highlights: Panj River, small villages, roadside picnic, Khorog
Day 3: Khorog to Bulunkul Lake
Waking up in Khorog, I felt a sense of calm amid the mountain scenery. The drive to Ishkashim, where we stopped for lunch and a dip in the hot springs, was leisurely compared to the previous days. The road took us through lush green valleys and alongside serene rivers, a stark contrast to the barren landscapes we had seen earlier. Visiting the village of Yamg and exploring the ancient Yamchun Fortress were highlights.
The road from Wakhan corridor to Upper Wakhan was scary and beautiful at the same time with emerald river flowing with full flow on the side.
By the time we reached Bulunkul Lake, it was already cold, but the beauty of the place made it all worthwhile. That night, I fell asleep feeling grateful for the serene moments and the slower pace of the day.
Drive times and locations:
Khorog to Ishkashim: ~4 hours
Ishkashim to Yamg: ~3 hours
Yamg to Bulunkul Lake: ~2 hours
Highlights: Ishkashim hot springs, Yamchun Fortress, Bulunkul Lake
Day 4: Bulunkul to Yashikul Lake and return to Khorog
Day four began with exploring Bulunkul village, where the simplicity of life at such high altitudes was both humbling and inspiring. The greenhouse, the school and the warmth of the villagers left a lasting impression. We then visited Yashikul Lake, a massive, tranquil body of water reflecting the surrounding mountains. The short distance to Bulunkul Lake revealed a wetland ecosystem crucial for migratory birds. I was awestruck by the diverse landscapes within such a small radius. The day ended with a challenging drive up the highest mountain pass in Tajikistan called Kutzek, followed by a return to Khorog. The mix of natural beauty and cultural richness filled me with awe and respect for this remote region.
The entire day on Pamir Highway was beautiful beyond belief.
Drive times and locations:
Bulunkul to Yashikul Lake: ~1 hour
Yashikul Lake to Polunko Lake: ~30 minutes
Polunko Lake to Khorog: ~5 hours
Highlights: Bulunkul village, Yashikul Lake, Polunko Lake, highest mountain pass, Khorog
Day 5: Khorog to Kalai-Khumb
Feeling refreshed after a night in Khorog, we set out for Kalai-Khumb. Our first stop was the village of Jalandi, where soaking in the Soviet-style hot springs melted away the fatigue from our bones. The journey back along the Panj River offered new perspectives on familiar sights. We passed through numerous small villages, observing the preparations for winter. The hospitality of the Tajik people was heartwarming, especially when our driver’s family welcomed us into their garden for a feast. The day was filled with unexpected joys and simple pleasures, making it a memorable part of the journey. We arrived in Kalai-Khumb late, content and ready for the final leg of our adventure.
Drive times and locations:
Khorog to Jalandi: ~2 hours
Jalandi to Kalai-Khumb: ~8 hours
Highlights: Jalandi hot springs, Panj River, small villages, Kalai-Khumb
Day 6: Kalai-Khumb to Dushanbe
The final day brought mixed feelings of sadness and satisfaction. Leaving Kalai-Khumb, we took a different, more treacherous road back to Dushanbe. The Khuburubad Pass offered breathtaking views of open valleys and abundant vegetation, a refreshing change from the rugged terrain we had traversed. Encounters with nomadic shepherds and their flocks added a touch of pastoral charm to the day. A spontaneous invitation to a village celebration highlighted the warmth and generosity of the Tajik people. As we neared Dushanbe, the trip’s end felt bittersweet. This journey through Tajikistan had been a profound experience, filled with stunning landscapes, rich cultural encounters and personal growth. The Pamir Highway and Wakhan Corridor had left an indelible mark on my heart.
Drive times and locations:
Kalai-Khumb to Khuburubad Pass: ~4 hours
Khuburubad Pass to Dushanbe: ~6 hours
Highlights: Khuburubad Pass, nomadic shepherds, village celebration, Dushanbe
Need to know
Check out my YouTube vlogs here:
Pamir Highway, Panj River and Villages | Epic Tajikistan Roadtrip Pt. 1
Wakhan Corridor and Pamir Highway Roadtrip | Incredible Tajikistan Roadtrip Pt. 2
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Travel Advisor
Ucman Scher
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Asia. For more travel inspiration, check out Fora Advisor Isam Tabani's guide, Pakistan: Where Continents Collide.