Curator’s statement
There is so much more to Maui beyond the beaches and resorts. The upcountry is a testament to the island's diversity, home to misty cloud forests, lavender farms and a rich paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) culture.
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Where to stay in Maui
Maui's North Shore Lookout
This boutique B&B offers spacious rooms with panoramic views of Hawaii's rugged coastline and lush valleys.
Kula Lodge
Welcome to the Kula Lodge Restaurant & Bar in scenic Maui, Hawaii. Take a stroll through the garden, sip a cocktail, and unwind.
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Things to do in Maui
Makawao Town - Shopping & Dining
Once known as a bustling paniolo (cowboy) town, Makawao is home to an eclectic collection of cafes, boutiques, art galleries and new-age shops. While you might not see Hawaiian cowboys on horseback clopping down Makawao Avenue these days, the town is still cemented in ranching culture and hosts the largest rodeo competition in the state each year. Come here for Maui's best espresso at Espresso Mafia or try the enormous cookies at Maui Cookie Lady. Shop locally-designed clothes and art and indulge in pastries at the 100-year-old Komoda Bakery.
Mahalo Aleworks - Brewery
Upcountry's first and only brewery, Mahalo Aleworks, opened in 2021 and immediately won a slew of awards at the Hawaii Craft Beer awards — including the Best New Brewery in Hawaii title. Beer here is brewed with "hyper-local" ingredients sourced from nearby farms or even foraged from Upcountry forests! And the views from the expansive tap house are just as impressive as the brews.
Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm - Garden & Gifts
Ali'i Kula Lavender Farm is one of the most tranquil places on the island. In addition to cultivating 45 varieties of lavender, stunning botanicals like proteas and ohia lehua are also grown on the property. Be sure to stop by the gift shop for treats like lavender brownies, lavender lemonade, lavender scones and other lavender-infused goodies.
Kula Botanical Gardens - Garden
Kula Botanical Gardens is one of my favorite places on Maui. I used to visit during the pandemic and often I was the only one there. It was magical. Whether you're alone or not, this stunning garden is home to a plethora of flowers, two gazebos, an orchid and bromeliad house, and an aviary. The gardens were nearly wiped out by a devastating flood in 2021 and recovery efforts are ongoing, but it's still worth a visit!
Haleakala National Park - Hiking & Sightseeing
Haleakala National Park is the number one attraction on Maui, welcoming over a million visitors each year. While most people are drawn to the park for sunrise or sunset, I recommend exploring Haleakala midday, when the temperatures are warm and the park is less crowded. Do a day hike on the Sliding Sands Trail and soak in the volcanic grandeur of Haleakala's massive crater. Or, explore the misty forest at Hosmer Grove and watch for endemic honeycreepers, like the scarlet-red I'iwi — found only in Hawaii!
Maui Wine - Winery
Yes, Maui has a winery! Located in the verdant Ulupalakua region, Maui Wine is located on an old sugar estate, which once hosted royals like King Kalakaua. Try the sparkling pineapple wine (my favorite!) or the delicious red blend, Mele. Don't forget to head across the street to Ulupalakua Ranch Store for a tasty local burger afterwards! And be sure to make a winery reservation to guarantee a table.
Makawao Forest - Hiking
This six-mile loop trail takes you through dense forest filled with pines, fragrant ginger and native ferns. This forest will transport you out of Hawaii and into the PNW. The cool temperatures are great for when you need a break from the sun, but don't hike this trail if it's been raining. It can get very slippery.
Upcountry Farmers Market - Shopping & Dining
If you find yourself Upcountry on a Saturday morning, do not miss the Upcountry Farmers Market at the Kulamalu Town Center. While produce is plentiful at this bustling market, you'll also find flowers, baked goods, delicious food and local goodies like jams, handmade jewelry, handcrafted cutting boards and so much more. Open 7-11 each Saturday with free entry.
Places to eat & drink in Maui
Espresso Mafia - Coffee - Fantastic coffee shop in Makawao run by the sweetest local family. Ask them what they recommend and they'll whip you up something delicious.
Vida by Sip Me - Coffee - The cutest coffee shop in Makawao. The vibes here are on point. Grab your coffee and sneak upstairs to the lounge area.
Casanova - Dinner - Casanova is one of my favorite dinner spots on Maui. This Italian joint has been around for as long as I can remember on Maui. Great pizza, pasta and aperol spritz.
Satori - Lunch & Dinner - Satori is a sushi food truck in Makawao with a cozy outdoor dining area beneath a big mango tree. While the fresh fish hand rolls are the most popular, don't overlook the vegan options. The Roots on Fire with jalapeno-pickled beets, daikon, carrot, basil and fried garlic is my absolute favorite.
Marlow - Lunch, Dinner - Located next to Mahalo Aleworks, Marlow is known for its wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas — but their meatballs and burrata are dang good, too. Clean, aesthetic restaurant with great cocktails as well.
Grandma's Coffee House - Breakfast & Lunch - Cozy spot in the country outpost of Keokea. Hands-down my favorite breakfast on Maui. Grandma's is a classic spot that's been around for decades. They have a great loco moco, but I usually go for the Combo Special with scrambled eggs, Portuguese sausage and rice — a Hawaii breakfast favorite.
Kula Lodge - Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner - A cozy lodge with an outstanding view. Come here for brunch before or after heading to Haleakala Crater or for an epic sunset dinner — but be sure to check the hours first. The August 2023 barely spared Kula Lodge wildfires Upcountry and their hours of operation are continuously changing as the Kula area recovers.
Kula Bistro - Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner - A bustling bistro known for pizzas, pastas, paninis, and pastries. This is a great spot for a casual dinner. It's BYOB, so pick up a bottle of wine across the street at Morihara's Store first!
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Travel Advisor
Serene Gunnison
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For more travel tips, check out Fora Advisor Anna Ingoglia guide, A Food and Culture Guide to Maui, HI.
This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Maui.