Curator’s statement
Translating to “the sweetness of doing nothing,” il dolce far niente can be lived and fully enjoyed throughout Italy. But, in Sicily, one can feel it to the core - long lunches under lemon trees, easy aperitivos in a neighborhood piazza, late nights on a terrace. I had the opportunity to take a summer sabbatical a few years ago - and Sicily was my destination. Although part of Italy, Sicily is totally autonomous region and has a personality entirely of its own - its terrain, cuisine, dialect and pace. Sicily is distinct; it is an island that compares to no other with stunning archaeological sites, pulsing outdoor markets, wonderfully proud people and stunning vistas. It is a place where women can travel da sola and also where couples and families are warmly welcomed.
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Where to stay in Sicily
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Things to do in Sicily
Things to do in Noto
Afternoon in Noto - I loved this small city as it feels quintessentially Sicilian with its ornate Baroque architecture, a multitude of cafes and slow pace. The Cathedral is breathtaking with a majestic stairway perfect for photo ops. There are countless small churches around the town that are jewel boxes! There is a small contemporary gallery/museum space in the center of town that features small exhibits; there was a Banksy exhibit when I was in town - a totally unexpected surprise! Be sure to start your day early during the summer months, the afternoons really heat up!
A day at the small, super cool beach club Baiamuri (Pachino, Province of Syracuse). A club with a “barefoot lux" vibe, I loved spending the day on a float, eating, chatting and reading - on repeat! Clean sand, blue/green water, comfortable loungers, great music, terrifically attentive and fun staff, tasty cocktails, excellent fresh seafood lunches and dinners - need I say more? The club is about an hour's drive from Dimora delle Balze; be sure to reserve a lounger (especially on weekends). I returned many times to enjoy the vibes. The day rate is approximately 60 Euros per person (but may fluctuate during weekends).
Syracuse Archaeological Park and Ortigia (in the heart of ancient Syracuse), a bridge-linked small island accessible from the modern city of Ortigia.
Things to do in Taormina
This is yet another spectacular town that will unfold in front of you. Walk the winding streets, stop in cool shops and enjoy an afternoon drink at a cafe. You will want to reserve at least a day (or two!) to “doing nothing” (again, il dolce far niente!)
Visit the Greek amphitheater (dates to the 3rd century BC) and later expanded by the Romans. Not only is the site itself a marvel, but the views of Etna and the coast are also spectacular. Note: the theater is an incredible concert venue, hosting such talents as Eros Ramazzotti and Robert Plant.
Full-day trip to the Roman archaeological site of Villa Romana del Casale (about a 2-hour drive from Taormina). A UNESCO World Heritage site, the villa has among the most beautifully preserved collections of Roman mosaics in the world. The site requires a few hours to visit completely and is remarkably well-marked. Extremely detailed educational plaques allow for an immersive experience. And if you’re feeling a little hungry after this cool excursion, don’t miss the delicious arancini (deep-fried rice balls) at the kiosk adjacent to the parking lot.
Take a half-day trip (on a boat!) around the Aeolian Islands - visit Panarea and Stromboli. You will love it! There are a range of options - from low-key trips to more luxe!
Day Trips from Sicily
Full-day trip to the Roman archaeological site of Villa Romana del Casale (a two-hour drive from Taormina). Exquisitely excavated.
For power shoppers, do not miss the incredible Sicilia Outlet Village (a one-hour drive outside of Taormina). Brands include Armani, Moschino, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, Tods, Gucci and Blumarine. They have a luxury concierge, reserved parking for families, a children’s play area, great food court - totally top-notch!
A note from Rebecca
I loved both hotels so much that I extended my stay. I ended up staying nearly 3 weeks (in total) at Dimora delle Balze during the summer of 2019. The client-focused service at both Dimora delle Balze and Grand Hotel Timeo is 10-star - every request is handled quickly and happily.
Note: For half of this trip I traveled solo and for the latter half traveled with my mother (80 years old). I felt very comfortable as a single female traveler, and my mother had no challenges (aside from an adventurous docking following our boat tour around the Bay of Naxos, Taormina).
Places to eat & drink in Sicily
Caffe Sicila (Noto) - Over 100 years old, for some of the best granita and desserts you can find.
Trattoria Fontana d’Ercole (Noto) - Small and packed with locals. Delicious pastas, affordable and packed (and I mean PACKED) with locals.
Pizzeria Casa Matta (Noto) - Iconic. Make sure to make a reservation.
Baiamuri Beach Club (Pachino) - Worth the drive for clam spaghetti. Fantastic seafood, fabulous drinks and super cool vibes.
Do not miss dinner at Dimora delle Balze. Farm-to-table fare like you cannot imagine, a wonderful selection of Sicilian wines, a beautiful setting and relaxed, kind service.
Ristorante La Griglia (Taormina) - Linen table clothes and a posh guest list, La Griglia serves fresh catches and stupendous wine. Don’t miss the prawns.
Snag a prime table at one of the cafes peppered around Piazza Badia (Taormina) and people watch for a few while. All are over-priced, but worth the fun!
Aperitifs or nightcap (or both!) on the terrace of Grand Hotel Timeo (Taormina) - relaxing, beautiful calm. Exquisite service and jaw-dropping views.
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Rebecca Hanson
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For travelers who'd like to spend time on the Italian "mainland," I have curated some hidden gems and favorite recommendations for Florence: Hidden Gems of Florence; Rome: 3-Day Beginner's Guide to Rome; and Tuscany: Slow Travel through the Tuscan Hill Towns.
This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Italy.