From Edinburgh to Inverness: Road Trip through Scotland

I'm always hesitant to commit to any ticketed activities on the first day of any trip, in case of flight delays or jet lag, so I like to rely on a walking tour and activities that you can book once you've landed. This walk in particular is easy and not long, so it's great for a first day.

For your first day in Edinburgh, I would start at Scott Monument, dedicated to Sir Walter Scott, the great Scottish novelist. While they do sell tickets to see it from a viewing platform, I don't think it's necessary to purchase - you can just admire it from the street.

From there, you can take an amble through Prince Gardens, making sure to stop at Ross Fountain, which dates to 1862 and sits in a stunning position in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle.

Next, make your way to Victoria Street, perhaps the city's most famous (and lovely) street, also said to be the inspiration for Harry Potter's Diagon Alley. You could pop into the Writers Museum on your way, an homage to Scotland's great poets. Once you get to Victoria Street, browse through the quaint shops (there is lots to be found for the HP enthusiast here - the shop "Museum Context" being the best of the offerings).

Finally, walk to nearby Lawnmarket, a nearby area on Edinburgh's Royal Mile. Here you can catch the "Ghost Bus Tour." While some people may bristle at the idea of a city bus tour, this particular one is my secret hack for Edinburgh - 10/10 would recommend! You'll get the lay of the city, learn some of its spooky history, and have a good laugh while you're at it. And it's a nice break for jet-lagged feet after a good walk.

One thing to note - if you do plan on doing this on your first day, book the tickets once you land. It fills up.

For a first-day dinner in the area, my top choice is Maker's Mash Bar. It's Scottish food done right, sourcing from local Scottish food artisans, catering to all dietary restrictions, and frankly just delicious. Book ahead online to guarantee a spot, and note that they close at 8:30pm on weekdays.

You've gotten a great introduction to the city, you've gotten some good sleep, and hopefully you're ready for a bit of a wee hike (n/b: it's not necessarily wee once you get close to the top, but you can stop and wait for your party like I did!).

Arthur's Seat is an ancient volcano (don't worry, it's extinct) that reaches 823 ft above sea levels, and offers breathtaking views of the city. The Scots call it a hill, and it is pretty easy walking most of the way. You can start your ascent outside the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the base of the Royal Mile. Up and back can take anywhere from 1-2 hours, depending on your pace. Truly, no trip to Edinburgh is complete without a visit to Arthur's Seat.

After your trip to the top and back again, consider a stop for lunch at Loudons New Waverly (booking ahead recommended if you're going at peak lunch hours or in high tourist season). Delicious, family-friendly, top quality with something for everyone.

After lunch, the National Museum of Scotland is the perfect place to spend the afternoon. There are wonderful interactive galleries for kids, but my personal favorite are the Scottish Galleries.

A visit to the castle is the perfect way to start your last day in Edinburgh. It's a walk through history (the audioguides are great), an amazing view of the city, and you get to see a giant cannon! There’s also a nice cafeteria at the castle where you can enjoy lunch.

In the afternoon, as you wind your way down from the castle, visit the Real Mary Kings Close for a 1-hour guided tour. A “close” refers to an alley, and here below the Royal Mile you’ll find the Real Mary Kings Close, Edinburgh’s only preserved 17th-century street. It’s a warren of alleyways and homes, and the museum executes the trip back in time perfectly, introducing you to the lives of the 17th-century residents who lived here.

Note: You’ll want to book timed entry tickets to both of these attractions a minimum of one day in advance - they both fill up quickly.

Pick up your rental car, orient yourself to driving on the other side of the road (and the car!), and head to Ft William for the night. It's less than a 4-hour drive in total, and The Real Food Cafe is a perfect lunch spot on your drive (they even have Gluten Free fish & chips!).

After lunch, but before Ft William, you can stop Glencoe Lochan and/or Inchree Waterfalls for some beautiful nature walks.

We had a lovely overnight in Fort William at the Nevis Bank Inn, but if you’re up for some luxury, check out the Inverlochy Castle Hotel, deemed the finest country house hotel in Scotland, for some proper castle pampering.

You can buy tickets to board the famous Hogwarts Express, but beware that it sells out ages in advance; the interior does not look like the Hogwarts Express, AND it's a train trip to one location and back again. There is something to be said for that experience, however, my family opted to view it from the ground, which we found just as exciting. The train crosses the viaduct around 10:45/11am, so aim to get to the car park no later than 10 if possible. The return crossing is sometime between 1:20-1:40pm.

Park at the Glenfinnan Visitor’s Center, about a 30-minute drive from Ft. William (if it's full, you will see other car parks nearby), then follow the other tourists on a walk to procure a great viewing spot, and wait for the train.

Now it's time to drive to the Inner Hebrides - the Isle of Skye, to be exact, where you can opt to stay in Portree, the island’s main town, or a bit further afield at a place like Juniper House Hotel, a lovely B&B with stunning water views.

Spend the morning exploring the quaint town of Portree, then head to the top of the Isle of Skye (beware, the drive is not for the faint of heart), to check out the Skye Museum of Island Life, where you’ll glimpse back in time (and glimpse some strange wax figures) to see what life on the island has been like through the centuries.

If island history and borderline creepy wax figures aren’t your thing (I happen to enjoy both), you can consider spending the morning hiking to the Old Man of Storr, probably the island’s most famous landmark, a large pinnacle of rock that can be seen from miles away.

In the afternoon, I recommend a visit to the Fairy Glen, near Uig. The walk through the rolling hills and magical landscape can be as easy as you’d like it to be, so it's a great walk with kids, and you can take as long or as short of a time as you’d like in the Glen.

If you’re a Scotch fan, you might consider incorporating a visit to the Talisker Distillery, located on the western side of the island.

Note: It's possible to spend days on Skye, exploring the resplendent nature. If you are an avid hiker or nature lover, you might consider adding a day to your stay on Skye and visiting either the Fairy Pools, or the Quiraing.

The Fairy Pools are stunning, crystal-clear pools and gushing waterfalls nestled on the northern slope of the Black Cullin mountain range, an area that holds a long history of clan battles and fairy folklore (and the Talker Distillery is not too far away!).

The Quiraing is a somewhat arduous, longer loop that takes you through high cliffs, plateaus and peaks. A comprehensive list of hikes on the island can be found here, should you want to extend your time for more outdoor activity.

First stop of the day is Eileen Donan Castle. You’re really in the Highlands now! You’ll learn about the history of the area dating back to the 6th century, about its role in the famous Jacobite uprisings, and about the MacRae family, who are still Constables of the castle today, after four generations.

Now it's time to drive to the cultural capitol of the Highlands, Inverness. Along your way, make sure to look out for Highland “coos” (cows!), the famous shaggy (often) brown cows that are a hallmark of the highlands.

Once settled in Inverness, head out for a walk through the city center, making sure to stop at the famous Leaky's Bookshop.

The Clava Cairns are the remnants of a 4,000-year-old burial site. It's a quick stop, but worthwhile to see some prehistoric Bronze Age sights.

After the Cairns, head to Culloden Battlefield, where the final Jacobite Uprising came to a bloody end in 1746. The Visitor’s Centre is fantastic, but even more so is the guided tour. The entire experience is a truly engaging history lesson and a walk through the actual battlefield, where you can almost feel the souls of the departed on the walk with you.

Obviously, no trip to Inverness is complete without an attempt to spot Nessie! Whether or not you succeed, you’ll have spent a morning on the banks of the loch and walking through the surrounding woods, taking in all of its beauty. You can take a guided tour, or park in a local car park and take it on yourself (quite easy to do).

If you are not flying out of Inverness, you could consider taking the overnight Caldonian Sleeper to London, and continuing your trip from there.