Curator’s statement
The best time to visit Milan is in November. Temperature is down from the oppressive summer heat, and the stylish Milanese are out & about rocking their Fall attire. The city is starting to feel festive in anticipation of the coming Holiday Season. A trip to Milan in the Fall is still an insider's secret.
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Things to do in Milan
Explore the Bohemian-chic Brera district
Just a stone's throw from the Duomo & La Scala Opera House, the area is home to the Pinacoteca Museum, local boutiques, restaurants & cafes.
Rinascente Department Store
I always make it a point to stop by Rinascente to check out the Basement Design Market & 7/F Food Hall. The buying team at Rinascente ensures that they always highlight the newest & best of "Made in Italy" products.
Fondazione Prada
During my trip to Milan this November, I was able to book tickets for Wes Anderson's "Asteroid City" exhibit. Well worth it. Best to schedule a noon slot, to then have lunch at either bar Luce or Torre Restaurant.
A post-lunch "passeggiata" (stroll) through the peaceful oasis Giardini Indro Montanelli
Adjacent to Brera & Porta Venezia, I enjoy sitting on a bench by the fountain of Palazzo Dugnani & just watching the world go by.
Retail Therapy
The Milanese embody the Italian mantra "la bella figura" (beautiful appearance). The "in the know" retailers that keep them kitted out are Aspesi, Daniel Craig's favorite Massimo Alba & Antonia Milano, who recently opened new locations "per Donna e Uomo" at the Portrait Hotel Milano.
Take a walk through the up & coming neighborhood of Corso Porta di Ticinese
Start at the ancient Porta & make your way down to the buzzing Navigli District (Canal Zone). Corso Porta di Ticinese is lined with cool shops like Carhartt WIP and restaurants such as Pasta d' Autore & San Lorenzo Osteria. Time your walk for around 6pm, so you can enjoy an aperitivo at a lively Navigli bar.
San Siro Stadium
San Siro is legendary in Milan as the home of its two rival football teams, ACMilan & InterMilan. As an ACMilan fan, the next best thing to attending a match at the stadium would be to take a guided tour there, with full access to the museum, locker rooms & pitch. There is also a retail store onsite, in the event that you would like to buy that Christian Pulisic jersey.
Book a day trip via private guided tour to Genoa & Portofino
Check the weather forecast prior to ensure that the sun will be shining, to enjoy the Italian Riviera's ambiance & vistas.
Places to eat & drink in Milan
No trip to Milan is complete for me without having lunch at Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone. This is not a vegan's paradise as they specialize in Nothern Italian favorites like salumi & cotoletta ala Milanese. Ask to be seated in the courtyard during lunch, as this is the hangout for Milanese tycoons & their wives who shop at the nearby Via Montenapoleone. Great people watching. Cap off the meal with a shot or two of their aged grappa.
2. Pasticceria Cova: After having lunch at Il Salumaio, I usually head over to Cova 1817 for dessert, specifically their Sacher Torte. Cova was purchased several years ago by LVMH, but it still manages to maintain that classic, Milanese old-school & traditional vibe.
3. Dinner at Vest Fiori Chiari: Vesta opened over a year ago in Brera & is now a local "go to" spot for special occasion dinners. Very sleekly clad in Tuscan Travertine, its specialty is seafood. The platters & pastas with lobster, shrimp & oysters are phenomenal. Walk-ins are allowed at the bar, but I suggest booking a reservation for dinner.
4. Weekend brunch at Radetzky Cafe: Milan, like the rest of Europe, is catching up to the concept of "brunch". Radetzky has several complete brunch menus available. Nothing more glorious to do than sit on their terrace on a weekend morning, with your espresso, eggs, pancetta, toast & a glass (or two) of prosecco.
5. Il Mercato Centrale: The groovy Il Mercato at the Milan Central Station is another favorite of mine as it houses a "curated" assortment of stalls under one roof; highlighting the greatest hits of Italian regional cuisine. A couple of stalls that I go to regularly are Giacomo Trapani, for Lampredotto & the creamiest Gelato at Riccardo Ronchi.
6. Panzerotto at Luini: Right behind the Duomo is this classic bakery that has been selling its panzerrotti since 1888. The must-order here is the mozzarella & tomato panzerotto. The line is always long but moves quickly.
7. Classic Negroni at Camparino Galleria: Another Milano personal tradition is popping into Camparino Galleria for a classic Negroni. Nothing better than standing at the bar and watching a white-jacketed bartender mix your drink. Camparino is regularly on the "World's best Bars List".
8. Sunset Aperitivo at Ceresio 7: Nothing better after a day of moving around Milano than meeting up with friends for sunset aperitivo at Ceresio 7. Its rooftop bar with outdoor pool provides sweeping views of the Cimeterio Monumentale & "new" Milan skyline. They have a great assortment of bourbons, so I always order a good mixed Old Fashioned.
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Peter Alejandro
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Milan.