Curator’s statement
Scotland is a country of breathtaking, majestic landscapes that look stunning in photos but still pale in comparison to seeing it in real life. Filled with historical monuments and ruins, from wildlife to stunning vistas, there’s a sight to see at every turn. This itinerary can also easily be expanded to include stopovers in such cities as Glasgow and Inverness, or even in the Shetland Islands, Orkney Islands or the Hebrides.
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Day 1: Walking tour of Edinburgh
This itinerary is assuming you arrive the day/night before.
Head to The Edinburgh Larder for breakfast before doing a free walking tour around Edinburgh. There are many companies, but I have used and would recommend Sandeman’s New Europe (they operate in dozens of cities across the world too). You’ll see the major attractions of The Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle, St Giles’ Cathedral and so many more.
In the afternoon, check out the National Museum of Scotland. Their collections span Scottish antiquities, culture and history, and the best part is that entrance is free!
For dinner, head to Noto – a small plates diner in the heart of Edinburgh. They’re also known for the wine and cocktail collection, but I’d suggest a pub crawl after dinner! You’re in the perfect area with some of the best pubs in town: The Jolly Judge, The Bow Bar, The Last Drop.
Day 2: Explore more of Edinburgh
Wake up early and climb up Arthur's Seat at dawn to catch the beautiful sunrise! Head over to nearby Calton Hill afterward for more views and its many monuments.
For breakfast, head to Southern Cross Cafe for strong coffee, scrumptious cakes & a full English breakfast.
If you’re in the mood for another museum, check out the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. But if you’re up for another walking tour, take one of the city’s many available ghost tours (some are available in the afternoon as well as the evening).
For dinner, check out one of the area’s Michelin-starred restaurants: The Kitchin or Timberyard. Just remember to pack your backs to check out early the next morning for your drive to the Isle of Skye!
Day 3: Drive to the Isle of Skye
Pick up your rental car, either in the city center or at the airport (if the latter, keep in mind it’s a 30 minute train ride away).
This route will take you north to the A9, A82 and A86, just south of the Cairngorms National Park through the Highlands of Scotland. Along the way, you’ll see and can stop at such sites as (in order from South to North): St John’s Kirk in Perth (a 15th century church), Scone Palace (the crowning place of Scottish kinds), Dunfallandy Stone (one of the finest surviving Pictish stones), Blair Castle & Gardens (the ancestral home of Clan Murray), the geographical center of Scotland, Allt na Criche (a beautiful scenic spot along Loch Ness), Urquhart Castle (castle ruins along Loch Ness that featured prominently in the Scots' struggle for independence), and the picturesque Eilean Donan Castle.
You’ll cross over onto the Isle of Skye and see some stunning landscapes as the road winds up the mountains into the heart of the island. After a long day, check in to your hotel and get some rest!
Day 4: Drive North
Head into the main town of Portree and grab breakfast at Cafe Arriba, a low-key, colorful breakfast spot. Next you’ll drive north to explore the northern part of the island.
The sites you’ll see and can stop at include: the Old Man of Storr (famed from many movies & landscape photos of the island), Kilt Rock & Mealt Falls (a near 300 foot tall rock & waterfall), Staffin Bay (where you can see dinosaur footprints at low tide in the rocks), the ruins of Duntulm Castle (long held by the Clan MacDonald), the Cave of Gold (named after the legend of warriors hiding gold with a monster guarding their treasure here!), the enchanting Fairy Glen, the standing Pictish stones of Kensaleyre & Clach Ard, Dun Beag Broch (an Iron Age round stone tower), Dunvegan Castle (the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland by the Clan MacLeod), and Neist Point Lighthouse (one of the most famous lighthouses in the world).
End your day at the welcoming, cozy Michelin-starred Loch Bay restaurant for dinner.
Day 5: Explore South
Start your day at the charming Café Cùil for breakfast/brunch before exploring the southern part of the Isle of Skye.
The sites you’ll see and can stop at include: Talisker Bay (from the beach you’ll also be able to catch a glimpse of MacLeod’s Maidens), you can even stop for a whiskey tasting & tour at the famed Talisker Bay Distillery, Eas Mor waterfall, the Carbost Burn waterfall, the magical Fairy Pools, and walk along the Coire Lagan.
You’ll then drive to the southernmost outcrop of the island to see three castles: Dunscaith (ruins called the “Fortress of Shadows", and home to the legendary warrior maiden Scáthach), Knock Castle (also called Caisteal Chamuis, this is the former stronghold to the MacDonalds) and Armadale Castle & Gardens (a ruined country house also formerly home to the MacDonalds).
To end the day, head up to the picturesque fishing village of Elgol. If you’re lucky enough to be here during low tide, venture out to Prince Charlie's Cave. End the day at Michelin Guide restaurant Coruisk House.
Day 6: Drive back to Edinburgh
Get up bright and early for a LONG drive back to Edinburgh. There are tons of cafes & coffee shops along the way out of the Isle of Skye: the Coffee Bothy, Lean To Coffee and Hector’s Bothy.
Head south via the general route of A87 and A82. The sites you’ll see and can stop at include: Glenfinnan Viaduct (a picturesque 19th century railway viaduct), Glencoe (Scotland’s most historic glen), Castle Stalker (a stunning four-story castle tower along Loch Laich), the fishing village of Oban (where you can stop for lunch at the Waterfront Fishouse for some fish and chips), Kilchurn Castle (15th-century castle ruins along Loch Awe), Inveraray Castle (an 18th-century Gothic Revival country house) and Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park (head to Tarbet for a cruise around the lake and views of Ben Lomond).
You’ll head through Glasgow on your way back to Edinburgh and can stop (extend your trip an extra day or two to spend in the city!) or head straight to Edinburgh. I’d suggest staying at a hotel at the airport for convenience before you fly home the next day.
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Scotland. Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out my guide, Acapulco: Mexico’s Forgotten Beach Paradise.