4 Perfect Days in Puglia (& Matera)

Contrary to popular belief (or perhaps just my own wrong assumptions, because it’s only an hour from Bari airport), Matera is not in Puglia, but Basilicata.

The next salient fact is that this city is ancient.

It’s one of the oldest cities in the entire world, having been continuously inhabited since prehistoric times. So it being named the European Capital of Culture in 2019 is completely deserved.

I’m reminded of Jerusalem from certain vantage points, and, in fact, you can still sleep in caves here. The Sassi di Matera are two districts that encompass "one of the most unique landscapes in Europe" (Fodors) and a gorgeous hotel like SEXTANTIO LE GROTTE DELLA CIVITA offers a modern 4-star experience.

And let me tell you, I fully comprehend and appreciate the natural cooling system the caves provide.

Once arrived, we were much too early to check in, so we sought shelter from the blistering heat at Ristorante Oi Mari for a well-timed lunch. Which was much better than our dinner experience, so I’ll spare you the drama and send you to Gahve Cafe for an easy morning. We loved the soy cappuccinos paired with croissants and a serene piazza.

Travel Note: I would really love to return to Matera in Fall or Spring weather because my perfect day would start with an early hike through the lush quarry that surrounds the city.

Next stop was Francavilla Fontana to stay in a Trulli house, which was romantically remote and a dream location for a honeymoon, if you ask me.

On this first evening, we decided to drive to Ostuni. I have to caution that the “white city” has a bit of a parking problem in the high season. Time your visit well.

Leaving our rental in some random field, we made our way up and enjoyed an evening aperitivi (and the view) at Avenida 40 Cafe before strolling into the white city’s vibrant centre for dinner at Osteria La Sparacima.

We were up and out the next day to drive an hour to a quiet cove — Calette del Capitolo in Monopoli. Beautiful seaside situation and barely any tourists. Win.

Lunch was only a short drive away in Savelletri and our seafood pastas at La Taverna di Umberto did not disappoint.

Since so many Fora Advisors have been buzzing about the ultra-elegant BORGO EGNAZIA, we figured we’d stop in for a quick look around and a drink. And, from what I saw, this property delivers on all the 5-Stars and then some. If you're looking for luxury, this place is ground zero. After just an hour in the Egnazia atmosphere, my husband exclaimed (after seeming rather grumpy at the price of his beer), "I'm so relaxed!"

A word to the wise though… Best to make a reservation for lunch or dinner at one of their restaurants, because security is tight here.

After a full day, we decided to shop at the market for dinner supplies and have a quiet, cooked dinner in our trulli.

We had a lovely night in, but this is where I want to mention that the locals drive like recklessly. Please just note this for your own safety and thank me later.

This might be going too far, but foodies will appreciate the effort… Zio Pasquale makes the best, hands-down the best, taralli you will ever taste. We discovered the brand in an Italian shop in Valencia and we are obsessed.

Incredibly, their factory was less than a 15-minute drive from where we were staying in Puglia! My husband, who is Italian, had a great chat with the owner and his mum, who makes sure every batch is perfetto.

Yes, Polignano a Mare was on our route back to Bari and we stopped there for a swim and lunch. My honest impression? It is obscenely overcrowded in the summer… To the point that it’s not enjoyable. Go early summer, or late September/early October.

Our last night had us staying at 200 Rooms & Terrace in Bari. We loved our huge room!

This quick trip was capped off with a stroll through the old town, where we purchased a little pumo for good luck and settled on an aperitivo-style dinner at Ciclatera Sotto Il Mare.