Curator’s statement
New Zealand is packed with breathtaking beauty, death-defying adventure and charming whimsy. I've visited three times, and each has been extraordinary. Here's a collection of the top highlights in three weeks across both the North and South Islands.
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Days 1-3: Adventurous arrival

Rafting over Tutea Falls (that's me in the green helmet!)
After arriving into Auckland and getting your bearings, head toward Rotorua for your choice of exploration:
Go rafting on a grade 5 ride down the Kaituna River, famed for the 23-foot Tutea Falls, touted as the highest commercially rafted waterfall in the world. Yes, you will likely fall out, as we did, but in a good way.
Check out the National Kiwi Hatchery, the largest in the world. Pay the extra to go behind-the-scenes--you don't get to hold the kiwis, but you will get an intimate tour with the baby kiwis.
Visit one of the handful of geothermal parks with bubbling geysers and mud pools, while also learning about Māori culture.
Finally, consider going "zorbing," a New Zealand specialty: you're put into a giant inflatable ball and rolled downhill, like a hamster. (Not for me, but maybe you'd like it!)
Days 4-5: Matamata, the home of Hobbiton

Bilbo and Frodo's Bag End
We're headed to Matamata, the home of Hobbiton.
You would have gotten your tickets to the evening banquet well ahead of time, in order to tour the darling village after hours. You will gawk at Bag End, go into an actual Hobbit hole, then dine like a Hobbit in the Green Dragon Inn. The serenity of Hobbiton lit up at night beneath the stars is magical.
With your free time, visit nearby Waitomo Caves, riding a boat through its famed glowworm grotto.
Days 6-7: Hiking Mt Doom

The three mountains after the Tongariro Crossing
Head south to Lake Taupo, your base for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, one of the top day hikes in the world, featuring the Lord of the Rings' Mount Doom.
You will have pre-arranged transportation to and from the trailhead for this fabulous hike. You can expect the hike to take up to 10 hours for nearly 14 miles with a lot of elevation gain. Pack appropriately as the weather may change unexpectedly. While you should heed warning signs about conditions, both times I did this, fog/drizzle turned into blue skies at the top.
On a clear day, you'll be able to see Mt. Ruapehu at 9,177 feet with year-round snow, Mt. Ngauruhoe aka Mt. Doom at 7,516 feet and Mt. Tongariro at 6,490 feet.
Days 8-10: Queenstown adventures

Climb waterfalls with Wildwire's via Ferrata
After your hike, fly to Queenstown on the South Island, where even more adventures abound. (Direct flights are available from Auckland or Wellington, while a connecting flight is offered from Taupo.)
From simple hikes up and around town to kayaking and boating, here are my favorite Queenstown activities:
Retrace Frodo's footsteps with a Lord of the Rings tour to Middle Earth. In Glenorchy, you'll explore Paradise, the Dart River Valley and Mt Aspiring National Park while admiring Peter Jackson's vision. You can also hike here or jet-boat down the river.
Try out Wildwire's via Ferrata, rising 1,000 feet next to two waterfalls, with precarious suspension bridges and tightropes. Via Ferrata means iron path — these are cabled routes built into cliffs, allowing you to climb like a mountaineer while safely and constantly latched. It is so much fun!
Love cherries? Pick your own farms are nearby in Cromwell, featuring our favorite Rainiers or "yellow" cherries. The season runs from November–January.
Take a scenic plane ride over the stunning Southern Alps. We flew with True South Flights over to Mount Cook and Tasman Glacier on a crystal clear day. Other air-borne options include glacier landings, helicopters and more.
Jump out of an airplane with Skydive Southern Alps, "the most scenic tandem skydive experience on earth” - which it was! Attached to your flight master, you'll deliberately leave a perfectly good airplane and go into free fall for about 45 seconds. Suddenly your parachute is released and you float above the dazzling scenery all around you.
Days 11-12: Milford Sound

Gorgeous Milford Sound waterfall
Head over to the iconic Milford Sound. You could make it a very long day trip, but better to stay overnight in sweet Te Anau. We love the Dunluce Boutique. Be sure to dine at Redcliff.
There are a variety of cruises in Milford Sound to admire its many peaks and waterfalls. Try to go early or late to avoid the crowds.
Better yet, take an overnight cruise aboard the Fiordland Jewel to enjoy the Sound in solitude while kayaking or soaking in the hot tub.
Days 13-16: Take a great walk

Clinton Canyon on the 3-day Milford Track hike
New Zealand has cleverly marketed 11 Great Walks. These are multi-day hikes tramping through woods, beaches and mountains, with basic huts along the way for overnights. Daily access is limited and the top hikes are so popular the huts sell out in minutes after going live online.
We managed to book the Kepler Track in 2019 and were enraptured by the spectacular Lord-of-the-Rings scenery, especially the second day along the ridge. The dorm-style huts were so basic, we bypassed our third hut and finished the 34 miles in three days instead of four.
In 2023, we were unable to book the Milford Track ourselves and signed up with Ultimate Hikes. In addition to gaining access to the hike, we reveled in hot showers, real beds, real food and lighter loads. In total, it was 34 miles over three days through three beautiful mountain passes before concluding at Milford Sound. Bonus: Ultimate Hikes guests end up at Mitre Peak Lodge with incredible views of the Sound.
Days 17-19: Glacier bound

Graceful ice hiking at Fox Glacier (yep, that's me)
It's back to Queenstown, from where you'll drive to Franz Josef for your glacier adventure. (Note: not a one day jaunt!)
So check out the West Coast Wildlife Center. Make sure to get the VIP backstage pass, which will include a tour of the kiwi incubation and rearing rooms, where you will see chicks in red-heated cages.
The next day, take a heli-hike tour to Franz Josef or Fox glaciers. You'll be equipped with everything you need, then enjoy a breathtaking helicopter ride over the glacier, crevices and waterfalls.
Once on the sea of ice, guides forge or refresh promising routes, hammering in ice screws and threading rope for your harnesses. You'll use that along with your ice picks and crampons to navigate delicate ridges of ice, cross what seem like gaping crevasses and seek out blue caves.
Days 20-21: Swim with dolphins

Intimate encounters swimming with dolphins in Kaikoura
We're in the final stretch of your epic adventure. Today is a long drive over to Kaikoura on the East Coast. Check out the seal colony, then enjoy the luscious seafood chowder at the Pier Hotel.
Your last adventure of this trip is swimming with dolphins with Dolphin Encounter Kaikoura. Rather than shy away when you approach, the lively resident pod of dusky dolphins will swim around you.
This tour is obviously very weather dependent. Make sure you feel comfortable enough to go into the ocean once you know the conditions. But you can also enjoy the dolphins from the boat rather than swimming.
Various species of whales can also be spotted here.
Bonus: Dolphin Encounter Kaikoura has a fabulous cafe — try the French toast, salmon feta filo and chai latte.
Before flying home from Christchurch, stay at idyllic Ribbonwood Country House.
You'll leave with so many unbelievable memories, and begin planning your next trip to New Zealand.
Need to know
Realistically, this is more of a four-week holiday! When you've gone around the world, make the most of your time. Don't forget: go during their summer, which is our winter.

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Mei-Mei Kirk

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