Curator’s statement
Venice is a place like no other. But with its narrow streets, it doesn’t take many people to make the place feel overrun. Add some heat and humidity, and Venice can be downright unpleasant. In January, however, after the holiday crowds have left, Venice’s true magic and beauty are revealed. As more and more people discover the pleasure and wisdom of a January visit, it will still be busy enough, but it will feel more like your own, too. The temperatures are perfect for walking, which is the only way to really explore the city, and the sun often shines. We visit every January, and most days we’re able to have lunch in the sun canal side. Visit Venice in January and discover perhaps the best Venice for yourself.
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Where to stay in Venice
The Gritti Palace, A Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice
Immerse yourself in Venetian luxury at this iconic hotel, where opulent charm, exquisite accommodations and impeccable service come together for an unforgettable stay in the heart of Venice.
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$100 food / beverage or spa credit.
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Breakfast daily.
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Upgrade & extended check-in/out whenever possible.
Aman Venice
Luxury property set in a 16th-century palace with elegant rooms near the Grand Canal.
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$100 food / beverage credit.
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Breakfast daily.
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Upgrade & extended check-in/out whenever possible.
Cipriani, A Belmond Hotel, Venice
This glamorous Giudecca Island icon is prized for its lagoon views, famed cocktail bar, enchanting gardens and pool.
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$100 food / beverage credit.
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Breakfast daily.
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Upgrade & extended check-in/out whenever possible.
The St. Regis Venice
Featuring idyllic views of the Grand Canal, this ultra-luxe Venetian-style hotel features beautifully appointed rooms plus a bar and two restaurants.
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$100 hotel / resort credit.
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Breakfast daily.
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Upgrade & extended check-in/out whenever possible.
Rosa Salva
Immerse yourself in Venetian charm and elegance at Rosa Salva Hotel, where historic allure meets modern comfort in the heart of Venice.
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Things to do in Venice
Peggy Guggenheim Collection: Peggy was one of modern art’s first and foremost champions. Hers is a remarkable, world-class collection intimately presented in her former home, a “half-built” palazzo on the Grand Canal.
Walk: Or as the French might say, become a flâneur. One of the best things to do in Venice is wander. The entire city is easily explorable on foot. Just set out, take in its beauty and history, and see where the day takes you. The more residential neighborhoods, like Castello, Cannaregio and Giudecca are particularly relaxing.
Shop: Like most major cities, many of the global brands have a presence, but seek out some of the independents. There’s a wonderful printer, for instance, Gianni Basso, whom we have been going to for years; Ottica Carraro, for eyeglasses and sunglasses; and Jesurum, for linens.
Jewish Ghetto and Museum: With a fascinating history, the Ghetto is a particularly interesting part of the city. The museum tours provide access to the historic Spanish, Italian and Levantine synagogues.
Cemetery San Michele: An island unto itself, San Michele is a beautiful cemetery where several notables are buried, including Igor Stravinsky, Ezra Pound and Sergei Diaghilev. With modern additions by the architect David Chipperfield, it’s a lovely spot for walking and contemplating.
Scuola Grande di San Rocco: Go for its spectacular Tintorettos, some of his finest.
Teatro La Fenice: Tour Venice’s beautiful opera house, rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in 1996, and catch a performance, if you can. You can read John Berendt’s The City of Falling Angels (2005) if you’d like to learn more about the fire and its aftermath.
Church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli: There are numerous churches worth visiting in Venice, but it’s easy to miss this jewel box. This early Renaissance church is highly recommended.
Places to eat & drink in Venice
Pasticceria Tonolo: A wonderful, bustling, authentic bakery where you can saddle up to the bar for a coffee and, in January, a frittelle. They are filled, deep-fried, sugar-coated pastries typically made for Carnivale. I recommend more than one!
Osteria La Zucca: Perhaps my favorite restaurant in Venice, you will need to book. La Zucca is a small, cozy, canalside restaurant with exceptional food and service. Ask for a table with a window on the canal.
Bacareto da Lele: The simplest of bars, where you stand canalside with your drink and, if you like, nibbles.
Harry's Bar: Perhaps one of my more controversial recommendations, but as with many things, you have to do the place right! I’m surprised by how many people have such strong negative views of Harry’s Bar, often virtually, sometimes literally sight unseen, simply labeling it a “tourist trap.” If your itinerary permits, go for Saturday or, preferably, Sunday lunch. Regardless of when you go, insist when making your reservation (and again once you arrive, if necessary) that your table be on the ground floor. That is where the action is. If it’s not on the ground floor, don’t go. It’s not an inexpensive place, but every one of our Sunday lunches has been fantastic—delicious food, exceptional service and interesting people, including some famous ones, in a historic room. It’s the original and an institution.
Ristorante Ai Barbacani: An atmospheric, comfortable restaurant with wonderful food and service.
Torrefazione Cannaregio: You can smell the place’s terrific coffee in the distance. It’s a simple place that does coffee exceptionally well.
Ristorante Levante: Levante is a more recent discovery. I've been going to Venice at least once a year, often more, for about 30 years. If the sun is out, and it’s not too cold, we'll often go here for lunch a couple of times per trip. Its outdoor tables are along a canal, and they get the midday sun, so it’s a perfect place for outdoor dining. And the food and service are great, too!
Grand Canal Restaurant: Just opposite Harry’s Bar and facing Santa Maria Della Salute. The terrace at this restaurant is wonderful for its views and a coffee in the sun.
Vini da Arturo: A tiny, cozy restaurant with soul—and a discreet celebrity following. Known for its meat and pasta dishes and for not serving seafood!
Rosa Salva: With a few locations and popular with locals, the Rosa Salva near Santi Giovanni e Paolo is particularly lovely for a morning coffee or tea and pastry.
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Travel Advisor
Ronald Balzan
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Venice.