Venice in January: Magical and Perhaps the Best Time to Visit

Peggy Guggenheim Collection: Peggy was one of modern art’s first and foremost champions. Hers is a remarkable, world-class collection intimately presented in her former home, a “half-built” palazzo on the Grand Canal.

Walk: Or as the French might say, become a flâneur. One of the best things to do in Venice is wander. The entire city is easily explorable on foot. Just set out, take in its beauty and history, and see where the day takes you. The more residential neighborhoods, like Castello, Cannaregio and Giudecca are particularly relaxing.

Shop: Like most major cities, many of the global brands have a presence, but seek out some of the independents. There’s a wonderful printer, for instance, Gianni Basso, whom we have been going to for years; Ottica Carraro, for eyeglasses and sunglasses; and Jesurum, for linens.

Jewish Ghetto and Museum: With a fascinating history, the Ghetto is a particularly interesting part of the city. The museum tours provide access to the historic Spanish, Italian and Levantine synagogues.

Cemetery San Michele: An island unto itself, San Michele is a beautiful cemetery where several notables are buried, including Igor Stravinsky, Ezra Pound and Sergei Diaghilev. With modern additions by the architect David Chipperfield, it’s a lovely spot for walking and contemplating.

Scuola Grande di San Rocco: Go for its spectacular Tintorettos, some of his finest.

Teatro La Fenice: Tour Venice’s beautiful opera house, rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in 1996, and catch a performance, if you can. You can read John Berendt’s The City of Falling Angels (2005) if you’d like to learn more about the fire and its aftermath.

Church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli: There are numerous churches worth visiting in Venice, but it’s easy to miss this jewel box. This early Renaissance church is highly recommended.

Pasticceria Tonolo: A wonderful, bustling, authentic bakery where you can saddle up to the bar for a coffee and, in January, a frittelle. They are filled, deep-fried, sugar-coated pastries typically made for Carnivale. I recommend more than one!

Osteria La Zucca: Perhaps my favorite restaurant in Venice, you will need to book. La Zucca is a small, cozy, canalside restaurant with exceptional food and service. Ask for a table with a window on the canal.

Bacareto da Lele: The simplest of bars, where you stand canalside with your drink and, if you like, nibbles.

Harry's Bar: Perhaps one of my more controversial recommendations, but as with many things, you have to do the place right! I’m surprised by how many people have such strong negative views of Harry’s Bar, often virtually, sometimes literally sight unseen, simply labeling it a “tourist trap.” If your itinerary permits, go for Saturday or, preferably, Sunday lunch. Regardless of when you go, insist when making your reservation (and again once you arrive, if necessary) that your table be on the ground floor. That is where the action is. If it’s not on the ground floor, don’t go. It’s not an inexpensive place, but every one of our Sunday lunches has been fantastic—delicious food, exceptional service and interesting people, including some famous ones, in a historic room. It’s the original and an institution.

Ristorante Ai Barbacani: An atmospheric, comfortable restaurant with wonderful food and service.

Torrefazione Cannaregio: You can smell the place’s terrific coffee in the distance. It’s a simple place that does coffee exceptionally well.

Ristorante Levante: Levante is a more recent discovery. I've been going to Venice at least once a year, often more, for about 30 years. If the sun is out, and it’s not too cold, we'll often go here for lunch a couple of times per trip. Its outdoor tables are along a canal, and they get the midday sun, so it’s a perfect place for outdoor dining. And the food and service are great, too!

Grand Canal Restaurant: Just opposite Harry’s Bar and facing Santa Maria Della Salute. The terrace at this restaurant is wonderful for its views and a coffee in the sun.

Vini da Arturo: A tiny, cozy restaurant with soul—and a discreet celebrity following. Known for its meat and pasta dishes and for not serving seafood!

Rosa Salva: With a few locations and popular with locals, the Rosa Salva near Santi Giovanni e Paolo is particularly lovely for a morning coffee or tea and pastry.