A 14-Day Sailing Adventure Through the Stunning Seychelles

Today we arrive in Mahé and get transferred to the port, Eden Island, where we check in on the catamaran early in the afternoon. There’s a briefing and introduction to the crew by our skipper, Karl Heinz. In the evening, we dined at a restaurant in the harbor.

At 6 am, I’m awakened by the smell of coffee and the sound of Cat Stevens’ "Morning Has Broken." How wonderful... I’m so excited for the next two weeks. Our group consists of five: Margit, me, two skippers and Martin, our musician, who will create the most beautiful evening ambiance over the coming days. Today, we do a big grocery shop for the next two weeks. There is no need for fish, though, since we have two eager anglers on board! We set sail for our first overnight bay, where we were treated to dinner prepared by our crew. The evenings are magical — it gets dark early, and we enjoy our meals, share stories and listen to Martin play his guitar.

Today, we sail to Silhouette, an island that remains largely undeveloped for tourism. I soak in the natural beauty, feeling the wind rush past and I love taking the helm while our skipper explains the basics of navigation. The scenery was stunning, and we didn’t see a single other boat. We anchor, swim, grill, dance and sing — there couldn't be a more perfect way to end the day, right in the heart of the Seychelles’ island paradise.

The wind is coming in the perfect direction for us to sail to Bird Island today. Bird Island, true to its name, is a pristine sanctuary where thousands of birds nest. It’s also home to "Esmeralda," the world’s oldest known tortoise, who is said to be over 150 years old and weighs a massive 320 kg. On our way, the fishing rods come out for the first time and Karl Heinz and Helvin are competing to catch the biggest fish. It’s my first time witnessing fish being killed — a messy affair, and I can barely watch.

The waters here are particularly rich in yellowfin tuna, bonito, dorado, wahoo, sailfish and more. Along the edge of the Seychelles Plateau, the water depth drops to as much as 2,000 meters, creating a habitat for an incredible diversity of fish species. This provides excellent chances to encounter marlin or even larger trophy fish. In the evening, we anchor off the island and enjoy a fish curry — I've never tasted fish this fresh!

The next day, we set off for Praslin, the second-largest island in the Seychelles, heading to Anse Lazio, a stunning beach that is often ranked as one of the best in the world. This picturesque beach is known for its white sandy shores, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and is surrounded by lush green hills and towering granite boulders. It is an unforgettable place to stay overnight.

We enjoy our first snorkeling adventure, exploring vibrant coral reefs and encountering colorful fish and sea turtles. As the sun begins to set, we return to the boat and prepare for a delicious meal of fresh fish carpaccio caught and prepared by our chef de cuisine.

The next morning we get a taxi to go to the Vallee de Mai, an Unesco World Heritage site that features ancient palms and the mysterious coco de mer. The coco de mer is a unique palm tree found only in the Seychelles, on the islands of Praslin and Curieuse. It’s famous for producing the largest and heaviest seed in the world, shaped in a way that resembles human anatomy, which has made it a symbol of the Seychelles. The seeds can weigh up to 66 pounds (30 kg), and the trees themselves live for hundreds of years.

We spend the night in a beautiful bay and then sail to La Digue, where we’ll stay for the next two nights. This popular yet peaceful island is known for its relaxed pace, with locals using ox carts and bicycles as transport. The island's lush vegetation and postcard-perfect beaches framed by striking granite boulders are breathtaking. Starting from La Passe, we explore the island by bike, stopping to visit a plantation with an old oil mill and a copra station (where coconuts are processed). The highlight is "Anse Source d'Argent," famous from Bacardi ads, where we have fun and need water shoes to walk into the sea. "Anse" means bay or beach and refers to the scenic coastal areas on the islands. These granite formations create natural barriers, separating the open sea from calmer, shallower waters, forming natural pools perfect for swimming.

Our days start early, as the sun rises quickly and the heat sets in right away. After breakfast, we tidy up and, if near a town, take the dinghy to do any necessary shopping. Most days, we anchor and go snorkeling right after breakfast. Lunches are always deliciously prepared for us. On some days, we cover longer distances, like our trips to Bird Island or Fregate. At 11 am, it’s our regular "beer o’clock," and we have an "anchor beer" as soon as we settle in, and even a "fish beer" after a good catch. Today, we sail to Grand Soeur, anchor and enjoy a refreshing swim.

We decided on a longer journey to Frégate, a private island 50 km from Mahé. The beauty is indescribable, and I spend a long time swimming and exploring on land. However, the current is very strong, and the weather forecast predicts storms and rain. Both skippers agreed to make an overnight return to La Digue. The journey is quite rough, and I’m impressed by how confidently and skillfully Helvin, who lives in the Seychelles, navigates us safely into the harbor at night. Chapeau!

We sail back toward the main island of the Seychelles to spend the last few days cruising shorter distances. By now, we’re a well-coordinated team, and everyone knows their role. After breakfast, we usually go snorkeling and then enjoy a prepared lunch. We’ve caught so many fish that we had to freeze some, and it’s always a surprise to open the freezer and see a red snapper staring back! I’ve gotten quite good at snorkeling, and together with Margit, we’re capturing some beautiful underwater photos.

Our sailing adventure slowly comes to an end. We spent our last night in the harbor of Mahe and had a very authentic dinner in a Creole restaurant called "Marie Antoinette". Here, we enjoy a flavorful cuisine typical of the Seychelles, blending influences from Africa, Asia and Europe. We talk about the experiences we’ve shared, and after spending two intense weeks together on a catamaran, you develop a close bond with one another. I discovered so much about sailing — and even more about myself — on this journey. Farewell, Seychelles.